hjtrbo

No comment.

Whilst I wait for my boring head to turn up I got stuck into the flapper itself. Before I started, I removed the old flapper from the actuator arm to get some base measurements. Bunnings nail pincer to the rescue to remove the press fit lock collar. Started out with a bit of 63mm 316 that I had laying around. Heap of rough turning to get it to shape. And the finished 42mm flapper. Plenty of room. Could even go bigger if I bored the housing out a few mm more. I reckon a 42mm hole with 46mm flapper is easily possible. Would take the housing clearance out to 48mm to give 1mm clearance each side of the flapper. Shed is cleaned up. Thristy now, time for a beer.

Hope this might help someone avoid the die grinder butchery than can be achieved as demonstrated here with the quality workmanship on display from a 'Big Name' Melbourne workshop. First time I've ever ported a turbo so have taken some happy pics of the journey. Pulsar GTX3584RS. Default 32mm port with 38mm flapper. Not having that. CGC squeeze in a 38mm port with a 42mm flapper in that same(ish) housing. Challenge accepted. Carefully remove the wastegate actuator arm. Just plugged enough to break the welds. Need to save this piece to weld back on at the end of the job. With the actuator arm out of the way, the flap and shaft just slide out. Getting the roll pin out is a pain in the arse. I used a bit of heat to anneal it and then had at it with the drill bit. It eventually caught the drill bit and spun. Just used the vice grips to pry it up from there. Measure the sleeve height before it gets pressed out Now, getting that sleeve pressed out is a pain. That farker is in there tight. Heat is needed to get it to move. Only need to push it back enough to provide clearance to the port area. Crank it up in the vice as hard as you can with a couple of sockets, then heat around it evenly until the farker cracks loose and makes you need a new pair of undies. Centre the port up in the mill. Then realise you don’t have the right tool to continue. Farken c@nt. To be continued…

Fark that, better when dad chicken does it

Maybe a better way to put that question, If targeting x boost with y spring, assuming everything else being equal and correct, what are the symptoms of too little preload and too much preload. Scenarios: x =1 * y (I.e. boost 12 psi, spring 12psi) x = 2 * y (I.e. boost 24 psi, spring 12psi) x = 1.5 * y (I.e. boost 18 psi, spring 12psi)

How much to get yours rebuilt? Will be like brand new when they're done with it.

Hmm, the spreadsheet... Ok, good and bad news. Bad: It's highly likely that you'll need the TCM flashed. You'll know if it needs a flash if it goes straight into limp mode once all in and buttoned up. Good: Ford Service or any tuner with PCMTEC can do the flash if it needs it. What you're looking for: Anything turbo ZF from FG, FG Mk2, FG-X including FPV models, doesn't matter if ute or sedan. Doesn't matter if XR6T or F6. Anything ZF6HP26 from BF turbo, V8 or Territory turbo can still be made to work but you'll be up for extra costs to get the OS upgraded and perhaps some changes to torque converter or maybe even bell housing (unlikely) that I'm not sure about.

1: I remember reading a while back on the PCMTEC forum that if you go from BF to FG you have to send the TCM module away to get the OS updated to FG. Apparently only a handful of people can provide that type of service. It's not something the Ford dealer would do. 2: You can put your TCM from your FG box onto the BF box to avoid sending out the BF TCM for an OS update. But as you've got a milkshaked valve body amongst other things, you would need to send that out to be pulled apart and rebuilt. So there is an extra cost on top of buying the BF box either way you go. I'd keep looking for an FG box if I were you. I'll can tell you which box to look for so you don't get into limp mode when you install it. Post back a picture of your teartag, located on the A pillar drivers door. E.g.

I've got my F6 Garret GT3582R coming up for sale soon. Flapper mod done. Minus wastegate actuator. Made 18psi all the way to 5500rpm on 98 then dropped off a little after that. Core is on the way out but was running fine when removed. Pulsar 3582R Gen 2 CHRA core would work well. PM if interested. PULSAR Ford BA/BF XR6 3582R Drop-In Upgrade CHRA – Pulsar Turbos Australia

Yeah, I feel like there was opportunity for a lot of pain and heartache to have been avoided with the advice given earlier in this thread.

Can also loosen up the tcc lockup strategy for a bit of wheel spin fast spool fun. So many options 😁

Love a Collie. Bloody great dogs. Throw back pic to my 2 bozos. RIP

Good news then for the OP if it's a virgin PCM. Now just to find out if there is a tune in there???

