hjtrbo

I presumed that was a given. OP, I presume you're talking about a 6hp19 or 21 box?

xr8 / xr6 have different bellhousings

Converter wouldn't have be been drained. If you're wanting to be sure, take it for a decent drive to get it all warmed up and settled down, then check the fluid level again when it's all cooled down. Search up on the dampers. They're in the valve body. But maybe next time by the sounds of your progress.

Manta has them. You can easily fab up a tab to retain the block hanger. While you're at it tack on a couple of m8 bolts stacked on one another to pick up the rear heat shield mounting hole. rattle rattle bendy bendy

You doing the dampers as well?

4th or higher huh. I got $$$ on something... But you know, gotta watch out for the pedantic carnts around here 🙃. ^^^ What puff said.

Time to beat the francis flog at his own game... Hey there! It sounds like you've done quite a bit of work on your car already. The fluctuating RPM and the P0420 code can be indicative of a few potential issues. Here are some things to consider: Catalytic Converter: The P0420 code is often related to catalytic converter efficiency. Even though you've changed the O2 sensors, it might be worth checking the condition of the catalytic converter itself. A failing converter can cause RPM fluctuations and trigger this code. Exhaust Leaks: Check for any exhaust leaks, especially near the O2 sensors. Leaks can lead to incorrect sensor readings and impact engine performance. Vacuum Leaks: Vacuum leaks can cause RPM fluctuations. Inspect all vacuum hoses and connections for any cracks or disconnections. Throttle Body and Idle Air Control Valve (IAC): A dirty or malfunctioning throttle body or IAC valve can result in unstable idle speeds. Consider cleaning these components and inspecting for proper functionality. Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: A faulty MAF sensor can affect air-fuel mixture, leading to RPM variations. Ensure the MAF sensor is clean and functioning correctly. Fuel System: Check the fuel injectors for clogs or issues. A fuel system cleaner might be beneficial. Ignition System: While you've addressed ignition coils, also check spark plugs and wires. A weak spark can cause RPM fluctuations. Transmission Issues: If the RPM fluctuations are related to changes in speed and incline, it's worth checking the transmission for any issues. Ensure the fluid is at the correct level and in good condition. Remember to double-check your work to make sure everything is properly installed and tightened. If the issue persists, considering a professional diagnostic scan or seeking advice from a mechanic might be the next step. Good luck, and I hope you find the solution soon!

iPhone?

@Puffwagon Why aren't you using an adblocker????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????/?

Can I guess that you put a restrictor in the boost line?

Check the turbo exhaust housing to centre core bolts as well. Mine used to always come loose. They don't any more.

What's with the chatgpt responses from this guy?

A bit of info for the internet archive. Built FG XR6T, around 1.5-2.0 thou bottom end clearances. Roughly 100km on the engine. Empire billet gears + backing plate, factory pressure relief valve. Both oils are Penrite 10 tenths. Viscosities are 10w-40 vs. 10w-60. Oil temp 92deg for both runs. Similar coolant temps @ around 89-92deg. Same piece of road on the same day.

Why won't you listen to us. We've been telling you for months, it needs a built engine to fix it. 🤪

He knows what it is. Clue: Took him out a few months back

It needs a bit of heat to help it

The cooler circuit is pumping at idle so you'll be ok with that.

That's how I used to do it That's how I do it now

There are cheaper kits around. Have a better look. OEM cooler is still available. It's good preventative maintenance to replace them. They are the common things that cause issues that can be easily replaced. Consider them a mid life birthday. Once installed they should see the life of the box out. Can be done trans in. It's a valve body out job. You'd need a new seperator plate as well. Plenty of ZF manuals around on the net to step through the replacement, check ball locations and torque specs. OBD is preferred over a temp gun. YepThatsIt on youtube has a couple good ZF videos

It's from the Microcat software.

1 person. You need a scan tool to read the trans temp. A cheap obd2 dongle and a phone app will work just fine for this. Pump in the same amount that came out. On first start after the trans has had it's initial fill, shift drive / neutral / reverse a few times holding for 5s. This helps filling / purging of the clutch circuits. When trans fluid temp is 35deg (from memory) remove the drain plug and drain / fill as required until fluid stops coming out. Considerations: Replace the factory heat exchanger. Optional is to delete it and run an external cooler. Replace the mechatronic connector sleeve. Replace valve body bridge seals. Replace solenoids. Replace valve body dampers.

Part number is ar2z16e146aa

SPLASH TRAY SUIT FG FALCON FORD UNDER BUMPER FRONT BAR AIR DEFLECTOR | eBay

Crank seal is common. Is it dry above the balancer? If so I reckon you found it. Also some of the bolts that go into the timing cover require thread sealer, so check all those too if it's wet above the balancer.