sd1800

Hey guys, I'm just about to get my diff bushes done, and I was wondering if there is anything else that is worthwhile changing while the diff is being dropped. I.e. anything that wears fast, or I would achieve noticeable difference by swapping with superpro gear. The aim here is to kill two or three birds with one stone while I'm paying the labour anyway.

Got under the car today to have a look at the uni and the centre bearing. Does this look like a normal amount of movement?

Thanks for the feedback guys. Interesting about the noise coming from the turbo. I tend to think it won't be it as I can't get it to replicate the noise under any other low / mid / high boost scenario in any other gear or neutral. I checked engine mounts the other day by loading it up in gear with the handbrake on and bonnet up. Very minimal movement so it won't be that. Also interestingly is the noise doesn't occur when I did this, so leads me to have think it's a driveshaft rotation-under-load issue rather than clutch/flywheel. Also checked the gear stick mounting and it's totally A-OK. Thanks for that suggestion though! I can see I've got a small split on my centre diff bush. Will be replacing that soon with super pro. Maybe that's causing it, or is a flow on effect (unusual angle on the centre bearing when taking off due to tailshaft dropping down due to shagged centre bush?) Speaking of centre bearing, for years now I have read very conflicting stories about whether FG MK2 bearings are replaceable, or if the tailshaft is just one single unit. Is there a definitive thread on this subject?

Hi Guys, hoping you can help me diagnose a noise coming from my driveline that has been getting progressively more noticeable over the last 3 months or so. I have included a video below. Listen for the wobble-board type sound when accelerating in 1st gear between about 1000-2000rpm. It only really does it when accelerating away from low speed or a standstill, and you can't replicate the noise in any other scenario outside of that. In the video below, I've kept the clutch fully engaged the whole time to demonstrate that it isn't a noise that occurs when the clutch is being slipped from a standstill. And it sounds like it's originating from the driveline (not the engine bay). I'm leaning towards the doughnut or centre bearing, but a quick visual inspection under the car showed they appeared to be OK (but I'm not 100% what I'm looking for either!). Keen to hear your thoughts before I take it to a shop!

You make a fairly valid point! Will the PWR kit bolt up to FG?

I've been trying to research what my options are here, but I can't seem to find anyone that does a kit for the FG. I did a search on these forums and I can see a post from 5-10 years ago that said Process West were looking at doing one, but I can't find anything more recent. I guess the reason I was after a kit is the reassurance it would be fit for purpose, as well as the brackets and oil lines ready to bolt on. I can see PWR do a kit for BA/BF, but it's not cheap and apparently won't bolt up to a FG. What has everyone else done for their FGs?

Excuse the thread mine..... This problem keeps re-appearing!!! Today is the third time this problem has re-appeared in 3 years. I just used the search function and found my own forgotten thread from 3-4 years ago! Each time I've had issues I have just done the above fix and it has worked, but has anyone found a long term solution to this (the poor connection with the harness for the steering wheel buttons)? Getting sick of having to pull the steering wheel apart every 12 months.

I don't know what I was doing wrong, but I found it incredibly difficult to access the aux wiring. I couldn't pop out the aux port with a flathead screwdriver and short of removing the entire centre console which I wasn't keen on doing, I couldnt work it out. Anyway, just thought I'd provide an alternative solution if it helps anyone else in the future. The electric seat base has a constant 12v. There are three plugs there (airbags, seatbelt monitoring etc), but the base is the one with only 4 wires and a smaller white plug. The 12v wire is black with white stripe. I tapped into this and ran the cable underneath the driver's seat and then up underneath the centre console.

I think you'll find the general consensus around here is Mal Wood Option 3+. Its rated at 410rwkw. Should drive as well as the standard clutch on the street. If you're getting close to 400rwkw I'd probably be inclined to go the option 4 for extra peace of mind, albeit heavier.

Set a new PB at Wakefield yesterday with a 1-13:2. However didn't get into the 1-12s with the new mods so abit disappointed. Hopefully as I get used to the car next time I'll take further second or two off. The Shockworks have definetely reversed the cars tendency to understeer as I did with the factory setup. I'd even say now that it oversteers a tad too much for my liking. Feels like I spent half the day going sideways. With that being said, the bald Nittos on the back would not have been helping at all.. Unfortunately I've developed abit of a rough/hunting idle since yesterday's thrash. It's nothing dramatic, maybe up and down 50rpm. Really hoping it's just a leaky intake manifold and nothing more sinister with the valve train :(

Nah won't be able to make that one unfortunately. Are there more Aussie cars at the track school events? I'm usually one of only 3/4 Commos / Falcons at the circuit club days. Endless 86s and mx5s though. That's a bloody good time mate! What work have you done? My 113:8 was stock other than tune @ 287rwkw. This will be my first time out since bigger brakes and shockworks. If I could take a second off I'd be happy...

Thanks. I'll look into the aux. The problem im having with leaving all the other bits on the cig lighter, is that the backlights remain on all time regardless of if the headlights are on or not.

Hey guys, just thought I'd see if anyone was heading out to Wakefield Park next Sunday?

Thanks for that! I've come across another snag. Guages work fine, but to wire them up properly I need to find the easiest constant 12v and a 12v light circuit. For the short term I've got all three just wired to the cig lighter, but the backlights remain on during the day and it doesn't save my settings when I turn the car off. Both expected. Anyone have any tips about where I could find the easiest circuits to tap into? I didn't really want to have to pull out the ICC, but it's kind of looking that might be my only option....

Thanks lads. I feel like abit of an idiot - after your replies it took me about 5 seconds to lift up the floor mat and find the grommet underneath the passenger footwell. Didnt even need to remove the glovebox. My mistake the other day was trying to find it and remove it from the engine bay as that's how I remember it from the EB, not realising it was so easily accessible from the cabin! While we're on topic, anything I should be aware of or tips regarding wiring them up to the 12v? They are just $50 SAAS Guages so I didn't plan on fusing them seperately, especially since the cig lighter circuit is fused anyway.