hjtrbo

Haha, yeah leave that one with me. I still want to keep it looking stock. The muffler outlet is so small, the GTX eats it. Need some more thinking time for a plan. Battery relocation / air intake kit is not for me. Thinking I can modify the turbo side of the muffler to get the diameter right. Paint it all in hammertone black and no one will know.

Nearly there. She goes back in the hole tomorrow.

Glad you got her locked up. Just some dark humour, if the bell housing sounds like a rattle can ever again in the future, it will be good to see the dowels still taking up the load. Done some more digging. A letter V drill bit comes in close at 9.6mm. NFI where you can get one of those from at a normal price locally. Found a 2 flute carbide bit for $126USD plus shipping. No farken chance that's happening. #reamer

Awesome. They usually drill oversize just a tad. Hoping it all works out. Plan B is to go to a taper pin and ream a taper into the crank holes and flex plate. We don't want to go to plan B. So a 2nd 5mm mandrel for pilot holes is a good idea then . Lucky you've been working out🏋️‍♀️

Did you find a dowel that was a nice press fit?

Hope it works out puff. The reamers I ordered arrived today. Version 2 of that tool will have wrist pin precision for the mandrel fit. $40 bucks worth of 1020 and 4140 steel and some shed time on the lathe and mill. Sure cheaper than atomics $469 tool. Probs can rent it out to regular forum contributors for a beer money fee for mandrel maintenance. PM if you need it.

I can't see you having any problems with the 360.

What Pierberg did you have in mind? It's not so much the re-tune aspect; consider if the pump you're thinking about flows way more than the factory reg can handle. Should that be the case you would upgrade your fuel pressure reg along with logging fuel pressure to verify the return line can handle the increased flow during idle and decel states.

That sounds way to cheap. I presume that means they're just doing a clean and friction change. You should spend extra and get the bushes, bearings and valve body done. Will be like brand new.

did beer contribute to its demise

Just went through this thread for the first time. Awesome work man, I have a soft spot for the VP SS I sold many years ago for beer money. I miss her dearly. Having nearly finished restoring an old HJ I know the pain you've gone through. Cleaning and preping parts is the worst if you're not in the mood that particular day. Very impressed with what you've achieved, the build quality is amazing, a credit to you. Nostalgic picture that make me sad

If you stick 80psi of shop air up its arse it'll relieve itself all alright. The actuator must be air tight. Use a Mityvac or similar home made air regulator plumbed contraption to test it.

Yeah same place as the old one or into the outlet.

She's cooked! I'm impressed.

Unreal.

Yeah, you pretty well got it one. Finding the right trigger point and the correct progression will take a lot of time to get the balance right between power and economy. WOT is easy but the part load stuff will be tricky I.e. I don't want it spraying when I'm accelerating like a normal person onto the freeway. From my research I am thinking I'll get around 3 weeks between meth tank fills. Basically every 3rd tank of fuel, I'll need to top up the meth tank. Driving style dependant of course. New tank design. Lost a little bit of volume, am now at 10L. Just heading out to the shed now to make the cardboard mock up

Hey JET, I've already got her on a E85 flex tune. I clock up about 500km a week so e85 has added up after a few years when I budget on it being about 30% increase consumption and a rough 40 cent premium over 98 Octane. Only a very small portion of that driving do I need the benefit of E85 therefore I conclude I'm pissing money out the tail pipe. In my use case and with my power goal, I think a meth kit is better option. My blown VF that I hardly drive is full time E85. That won't change. I will miss the smell of E85 on a cold startup. Bloody love that stuff .

Just when you think things are going well...

Loving the youtube 101 videos. I sent Puff an embarrassing PM the other day where we went back and forward for what seemed like hours where he was slapping his head on the keyboard trying to tell me the pistons are offset. I would have sworn they wern't and had no idea what the hell he was going on about. Eventually I found out what that meant. Embarrassed? You bet! For those that come across this thread in the future and you're screwing an engine together for the first time and have good mechanical aptitude but are just lacking in the engine assembly knowledge department, I can assure there are some little things that can bite you. Piston offset, piston ring top and bottom hardness differences (I.e. getting in the rhythm on the ring file for the top set then realise the bottom set are way softer!), not sealing certain bolts are some just to name a few. I came across this series of videos. He goes into extreme detail, example 30mins just to show how to place a crankshaft into the block. A little long in places but overall perfect for those starting out. A recommended watch. Engine Building Part 2 - Gapping Rings, Installing Pistons in a 350 Chevy - YouTube Engine Building Part 3: Installing Crankshafts - YouTube Engine Building Part 4: Pistons, Rings, and Rods - YouTube Engine Building Part 5: Camshafts - YouTube Engine Building Part 6: Cylinder Heads - YouTube

Thanks mate. Using Inventor. For some reason way back at the start I didn't get on the Solid Works band wagon and have been regretting it ever since. I have so much time invested in learning Inventor that I'm not swapping now. Space is at a premium in the shop. Currently got an order out to get another bay put on so I can get a 4 post hoist in. Running out of room to store my cars

Nice. I haven't read your whole thread yet but did you have water meth on this?

Wild colour. Get them head lights painted too.

Time for a custom meth tank. Got 11 litres so far. Once its laser cut and I've got it bent and tacked up I'll see if I can add some more shapes to increase the capacity. It picks up the factory mounting points for the washer bottle so should be a bolt in installation. I left enough room rearward of the fog light to still replace the globe without having to take the tank out. The tank will also supply the window washer pump. I haven't worked out the fill piping yet, will need the tank installed as it's an intricate set of bends to get it to where the factory washer bottle fill point is in the engine bay. I'm adding in the mounts for the common Aquamist style pump so it should be reasonably universal across different meth kits. Will also have bungs for level switch and outlet plumbing. The windscreen washer pump will be roughly in the same place so there will be no modification required there to the factory wiring or plumbing. Once I've got it dialled in I'll be making these available for sale. Will be cost price plus some beer money. Should suit all FG-FG2 XR6. Maybe others if the washer bottle is the same part number all the way through. I left plenty of clearance around the bar and fog light to give it the best chance of being universal across as many models as possible.

So not like this then ‘An injustice all the way’: Dad’s anger after knocking out motorist with golf club in north Adelaide | 7NEWS

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