FPVF6355

It's been a while but thought Id update this. Rollover noise came back and got worse over time. Did some more searching and found some info on driveline fault diagnosis. ''If you put your foot on the clutch pedal slightly and the rattle noise disappears it is NOT the transmission, it is the clutch'' I Also found separately that concentric slave cylinder bearings always make some light pressure on the clutch fingers. Anyway If I put slight pressure on the clutch pedal (very light) the thing is dead silent I looked at the clutch master cylinder and found it has a hole at 90 degrees to the piston like a jacking screw was meant to be there, or at least a provision for one. I used an M6 x 35 bolt and 2 nuts and adjusted the pedal to just starting to make pressure in the cylinder (only just enough to take up any slack in the CSC) and surprisingly the clutch pedal and brake pedal now line up exactly and the switch attached to the pedal is still within working range and any rollover noise is gone completely, I am using a twin plate aftermarket PBR clutch that came with CSC and flywheel, it probably needs a corrective shim to set the CSC tolerance properly, instead of doing what I did. But same result.

I have a truetrac and it clunks when first engaging the clutch, but smooth on road gear changes I use to have similar issues as described above bangs on changing during hard acceleration or decelerating The problem was the alternator It had a small voltage drop which was somehow effecting the ECU and causing a small glitch in the tps maybe, anyway new alternator no more bangs (shunting) in the drive line I was told by a tuner the ECU's are very sensitive to voltage supply, that's the only reason I looked at it as a possible cause. The voltage drop was too quick to detect on a multi meter

Before anyone says tremec makes the gearbox they should know. It's bs. I tried the g70 additive with dex111. Did nothing maybe worse. But definitely no improvement. Tried the penrite 70w 75 as recommended on their site. Fn expensive. $140 for 5 ltrs. But it fn works. Roll over completely gone. Sincros work quicker. I rebuilt the box about 2 months ago. New bearings and seals. Typical usa design. Big ass gears. Looooooose tolerance gear mess. The rollover was the same rven when completely rebuilt. Finally it doesn't soung like a truck idling when the aircon is on.

The first thing wrong is using a tuner who does mostly GM cars. Nizpro is just around the corner. Talk to the guys at nizpro the won't steer you in the wrong direction. There's a reason the nizpro carpark is full of xr6's and the dynamotive carpark is full of holdens.

Yeah I miss the good old days of distributors and diy tuning. And no speed cameras

Problem solved. New tuner. Had the car checked on dyno at the original tuner. 290rwkw as it was tuned originally, they wanted it for 3 days to sort it out. ECU, jumped a timing tooth, throttle body, could be anything they said. causing backfire. So I walked away, it's behaving the same way it was tuned originally. The initial tune had 16.5psi, the thermo fans on just about all the time to compensate for the heat issue The cat choked up after a few months too rich down low, leaning out at the top end. Took it to Nizpro (my new tuner) Found retarded timing. pretty f*ckn simple !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! New tune and fuel pump about 30kw more on less boost, running much much cooler much much smoother. and pulls so freely . Very very happy man. Will get a tune on E85 soon, by NIZPRO.

Nup. Got build photos on an old pc. I really want to make a replica of this with a bi turbo 1uz (900hp) aluminium honeycomb chassis. Or this non existent made up ferrari (very cool) I made a cnc router big enough to cut foam for a car body mould. All I need is time and cash :(

Yeah it had one straight through muffler quad tips 2 1/4 inch. And 4 hot dogs. Sounded better than a real ferrari. The higher the rpm the quicker it accelerated. Wicked. Took about 3000 miles to free it up to rev to 8500 Probably would only last 40000 ks but who cares. Whole engines are about $2000

http://www.shannons.com.au/auctions/lot/O391PAR7BLNB0R80/ the original car (shell) cost me $1000. It took 1000hrs to make it. I remade sills, floor, A pillars, chassis rails. All made on a rotissery. The 1uz is a brilliant engine, I started it on the shed floor sitting on it's sump and reved it. it didn't move WTF That is a very balanced engine. Without a cat (1971 ADR compliance in the 240z) and no emissions it put out 220kw on original toyota ECU. In a light weight steel frame and wrapped in thin glass body. It was super quick and fast. but very tractable. I cut 200kg of weight from the 1050kg 240z and with thin fibreglass (had body made that way to order) (50kg total body weight) I used a 300ZX turbo diff, supra 5 speed (tall first gear) and a custom made shift extention housing. It had merc bits, nissan, toyota, ford, holden. triumph, and heaps of custom made parts, like tail lights chrome trim etc. Unfortunatley the 1960's aero dynamics were like a plane wing it wanted to take off I sold it because it was a death machine. And I have limited self control.

