hjtrbo

it's a long story.

There's a gasket in each half moon, front / rear of sump.

It sounds like a massive job but it's actually not, drop the k-frame if you intend to re-seal the sump. It'll make your life far less horrible trying to get the sealing surfaces spotless for the new sealer. And to mention cleaning the sump to remove the old sealer. You don't want that floating around and getting stuck to the oil pickup screen. You can buy an Aeroflow engine support bar for cheap to hold the engine up. AF98-2065 – Import Parts & Mechanical (ipmracing.com.au) BMW zf 6hp26 (Genuine) valve body seals plus adapter seal block and mechatronic plug - MJ Products | Solar Fans & Lights | Vehicle Accessories | Auto-Transmission Parts | Lucas Oil Distributor BMW ZF 6HP26 6Spd Auto Trans Steel Metal Sump/Pan Conversion Kit (METAL/RUBBER Gasket) - MJ Products | Solar Fans & Lights | Vehicle Accessories | Auto-Transmission Parts | Lucas Oil Distributor 99800K - SHIFT KIT (6HP19/26/32 & 6R60/6R80) | Transmissions (alltranz.com.au) 99801K - ZIP KIT ZF6HP19/26/32 GEN 1 EXC CODE 053 | Transmissions (alltranz.com.au) 99995 - SEPARATOR PLATE (052 CODE) OEM | Transmissions (alltranz.com.au)

Yes you can drop the fluid out of the TC and replace it. There are valve body to case seals and valve body dampers that should be replaced. Also replace the case connector seal. Use genuine parts. MJ Products in Hallam VIC has everything you need. Be aware that when you refill the trans when its back on the car that you'll need to check the level maybe 2 or 3 more times over the course of a few days.

Your mount doesn't look good. Pretty nasty split. Time for a new one. For the nut, pry back the little locking indent. Then grab a 12pt deep socket that fits the nut.

4 tc bolts. Mark it. Have a weak memory of the way they're orientated the tc can only ever go back to the same spot. When you have the tc bolts out use a pry bar to gently push the converter towards the transmission. It should move back about 5-10mm. That'll get the tc spigot out of the crankshaft bore.

Hey, so that fuel issue is still there?

G35-900 would be better again.

the 82 would be better suited to your power goal. Stock airbox is fine. A common mod is to open up the front of it behind the head light.

Tempted. Could you send me a pm to discuss

2006 BF FPV F6 Yellow 2012 FG F6 White 2012 FG GT-P Blue If I had the coin I'd have those 3 in storage along side my imaginary H@SV collection. Not as an investment, but to get them all back on the road in 2049 when I retire.

Go buy 2 or 3 M6 x 100 cap screws. Cut the cap head off. Install into block. Use them as guide pins. Easy peasy

Spam reply 1/3 I had a 'banging' issue a looong time ago on an FG XR8 I owned. It turned out to be a hairline crack in the valve body. 3 brand new transmissions later. They were re-installing the faulty valve body before they found the fault because they didn't want to muck around with the software. Once they fitted a brand new valve body and updated the software she was mint. All under warranty thank goodness. But check your diff bushes and centre bearing first lol.

Usually can't go wrong if you go rural. Cash talks out there. Turn the journey into a nice day trip.

aeropro do a plate and cooler. Would want to use AN8 lines and keep line run short. Derale make a thermostat block to help with warmup.

If it were me, I'd install it dodgy as fark just for your track day then rip it all out when you're done.

ouch. Yeah, too hot fella. Bigger disc pad combo will help a little, but you got to get rid of that heat man. Not much fun doing a cool down lap every 3rd lap. Get some 4" heater duct from bunnings and cable tie it where required to get some fresh air to those calipers. I would also flush that brake fluid out, she would have been toasty az

Just to throw in some extra things to consider. Mark your discs with heat paint to see what temps your hitting? Could justify a cooling duct mod. Knowing and controlling disc / calliper temps, speaking with a specialist race pad supplier for instance. Race rated brake fluid (and a flush if you haven't done one recently). With your brake upgrade, you using same size pad? If yes, nothing is free, the pad is still exposed to the same amount of work in stopping the car. Work is joules. Presuming same tyre, the car won't in less distance (assuming you weren't braking like a pussy and were braking like a real man ). Joules over seconds is watts. Watts is heat. Things to ponder is all.

Horny boy. Kids back at School right

Any things to try / test come up in your searches?

Comes back to budget. I run a 21inch self propelled Honda on the thick stuff I have. Couch, how anal are you? Wanna go golf course spec? Cylinder mower.

Love a good piece of lawn. What's your budget? This ones right in the middle of an Aussie summer. Love a bit of the budgo Kikuyu.

You can't easily adjust the caster. It is considered non adjustable. Would need a sledgehammer lol. Tell the muppets to put the lasers back on it to get the front wheels straight and hop up into the drivers seat to check the steering wheel position.

Good thing it's stamped on the side of the box. You checked it's the same case? (bell housing, I don't know puff what else to call it ) And you were going to swap in your mechatronics?

I presumed that was a given. OP, I presume you're talking about a 6hp19 or 21 box?