hjtrbo

F6 VIN 6FPAAAJGSWAA61922

What oil temps were you hitting?

Wikipedia reports the same comp ratio. Should be fine knock wise.

Respect the 2-3rd WOT shift. After 30,000km of pounding on it she eventually gave up on me in my old BA turbo. Lifting the foot slightly for the shift and in manual mode will go a long way to making it last.

Plus valve body off and do the seals and replace the heat exchanger (or go external cooler). So long as your bushes are still in good nick, the seals and the fluid change should see you right for many more km's. I would recommend a dedicated transmission shop that has good knowledge with ZF as they will likely go the extra mile and do air tests on the valve body and clutch ports that I suspect Ford and most backyarders won't do.

Backyarder street tune. GT3582 plus usual suppprting mods. 370rwkw @ 17psi @ 0.79 - 0.8 lambda @ 8deg max timing. Nice and safe. Need a dyno for the last 20kw.

Installed a new 4" Manta dump in place of the factory one so I had to rebuild that centre section I mentioned in my first post. Took the opportunity to put that hot dog in. Made a little bit of difference but not enough. Going to try the turbo flow mufflers. BTW love the 3M stripping discs. Bloody magic.

I'm familiar with drone and j-pipes. I made these and put them on my VF. Made a world of difference. What I'm experiencing now feels like a much different phenomenon. I wish I could put into words what it's like. I

Its not drone so dont think j pipes will work in this case???

@Captain Yeah Nah thanks mate, I have a 14" long hot dog laying around from a previous build that I'll shove up there and see how it goes. Out of desperation hence my reason for reaching out is I was considering changing out the rear muffler and adapting 2 x Lukey 2.5" turbo flow singles in there. Have to check clearance etc. But seems a bit drastic and another $500 down the drain. Was also thinking maybe I could put some small 6" hotdogs between the rear muffler and tips on the back, kind of like a silenced tip if that makes sense. Not fussed about volume, the quieter the better to be honest.

Hey gang, FG turbo ute. Running Manta 4" dump, into custom catless single section 3.5" (the red circle), then into the Manta twin 2.5" system out to the back. FG XR6 Turbo Ute 2.5in Dual Turbo Back - MPI Automotive Around 1900 to 2400 I have this nasty resonant rasp type sound very clearly coming from the back as opposed to hearing it up through the floor. Windows down driving up a narrow high walled street is extra noticeable. Bloody sounds terrible and reminds me of a p-plater in a V6 commo with muffler deletes. Everywhere else sounds good. I'm not sure if its vibration / resonance of the tail pipe section as that's unsupported and have some distance from the rear muffler outlet to the tips. How long is a piece of string I get that.... But anyone that has been there done that have any ideas that I could try?

Every falcon I've owned lol

Enzed made me some a while back for a project car. Fittings and hose can get expensive if you're paying retail.

Spot on. 400+rwkw on my ute with the Michie Pilot Sports. 1st gear is on wastegate spring, but 2nd and up is all in. They hold on very well. Worth it if you want power and traction. Gotta pay to play.

Had a quick look. The have a direct hook up version of the one you looked at. This will have a faster response time than OBD. Looked pretty simple to hook up, just piggy backs off one of the coil or injector signal wires. Then configure the right RPM pulse.

Hey @JETURBO what I was finding in winter the trans wouldn't adapt when I made changes to shift pressures unless I cained the f@ck out of it and got it hot. The purpose of this mod is to keep it in what I think is an 'adapt temp enable zone'. Cheers.

Yeah its a ZF. Just looking at some data logs going back to winter. I currently have the HX bypassed and am running straight to the external cooler which is mounted down the back (ute). In winter trans temp never exceeds 65°C. Summer temps are good at around 70-95°C. So what I'm looking to achieve is a narrower range of temperature all year round. Ideally 82 to 92°C based on the switch points of the cooler bypass valve and fan thermostat plus some hysteresis and dead time. How about this...

Hey, anyone see any issues with this set up? Thinking it will keep a stable 80 to 95degC no matter what the weather and have quick warm up time...

You mentioned the tune. Was that changed and then the noise started straight away?

I've had the the axles out in my FG M86 diff a couple of times. No clips in those. I just checked the factory manual for FG M80, no clips shown there either. Presume you have the retaining plate all undone and flopping around? It does usually take a good shock load to get them out if they've been in there a while.

Welcome to Falcon life. My guess from recent experience. Your cold ticking noise -> Exhaust manifold bolts loose Your engine bay rattle -> Lower turbo heat shield will be split at the rear mounting bolt on the back of the dump pipe Also while you're there check the hot side flange bolts on the turbo. They'll probably be loose as well.

@GeorgeGhia PCMTEC editor software

Just came across this thread today. I have had average to poor shift quality that I have ignored after changing ZF strategies from FG XR6T to FG F6 a few months back. I always though it maybe was something to do with my torque model that perhaps wasn't right for the F6 strategy. I just left it as is because I couldn't be bothered to try and fix it. The niggles were minor enough to warrant leaving it. Anyway...... Current set up: External cooler, trans temps always around 50 - 65degC. No thermal bypass valve on external cooler. The other day I took it out for a proper hiding around some winding country roads, the first warm day of the year and got trans temp up to a peak of 80degC which was the highest it's been since the cooler install some 6 months ago. The next day, shifts were on point. Done some digging in the ZF parameters and found evidence to support a claim that adaption starts at 70degC and ends at 95degC.

Thanks. Nothing rubbing that is obvious from inspecting on the vehicle. Just feels a bit looser than what I was expecting. Hard to tell when I have nothing to compare it against. And yes, a quick phone call to a turbo specialist is in order. Wonder if they will give me the measurements? I do have to pull the turbo off at some point as the rear housing bolts keep backing out and I want to put safety wire through them to stop it happening. Good time to inspect then. I did find these specs for a GT35 series turbo on another forum. Best I can find so far.

Hey all, a bit suss on my F6 turbo. Looking around but not having much luck on trying to find the axial and run out specs for the shaft. Any leads? Ta.