Noka

Did not replace the mechatronics unit as the gearbox seemed to be operating fine. Was driving how it was meant to be and changing when it needed to. The trans place quoted $300 per solenoid and 9 of them in the box therefore totalling $2700.....

20's all around just wider on the rear. Had them for a couple years and no problems until now

no tyres have been changed. although I did get a wheel alignment and they said to keep the tyres at 40psi just before this started.....

Mine has been tuned for a couple years now and not one problem. It has just started the past couple weeks and can not figure it out. I'm thinking it might be the motor on the throttle body might be a little sticky. I will be checking the pedal position sensors too. Maybe clean them with some contact cleaner and see if this helps.

My BF (06) XR6T ute has been playing up on cruise control. It is a 6 speed auto box with 110000km's. I have found when cruise control is on, or when driving without cruise control but when engine under load (going up a slight hill), the revs bounce up and down between 1500 & 1700 rpm and sounds like the car is surging. Was also getting the same shudder that a manual car gets when in a gear too high and going to slow. I took it to the transmission place to get a service and when dropped the pan basically the oil was water. Found the heat exchanger had sh*t itself and contaminated the oil with coolant. Basically rebuilt the auto (converter, clutch, plates etc...). The reco has fixed the shuddering problem but the surging still exists. I have today replaced the throttle position sensor and still have the same problem. Does anyone know what may be causing this. Over the last couple years I have been getting my ETC light come on and off randomly on the dash hence why I changed the TPS. The transmission guys have also managed to data log the ecu when driving and picked up the codes relating to the pedal position sensor, P2127, P2129, P2138 & P2140. Will this somehow effect the yo yoing of the rpm when the engine is under slight load (going up a hill with cruise on or off)? Thanks for any input!

Have just had the car retuned and 323rwkw. I fitted a walbro 342 fuel pump, a 12psi actuator and the wastegate ported. Thing is my dump pipe is still stock so now looking into a 4" dumpy and 3.5" exhaust. Would like to hit the 350 mark!!!

About to do my BF ute tomorrow. Excellent write up has made my job much easier. I have a gss342 pump but my filter looks different more like the stock filter so I hope it all goes in well.....Would I need to have the car retuned asap after changing the pump?

Walbro pump it is. So there is a bit of work fitting one of these in a ute yeah? Have to take the tubliner out, then drill out some part of the frame true? And if I go for a 12psi actuator that should be strong enough to hold the 14 psi boost at high rpm? What does the actuator port mean? Tobey, that giant hose across the front is my BOV return to the intake. Much appreciating all this info guys

And the exhaust is a 3" with high flow cat, centre muffler and rear hotdog and running 14psi boost

Ok, I picked up my 06 BF XR6T ute Decemeber 2010. First thing I did was lower it. New king springs in the front and leafs reset to as low as possible. Fitted some 20's and an Autometer Cobalt boost gauge and was happy with the look of things. Now was the time for power. After much researching and contemplating, I opted for a Rapid system V2.0 High flow IC kit. I also got 60lb deka injectors all from Chris at Rapid systems. So having fitted my new cooler, cold side piping and injectors it was time to take it for a custome tune. I had the injectors fitted, then the car put on the dyno. The tuning was done by Matty at Bullet Performance in Geelong with a SCT X3 tuner. After a bit of playing around, the final figure came in at 299rwkw. A few factors that could have effected it was using 95 octane fuel and the warm temperature. As the power bug has bitten me im already thinking of my next mods....Maybe a waste gate actuator? intake plenum? What could anyone else suggest to help me hit around the 350rwkw mark. Thanks

Why are you tapping into the fog light & traction control wiring?

Gday all. I have just installed a Autometer NV boost gauge to my BF turbo ute. After reading every forum on here and getting the best understanding oh where to pass the vac line and to hook up to the lighting circuit I thought I would share how I did it so it may help someone out in the future. 1. Remove little silver plate on top of centre console where to mount gauge 2. Take the silver shroud off from around the gear selector (it is only 4 clips that pop out) then take the side strips off by 1 screw each below the gear selector cover, then remove the tissue box by 1 screw on each side. Now you have access to the cig lighter wiring. 3. Undo top screw and then the 2 bolts on each side from the sides of the ICC so you can pull it out about 5cm for access 4. Remove glove box 5. Pass piece of straightened coat hanger in the gap behind the top of the ICC. I went from drivers side top diagonally down to passengers foot. If you look up from where the glove box is you will see light and you just have to guide the wire down there. I passed my vacuum line down there so it comes out above where the glove box is then fed it forward towards the firewall where there is a grommet by the passengers feet. 6. I ran some speaker wire (2 wires joined together) from the top where the gauge will sit and alone the left side of the ICC behind the removed panel so it comes out where the cig lighter is. 7. I spliced the gnd wire into the black wire onto the cig lighter, and the +ve wire to the blue/white wire that is taped onto the cig lighter loom. That gives you the illumination circuit so your gauge light comes on with cars lights. But it just doesnt dim from here when u dim the dash. 8. I passed the vac line thru the grommet into the engine bay and then went straight up so you are near the bov. Cable tied it in gently as not to block the line and put a t piece into the bov vacuum line. I tried tapping into the vac line that went into the manifold but was having the needle flicker too much and not reading correct boost or vac as there is apparantly a check valve in that vac line and was giving bad indications. Went into the bov line and works real smooth. 9. Put everything back together and enjoy. Hope this helps. Will try get some photos up in the next few days if need any help give us a shout. After all I wouldnt have been able to do it without reading about other peoples experience.