If that is indeed true then I suggest the OP does some investigative work to determine if there is damage to the pistons ring lands, valves, piston tops etc etc...

Absolutely possible. Or completly fine. It all depends on if it was tuned or not. Need to find that out.

Based on recent experience... Pull the valve cover (easy) and have a look at the cams and rollers. Then look down the timing cover and see if a chunk of your timing chain guide on the exhaust side is missing. Check timing chain is tight.

Lol, feel for you brother. My wife doesn't get me but she knows enough now to turn a blind eye. Trust me, she gets her way alot so it works out 50/50 long term. I know it's only a badge but as I'm getting older and in my reflective opinion the BF F6 will be a top piece of Australian history. I'd love to get one and just hide it somewhere regardless of condition. #dreaming

Don't fix the oil leak. Sell the car and buy a late BF F6 with under 100,000km. It's a bloody trap alright. $40 -->> $14,000 Thanks for the feedback. Info is still hard to come by. There are snippets of gold around the place but it's hard work. Hoping the Barra thing takes off in the States as that will open up alot of info to the average Joe.

There is a lot of good hunches in this thread.

Thanks. Puffs is way better than mine. I can't afford what that lucky farker has done. I always thought the caltracs were WAY overpriced considering you can laser cut and weld sh*t up yourself pretty cheap. I prefer the ones that sit on top of the diff to keep them hidden. I plan to make my own. Will need to sit down and analyse the geometry.

I'll need a steady hand. So based on recent golf efforts I have a narrow window between my my 2nd and 7th Great Northern to be in my optimal period.

I have time and a carbide bur. Lets see if I can not nick the face when the bur grabs 🤭 Also have a small milling machine if that will make it easier?

Hey @bjc There sure has been a bit of work in the background. I pulled out the bottom end. That has seen better days so is off getting machined. Have ordered Nitto rods with CP Pistons +0.5mm, ACL bearings, full ARP. I got in touch with Pulsar and they are happy to take my 3582 CHRA back and credit it towards the GTX3584RS as I haven't taken it out of it's packing. There is a small restocking fee for them to accept back for a credit. Hoping to have that turn up shortly. Have being watching countless Barra build videos and have been talking with a GC. I've got the confidence to have a crack at the assembly myself. Powerhouse is doing all the machining and specialist assembly, but ring gaps and the glory work I'll do myself in the shed at home. Yes, have ordered the stock cams. I rarely turn the motor over past 6,000 so don't see the need for high flow cams. Keeping it simple there as I'm still learning to tune and don't want to many new variables to deal with and complicate things. Which is also the same reason why I'm leaving the fuel system alone for now. I've run some numbers and listened to comments and am definitely short on fuel. I'm wiring in a fuel pressure sensor so I'll load her up to as far as I can with stable pressure then when it starts to fall over I'll take 5% off the tune. Anyway, won't be getting out of the 400's with the fuel system so that will do for now. Just taking a guess I'll be at 21psi and 17deg of timing at 0.82 lambda and a little more overlap up top and end with something around the 460rwkw mark? Hoping to keep closed loop boost control so that may be a challenge as I'm not sure what the pulsar port job is like. After everything has settled in I'll save up for a Walbro 525, or a twin staged setup with a 450 and a 255 on a hobbs switch, FPR1200, IDX1300's (love good injector data) and a fuel rail. 4 bar base pressure, boost referenced. Once fuel is sorted the limiting factors will be the desire to keep the factory air intake cross over, 265 Michelins PS4's on the OEM snowflake 8" rims and in terms of things that will break still running the stock Ute drive train. Thanks for your comments. I'm doing everything you said pretty much lol.

I wanted to do this mod to mine. I never got around to doing it as I dropped the adapt enable to 50degrees which made a world of difference. But after all that I only very recently put the adapt enable back to stock and deleted my external cooler and went back to a new OEM heat exchanger. Time will tell if I'm an idiot. But I figured with regular servicing, making sure coolant is in top condition and replacing the heat exchanger every few years I should be fine. I'm also a big fan of things been kept at reasonably constant thermal temps as that is what they are designed to run at for clearances and sh*t. No ZF data for that last comment, but that's what our steam turbines like and its something that's ingrained into me here at work so I just carry that on at home. And yeah, if it does milkshake then I can justify the 6R80 build, call myself an idiot and re-install my external again lol.

That's what I tell the Mrs.