For me half the fun is making stuff work that may or may not be designed for it. (I design and make industrial robotic sytems) Next year I'm planning a new bottom end, and complete refresh of the head. So far I've rebuilt the T56, head and tweaked and modified alot of the standard sh*t bits on the ford, like window winders, crossover pipe mountings etc This is the first turbo car I've ever had, it's a real love hate relationship. I recon If I can get this cooling / Air Fuel tuning issue sorted I'll be a happy man I had a 240z with a 1UZFE (950kg) You could thrash it all day long up to 8500rpm. and it would never miss a beat. I got rid of it because I nearly lost it at 160mph into some big ass gum trees (front wheels lifted off, no steering for a split second) With the ford I can park it at a shopping centre, take it on holidays, tow a boat or drive it on a race track,

So with this I wouldn't need a surge tank ?? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WALBRO-460-LPH-E85-FITTED-TO-FORD-FALCON-BA-BF-SEDAN-FUEL-PUMP-ASSEMBLY-DROP-GO-/171454532043?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27eb7c89cb&_uhb=1

agreed. I also noticed FG's have bigger oil and coolant lines going to the turbo. Might be worth getting FG piping from a wrecker. A bugatti veyron has 10 radiators, not sure where I could fit another 9 on a ford

just to update where I'm at with it. The car is manual I had some time to do some work on the car. Yes the oil is fried, 10w 60 penrite 1 week old. Also every exhaust and turbo bolt is loose after the track day, and blown out most gaskets (most of my issue on the day, I think) I had the turbo off and had a real good look at how the heat sheilds work (sh*te) If the turbo (big lump of cast iron is basicly running red hot, radiant heat is blasting at the middle of the head and compressor side of turbo) both made of great heat sink materials, transfering all that heat into the air passing through. So I got some ss lock nuts a new gasket set, and thermal wrap for the turbo, headers and dump., and a new genuine ford o2 sensor. I have digital readout in the car for the IC in and out, part of the IC temp controller 45psi pump and atomisers. on the track it reached 45deg at WOT until end of straights, then dropped to high 20's by end of first corners (works really well) After I fit the thermal wrap it will be interesting to see how much the engine temps and IC temps change ?? If I'm right about the open fire place (turbo) cooking the head and compressor, this should make a big difference. I'll get a new tune next week or 2 on e85, see how it goes. I watched a tuner and noticed he let the cars cool before re-runs. I'll make sure the tuner gets it nice and hot to be sure it's actually tuned to do more than race off at the traffic lights.

It still has stock fuel pump. Been looking at a surge tank that fits in the engine bay and holds a bosch 300LPH pump (next mod) Out of the corner sections I was letting the car settle for a couple of seconds before booting it on the straights. The tune I have has alot of boost 14.5 psi that holds until redline (when upchanging at 5500 you can hear the blow off dump air.) For intercooler size I'm not so convinced, the BF typhoon race car had stock IC and stock piping, no problems. When I think about 20,000 litres of air passing through at 5000rpm, a 50% bigger IC would make marginal difference to intake temps. that's half the volume of an average sized inground swimming pool every minute. In that I think the below comment makes alot of sense. Thanks for all the feedback, makes alot of sense, will be looking at E85 options and a suitable tune

I've only got the Blue PBR calipers with EBC green stuff pads, works well, but was a bit paranoid at first. they cool off enough on the straight for the first big left hander. I did manage to melt 2 front tyres, the car handles alot better than I expected (stock anti roll bars etc) SSL king springs. (150mm ground clearance) You need alot of balls to hold it flat until the 100mtr mark (about 240km hr) might work up to that But I'm sure the brakes would be fine.

It is low, but I think the thermo fans being on the whole time on the track would restrict air flow ?? Even so the needle in the middle of the gauge is not rediculously hot I would have thought. Just too hot for the current tune ? Got to remember the car is redlining in every gear constantly for 30 minutes flat. using 1/4 tank every half hour.

