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Ended up taking the whole head to Powerhouse engines. John reckons he can get it back to in about a week which suits me perfect. How do I clean the carbon build up off the pistons and clean the block surface? Was thinking a dremel with a scotch disc shouldn't be to hard on it as long as I use common sense.

Thanks for the offer. Leave it with me, will pull the cams tomorrow and have a decent look at them all.

Thanks Puffwagon. FYI I can feel those lines in the roller with my finger nail. Do I just try and polish out the high spots or buy a new set or just leave them like you said. Thanks mate.

Hmm, I'm presuming this is bad https://1drv.ms/u/s!Atuxgi8rpo3Vmc9WdmNakpt9oSIDtg?e=5ySbth https://1drv.ms/u/s!Atuxgi8rpo3Vmc9VluR63eruBj6f_A?e=d48Oam https://1drv.ms/u/s!Atuxgi8rpo3Vmc9UObl7Ho9prg4BDA?e=zb6UOW

Home made removal tool. Yeah, problem found.

Discussing it here. Same fault.

You should be able to get a long way without a circuit board diagram. Just need the wiring diagram so you know which pin on the header plug you need to follow the trace on. https://1drv.ms/b/s!Atuxgi8rpo3Vl8UtmWvclbFsbML2Sw?e=6RwH9r Pg 83, 87-88

To use the new cluster you'll need to re link the pats security. Use Forscan with an extended license and a decent cable like obdlink mx. Couple of clicks and you'll be away. I haven't pulled a cluster apart to see if it's a relay or solid state. I'm sure with a wiring diagram you could chase the traces back on the board from the connector and work out if it's a relay or not. RS Components will likely have the part you need. Just hit it with the soldering iron. Failing all of that, any ford dealership should be able to get you going with a cluster reprogram.

Hey @Puffwagon and company. I'm going to do the head studs and oil pump gears / backing plate while its apart as I want to lean on the tune a bit harder on e85. Targeting mid 400's and she's my daily driver. Still has the genuine ford head gasket in there and I was thinking about being the poor man that I am and just doing the old 1 stud at a time head bolt changeover. What do you reckon about the poor mans head bolt change? Compared to you I don't know f#ck all about cars, just like getting in and having a go. There is a small crowd out there that spruik the method and report good success. I know its not ideal vs lifting the head and pulling the block out for a skim, but if I can get away with it, then fark it, why not right??? This is what I've got for the parts list (Golebys): ARP head studs BA/BF/FG 6 cylinder Barra Turbo 252-4302 $549 Barra 6cyl engine GMB water pump Turbo and non Turbo (GWF-106AP) $55 BA BF FG Ford Falcon Barra Timing gasket and seal set (TCS48) $55 GRP Engineering BA, BF and FG 6 Cylinder tappet cover gasket set $90 BA BF and FG Oil Pan gasket and Seal Set $50 Atomic Barra Heavy Duty Timing Chain Kit (306620-K-S) $693 Atomic Oil Pump End Plate (306753) $308 Atomic Billet Oil Pump Gears (306750) $475 $2,275 incl. gst + delivery

Hey you lot. Doing it backwards. Just pull the bastard apart and order sh*t later. Pulling the timing cover off to fix the stupid front lower oil leaks. Just wondering if I could get a hand with the parts list? Water pump Timing chain kit Decent rtv Front timing cover seal Thread sealer ? Thanks legends.

Leafs should fit. King has the same part number of their leafs from BA to FG-X. Can't go wrong with Lovells springs and Bilstein adjustables. Or MCA coil overs. Hopefully you're getting a nice tax return this year.

The stock variable cams and off boost strategy are very good. They do help to spool up quicker. Tom's advice is excellent. The 3582 and newer versions of it are a great turbo for mid 400's on the corn juice all day long for many 10's of thousands of kilometres. Whether to upgrade I think will depend on your level of tuning experience. If doing it yourself and you've had no variable cam experience I'd suggest leave the stock cams. If going to someone like jeturbo etc. just do whatever they say.

About 35min in this bloke goes through it.

After some more time and bashing she's done. Blowing smoke and there is a witness mark on the housing where the blade has contacted. Oh well, it's had a good run. I'm on the band wagon...

Can the new style wastegates be pulled apart to service? Reason I ask is I have one of their new style FPR's and although it has a locking collar you will never get it off. They used the Loctite that needs heat to get it loose, thereby destroying the diaphragm and seals.

Mk2 onwards BF with the 6 speed ZF. Higher k's you mentioned. Just need common sense on the inspection to make sure nothing's on the way out. A good mate of mine has an FG with 260,000 km on the clock at 390rwkw. He's good with the mechanical sympathy, lifts for shifts, still on original box, rarely winds it out past 5,500rpm.

https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=wrc+developments+napier 😄

Far out. I'm flying back and starting my own business lol. That's crazy. Did you ring Graeme at WRC Developments?

Can you get the tune file so we can look at it? It's been a few years since I've been back to the mother land so I'm not up to date, but WRC Devolpments in Napier did a lot of tuning work. Might pay to see if Graeme is still around and if he is willing to sort it for you. From memory he can sometimes be a little picky with what jobs he takes on. But like I said, it's been many years. If he takes your car I'd make sure its clean and looking its best before you turn up. No one likes working on a filthy smelly piece of sh*t. Spech if she gets a bit of paddock work over those cow paddies aye bro 🤣.

I'd add some Aussie tuners to that list as well JET. Seen a doozy of a tune when I first started learning to muck around with Falcons. Check engine light disabled & overboost p1227 disabled lol.

I'm with JET on this. Based on what you've said, desired boost = 20psi and actual = 15psi there is no way that p1227 can be set. Does the MAP sensor spike above 20psi in your data logs when it goes into limp mode? If it isn't then I think a fat finger has got involved by accident or someone didn't know what they were doing and changed the negative boost error numbers to positive which means you'll nearly always trip p1227 once you're 'on boost'. DTC's can be disabled, but this one you'll want to keep as it'll stop your motor grenading itself if the wastegate sticks shut.

Simple test to rule a few things out. Plumb the turbo signal line straight to the wastegate. It will run off spring pressure and be fine if all ok. Log MAP with your phone and obd2 dongle. If it rises appreciably above spring pressure your wastegate actuator, linkage or flapper is at fault.

Needs to go back to the tuner. They'll sort it. Just guessing games without data to look at.

Hey if you have a scan tool. Log fuel trims and map and wastegate dc. Also scan for codes. Wouldn't be surprised if limp mode is over Boost.