hjtrbo

Same mob as last week. Might be time to take over a 7 iron and see what's up 😈

Agreed. When you get the new converter a good way to find a start point for lock up is do 2 power runs from very low rpms. One unlocked and the other fully locked. The rpm point where the power lines intersect is roughly where you want to start the lockup or just a smidge before. That nets you the best gains of torque multiplication to start with then 100% converter efficiency out the back. You may be even to lock up in 3rd... The timeslip will let you know . Wish you lived out my way, would love to see it at the Calder Friday night drags.

Low load lockup in the tall gear is a good strategy. Its what I do for every mate in there fully sick VE and VFs. The hard part is the getting the drag tune right. E.g. you might leave it unlocked 1 through 3, then not long after the 4th shift get her to pull down for the run out the back. Takes a bit to get it crisp.

Probably telling you how to suck eggs here.... Just ignore me if I am. Circle D triple disc. I do notice the ZF runs a continuous slip strategy. I did find a table that zeros out the slip but the results were varied. There are a few other tables I found that I posted about in my zf thread over on the pcmtec forum that I reckon you'd use. You'd need to specify OE woven frictions on par with what they do with there GM converters so that you don't get shudder and also can handle the long slip duration into lockup.

Goodness, everyone's got a fair bit on. Puffwagon is kicking goals with his build, great to see it finally coming alive after so long. As he gets closer to completing his journey, mine starts. Engine If you remember earlier a failed front cover oil seal ended up uncovering a massive can of worms that has resulted in a full rebuild. Fair to say I've learnt a lot since creating that thread, but there is so much more learning to come. Long story short, the cam was done, some of the rollers were done, some of the lifters were done, timing chain guides broken, cracked turbo exhaust housing, oval bores, main bearings end of life, pistons undersized. Basically she was a tired old girl. Still went bloody hard though and ran quiet as a mouse which is a testament to the robustness of the taxi engine. FG front cover oil leak - Engine Workshop - Ford XR6 Turbo.com I know @JETURBO like his workbench pics of his customers parts. He was the inspiration that I needed to do the blatant copy cat. I still think he does a better job, I'm no photographer. Lexi the dog is out for look. She always hangs around, love her to bits. And yes, I do mop my shed floors. Makes me want to get in and do a bit when the sheds clean. Hoping to get the ute into the 500rwkw club. Still stock ZF and driveline. Still rocking a 245 rear tyre which is my torque limiter device for gears 1 through 3. When choosing the pistons I elected to up the compression to 10:1. I bought an Aquamist kit to see if I can stay on 98. Will be placing a lot of confidence in the knock monitor when she's on the dyno. Went with the factory cams again, and retaining the stock exhaust manifold. Will be tuning this one myself. If anyone wants to know what it costs to go built motor with full service engine machining and specialist work, then screwing it together yourself as a kit set whilst paying retail for parts, don't expect much change out of $20k. Add another $__k for built ZF, driveshaft and built 9" diff. All machine work, balancing and dummy assembly for clearance checks was done by John at Powerhouse Engines in Warragul. He also supplied most of the hardware for the build. I'm attaching the spread sheet so anyone wanting to build there own motor can get the parts numbers and costs. Turbo Pulsar GTX3584RS with an at home modified port and flapper. See thread below for the build dairy. Flapper mod project - Turbo Workshop - Ford XR6 Turbo.com Only a 6mm diameter change but you can see visually how much bigger it is. Before and after shot Trans cooler Big Aeroflow cooler with built in fan. Also grabbed a Derale bypass valve 25719. This device keeps the cooler bypassed until the fluid temp is >80degC. The fan kicks on not far after that. The idea is to maintain a narrow temp range of trans temp so I am not fighting any temperature modifiers or thermal characteristics inherit to the transmission when dialling in the ZF tune. Likely no need to install it as none of the big players fit them, but it makes me feel better. Being a ute, the cooler went down the back. I ran a larger power cable down there than what I need to allow for possible fuel pump upgrades later down the road. There is also an ignition switched wire down there to enable the fan. Wasn't paying a fortune for the hose separators, flea bay to the rescue. Bought a 10 pack of separators for under $30 delivered. Quality was good too. Hose is Raceworks AN8 120 series and fittings are 100 series cutter. Found a nice waterproof fuse and relay combo box to house the fan relay. There is spare room in there for another fuse and relay for a fuel pump upgrade in the future. Went down the rabbit hole if using the over braid and heat shrink for looks. Bloody waste of time because you can't even see it once it's installed. Block Got to have some fun masking up the block and cam cover. Came out ok. Getting all the rust off is a pain in the arse. Went and got one of those multipack brass cleaning wheel kits and got into it with the battery drill. Allow half a day to clean and mask up. When masking the head, try and find something round to help mask off the spark plug holes. Makes it a lot easier. Also, if you didn't already know, use a hammer and LIGHTLY tap around the edge of the masking tape to make a perfect mask over bosses etc. Parts List.pdf