Not a miss fire, more like exploding unburnt fuel in the exhaust, followed by a big ploom of fuel vapour behind me. Pulling out of corners. Going to pull turbo off and see if there is a leak near turbo. Had similar issue once before tightened up the dump pipe bolts and it was then fine. The recent issue is similar just worse, Like Captain Retard said track conditions are Soooo much different to street. Which is why I'm asking if it needs tuning for track specificly. There was a race BF typhoon with 360rwkw that ran no probs with stock IC. At 200km there is plenty of air flow, heat soak is not an issue. It's Air fuel ratio in relation to engine temp. It was tuned to run quite cold, thermo fans kick in early. even on a 40 degree day (street) it never gets that hot (gauge needle pointing to first mark on gauge) On track guage pointing straight up to middle of gauge. Cooling down laps with needle back to first mark, car runs fine again until needle reaches middle of guage.

Had my first time on a track recently, car went really well until the temps came up. For street use the car runs great. after 3 laps on sandown, it was all down hill, temps were reading in the middle of the gauge, spitting big puffs of fuel vapour out the back, backifiring at WOT. fault codes all fuel and air mixture related. Power dropping down by 30% until backing off the throttle. it was like driving a car with a sick carby on a 40 degree day sh*te !! 1 cool down lap and back in business for 2 laps then too hot again. as the day went on it just got annoying and worse. Next day car ran fine on the street even at WOT. Can anyone tell me if this is typical of the fords ecu adjustment abilities or is there something wrong with my car ? Should I have a seperate tune for track use ? BA typhoon with 60lb siemens, 3.5" dump, 290rwkw, intercooler water spray with temp controller. 0.75 gapped ford plugs, new sensors all over, new ford coils. plasmaman valve springs Street fault code (system too rich) Fault codes on track day p1311 (lean) Had it dynoed before track day was trimming fuel below 4000rpm, no trimming after 4000 to redline (running rich up to 4000rpm) As soon as it got hot it was a pig. Any thoughts ??

Thanks but if it will cost mega bucks I might give it a miss. Iwas thinking of recoing and selling it. Saw one sold on fleabay for $600 with 120, 000 ks on it

That is how they are. Mine lasted 180,000 kms and was like that the whole time, you just get use to it. If you slips the clutch to get boost on take off, it will die in no time, that's the only way to wear them out quickly. Mine slipped in 6th and took a year to slip in 3rd before replacing it. (only at full boost below 3000rpm. Bullet proof clutch if treated well.)

I took my original clutch out of my typhoon (AP racing twin plate clutch) and put in after market twin plate. I want to get the original recoed, anyone suggest a clutch guru that can reline and regrind and set up properly ? (Melbourne) Can't find any specs on thicknesses, the clutch was apparently made for the typhoons custom by AP racing. It's way too good a clutch to bin, just has worn down facings. Rang fraud, they don't sell friction disks, just the whole unit $3600 :(

It felt like the voltage cut out almost completely, but didn't drop below 13.5 on the volt meter. Maybe the drop was too quick for the meter to display it. It's obvious the votage reg was faulty now. The new alternator is 120amp original was 110. It was that bad, once I shifted up as the fans kicked in and the rear end nearly got taken out (exagerating) but pretty severe shunt issues. The misses has a honda her lights dim as the thermo's kick in, but it seems a descent voltage drop has some significant effect on the fords ecu controls, and I've never seen this on any other car. But the tuner did mention it so I assume it's normal in the ford. Anyway shunting seems to be a big issue with alot of cars, worth checking the alternator as a possible cause. It's a completely different car now. smoooooth.

Just fited a new alternator to BA f6. I had 4 problems all solved. 1. Rattling noise (sounded like a loose washer somewhere) intermittent 2. Slight whining sound 3. Drive shunt when thermo fans came on. 4. Occasional squeeking sound. I have a volt meter on the dash, and voltage has always been fine. 13 - 14.5 V All of the issues above I thought were caused by tuning issue, and something I couldn't find, the rattle etc. The biggest suprise was the drive shunt fix. The tuner did say to me along time ago when I was chasing these issues was "these cars need good current delivery." But the voltage meter looked fine.

Just installed CI twin plate clutch (has PBR stamped all over it) Anyway I took out the old AP racing clutch F me it is nearly 30kg with flywheel. New clutch and flywheel only 20kg Feels so much better slightly zippier off the mark and pedal feels better than original. Mind you I got 180,000 clicks from original clutch and it started slipping in 6th at WOT a year ago and started slipping in 3rd at WOT just recently. It is built for a tank I think. My only concern with new clutch is it is mounted by only 6 x 8mm bolts through 6 posts, with loose fitting clearances from bolt to post, original clutch had alot more and very tight tolerances, so I'm a little fearful of shearing new clutch mounting bolts, see how it goes over time. Suppose to be good for 1500Nm. AP racing must be good for 15000Nm it's insanely heavy duty.