hjtrbo

all good man. My next plan of attack is to drop the leaf and shock out and smear grease everywhere. If it goes away for a month or two then at least I can hone in on it. Failing that, not sure how one would check for cracked spot welds or a cracked chassis rail. 🤷‍♂️

Has had the seat out Puff. I pulled up all the carpet and side trim to get a good go at it. Had a friend drive me around while I was sitting on the floor pan with a screw driver. The noise is roughly where the left chassis rail joins to the body. Have checked all tub mounting bolts are tight.

Wouldn't normally post up a question like this these days but this has got me farked. My Ute has a creaking sound from behind the passenger seat. I've had the interior out with no luck finding it. Had it up on the hoist with the biggest pry bar I have and nothing obvious. Checked everything I could think of. Starting to wonder if I'm looking for a cracked seam or something. Had a bit of a search but only the 1 topic looked promising which was about a crushed frame rail from over tightening of the front leaf bolt. Any takers?

Short answer, not a chance.

lol, it fixed all of mine

+1 for Whiteford

Presuming the car runs ok? If yes, coincidence I'd say. The stepper motors are easy to replace, and the cluster is also easy to remove. Little black thing is a supressor. I'd leave that hooked up. Needs to be bolted down too.

A cheap obd2 tool will be fine for reading and clearing codes.

oil leaks, built motor talk and 1 useable hand @Puffwagon

not bad for a Southie lol, they might just let you across the border

just weld the tail shaft to the flywheel. use the starter to get her away off the lights. 🐟

If you're rich, 6L90 Circle d triple plate 2800+rpm stall with woven fibre clutch discs suited for PWM lockup TCM-2650 + 6L90 wiring kit.

Lol, brings back memories. Goes to replace timing cover seal, ends up building an engine.

@XRM123 Awesome. Would you mind adding a couple of pics and maybe a link to the kit? Be good to see how the mounting hardware looks on the diff and chassis. Assuming you are talking about FG? I have been wanting to do this to mine for ages but just need some motivation. edit: Rear Sway Bar - 20mm Non Adjustable to Suit Ford Falcon AU, BA, BF Wagon, Ute and Cab Chassis and FPV (whiteline.com.au)

You need to wait until the car is in fuel status = closed loop. Check again with the engine warm and a couple of minutes after starting. 15L city is not unheard of, she's 2 tonnes.

Can run a thermal bypass. See thread for info. FWIW most just run an external cooler only.

Lucky bastard. I didn't have enough room to swing mine in the 4 jaw. The only other thing I did that I didn't post about was got out the carbide burr tool with a long shank and blended in the transition from the turbine housing gas path into the wastegate outlet (if that makes sense). Nice work man.

It'll look like sh*t. Buy the proper pliers and stainless wire. 3rd gear sell them at a good price. And drilling into those case hardened bolts free hand will not be for the faint hearted. Reckon you'll get frustrated and give up. Drill press is a must in my opinion. https://www.thirdgear.com.au/6-Safety-Wire-Pliers https://www.thirdgear.com.au/stainless-steel-safety-lock-wire-15-m/ https://www.totaltools.com.au/114575-p-n-workshop-1-5-x-40mm-hss-tin-jobber-drill-bit-10-piece-166310591 https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-500w-16mm-drill-press-bdp-500_p0048826 https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-75mm-drill-press-vice_p5860161 https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-3mm-centre-punch_p5610241 https://www.bunnings.com.au/protector-clear-ultralite-wraparound-safety-glasses_p5814707

Gotchya. @ken666 drill press and tie wire for you. Or look at the atomic flex plate.

There is a locking plate you can buy that goes around the bolts for $20 plus shipping. Flywheel/Flexplate Bolt Locking Plate for Ford Falcon EA EB ED EF EL AU BA BF FG 6-CYL (planetparts.com.au) Or if you're a tight arse and have a drill press, just tie wire the bastards like I did. If it's good enough for a helicopter, it should be fine for a barra.

Yes, gasket goo / thread sealer is required. Make sure everything is clean clean clean to give the sealer the best chance of success.

Damn, going to be a restless night. Good excuse to let the kids build forts in the lounge and everyone sleeps under the AC.

Lol 20L/100km.

3 cans to get motivated usually does it for this cat.

Ooh, they do a stock location fg manifold that accommodates the factory heat shields. Sold. @adams355 thanks for the link.