Bloody love your work Puff. I've just placed all my bits onto the bench to give Jet a run for his money on the parts photo. You ever thought about starting up your own shop? Or even creating a training course? There has got to be 800awkw in that build surely

Yeah, shoot. I realised that afterwards that the Makita was 40V. Apples and Oranges. Correction to my original post... Metabo 18V FOR THE WIN. Just bought a whole bunch of Milwaukee stuff lately too. Serves me right for jumping on the band wagon.

Makita for the win. Metabo a close 2nd. Bosch and Milwaukee absolutely no where. Good test. https://www.facebook.com/reel/814831416429711

Fark bro, still running her in and you've got that tank moving nice!!!

Awesome mate. It's been a long time coming. Boost hard, boost well.

That was me at 5.30 this morning. Shat the bed, couldn't sleep, mind racing thinking about car projects. Got in the shed made up a wiring loom for the meth kit.

Steve is making some good progress over in the US. Nice 1 piece girdle mock up.

@g6efra, I'll save you even more time than Mrs JT's kind suggestion, just call him Monday and make a booking. Done.

Agree. Maybe in 2 plus years there'll be some good info available and build vids on You Tube etc so blokes like me can reference those to build my own box and have a source for the good frictions and 6R80 hard parts etc, as well as given a step by step on how it all goes together and where the clearances need to be at and what special tools are needed etc etc.

They also told me mine wasn't and quoted me a new shaft. Price was similar to what you got quoted. Had a go at it as had nothing to lose and got it done. Wasn't hard.

Was your original tail shaft not OEM? The centre bearing can easily be replaced on the OEM tail shaft.

Fark yeah man

Yes, hoping so, that will be perfect. Pretty keen on trying out a 4 port later on once everything is shaken down and she's had a few weeks going to work and back trouble free.

Nearly there. Made a press fit collar to lock the flapper onto the arm. Gave it a bunch of heat to get it on. Then centre punched the flapper shaft to make sure she never comes out. There is a smidge of axial and longitudinal clearance built into the connection to allow for heat expansion and to ensure a positive seal when the flap is closed. Went to go to weld the arm on then realised I’m down some consumables on my TIG. I have placed a shim in between the flapper arm and sleeve on the inside before I weld the arm on. When done, I’ll pull the shim out and that will give me a little bit of end float to allow for heat expansion and to keep it from binding up. Anyway, close enough to call this project successful and done.

It doesn't sound like much, but here is 32mm compared to 38mm. A basic calc has the flow rate with 26psi inlet pressure and assuming 1 psi outlet pressure and 900°C at 19m³/min for the 32mm port and 26m³/min for the 38mm port. A back of the napkin flow increase of 37%.

Thanks. What's the going rate for a port job? Based on what I've learned in the last day and a bit, then with streamlining of a few things I.e. bunch of flappers CNC'd somewhere else, I can see around the $400 mark being about right. Like I said, no idea what it's worth.

Can get one later but ideally needs to be a turbo PCM. You can use a NA PCM you will lose the boost control logic. If sticking with a turbo PCM it doesn't matter which one you get. Just so long as the hardware ID is APS-234 it will take any turbo tune from FG to FG-X both auto and manual.

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No comment.

Whilst I wait for my boring head to turn up I got stuck into the flapper itself. Before I started, I removed the old flapper from the actuator arm to get some base measurements. Bunnings nail pincer to the rescue to remove the press fit lock collar. Started out with a bit of 63mm 316 that I had laying around. Heap of rough turning to get it to shape. And the finished 42mm flapper. Plenty of room. Could even go bigger if I bored the housing out a few mm more. I reckon a 42mm hole with 46mm flapper is easily possible. Would take the housing clearance out to 48mm to give 1mm clearance each side of the flapper. Shed is cleaned up. Thristy now, time for a beer.