hjtrbo

It'll look like sh*t. Buy the proper pliers and stainless wire. 3rd gear sell them at a good price. And drilling into those case hardened bolts free hand will not be for the faint hearted. Reckon you'll get frustrated and give up. Drill press is a must in my opinion. https://www.thirdgear.com.au/6-Safety-Wire-Pliers https://www.thirdgear.com.au/stainless-steel-safety-lock-wire-15-m/ https://www.totaltools.com.au/114575-p-n-workshop-1-5-x-40mm-hss-tin-jobber-drill-bit-10-piece-166310591 https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-500w-16mm-drill-press-bdp-500_p0048826 https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-75mm-drill-press-vice_p5860161 https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-3mm-centre-punch_p5610241 https://www.bunnings.com.au/protector-clear-ultralite-wraparound-safety-glasses_p5814707

Gotchya. @ken666 drill press and tie wire for you. Or look at the atomic flex plate.

There is a locking plate you can buy that goes around the bolts for $20 plus shipping. Flywheel/Flexplate Bolt Locking Plate for Ford Falcon EA EB ED EF EL AU BA BF FG 6-CYL (planetparts.com.au) Or if you're a tight arse and have a drill press, just tie wire the bastards like I did. If it's good enough for a helicopter, it should be fine for a barra.

Yes, gasket goo / thread sealer is required. Make sure everything is clean clean clean to give the sealer the best chance of success.

Damn, going to be a restless night. Good excuse to let the kids build forts in the lounge and everyone sleeps under the AC.

Lol 20L/100km.

3 cans to get motivated usually does it for this cat.

Ooh, they do a stock location fg manifold that accommodates the factory heat shields. Sold. @adams355 thanks for the link.

Just having a guess here; I presume to make it work on the road a second solenoid valve would be installed that would activate the anti-lag valve from the PCM IMRC output via a multi-tune.

@biddie_fiddler Call there bluff and stay in the house. Quite possible they are doing the sneaky so they can rent it out again at a way higher price. Or on the flip side, the new owner may want to keep you on. Either way, next years problem

2nd time around. Engine out. Learning curves... Lucky bearings are cheap. Clean, clean and clean. And clean. And if you didn't catch on, clean. White rag in, white rag out. It cannot be understated enough. And no matter what you're told, at the very least use plastigauge to confirm you're in the ball park on your clearances. Anyway, moving on from those apprentice things... Oh, and de-pump your lifters. And another massive don't in amongst all the other big don'ts; do not put assembly lube behind the bearings. Yep, 1st class rookie here making all the mistakes. Argh, time is free and the wife is very forgiving. But leaving all that behind, more positive stuff to report. Got a few bonus jobs done. Posted some of these shots in Puffs thread the other day, please excuse the repeats... Lock wired the Pulsar turbo housing bolts. Bodgied up the Pulsar 1mm oil restrictor fitting into the factory oil feed fitting Red loctite and lock wired the flex bolts. I understand the bolts out backing issue is a combination of power level (say 500+) and what the engine is being turned to (say 6500rpm+) but regardless, got in there first. Early worst case, I feel all sorts of vibrations. Research suggests that at my power level goal I should be ok anyway.

Jets tuning thread has 100's of combos with all the mods listed. A very good resource and well worth your time reading through and making a few notes along the way. Take your pick and start saving

@Puffwagon What do you think? You on board?

Only posting to complete the thread. Job done and objective achieved.

Yes, do the springs and surge tank. That set up will get you a long way and probably see you right for the life of the car. With those 2 extra mods and a multi tune you'll be high 400's on e85.

ouch. Not having played with anti-lag myself, not sure how much of a band there is that goes from mid to wild. Should there be room, then first thoughts are it's on your tuner.

Instafamous 🤓

Yeah, annoying. This will work on the flex plate too for the bolts that walk loose.

Going back to my karting days I tie wired everything. I reckon that'll sort the housing bolts backing out. Had the issue on the Garret as well, perhaps not just a Pulsar thing. Note to the new tie wire players, Remove bolts, clean threads, re-install and torque down to spec. Mark all bolts where they are situated and also mark the most logical flat face for the hole to be drilled through. Remove all bolts and drill a 1.5mm hole through the bolt. You need to use a drill press on high speed (1400+rpm works). Best of luck with a battery drill, it can be done with a steady stance and good continual drill alignment. Do a good job, use logic with the hole placement and with the right tools and it can look very professional. (Google Image) (Good price)

Love that price too... $2.20 last time I filled up local.

Just an info post. Installed the old stock high km gears for a test, tip clearance is 0.13mm I.e. about 0.1mm tighter than the Empire gears. Everything else was pretty well the same. Will keep an eye on things and see what the oil pressure ends up settling at.

Excellent timing on the info!

The coolant is an easy one. What ever the service manual says.

@k31th these are good. BROMIC Map-Pro Swivel Brazing Torch Kit 1811648 | Total Tools