1600dave

$60 when I asked a few months ago. Cheaper to buy a 20L drum, I was quoted $590 (mates rates) Got 20L of gulf western syntrans for $154 - haven't had any problems with it!

Depends on if its a full flush or not. Around 8l I think is what oil manufacturers have written in their listings for a dry fill. When I got mine flushed with a different fluid they used probably 17l of a 20l drum. You can't just remove X amount though and replace with X amount of oil, there's a proper procedure to it.

So, if its left as is, what problems can it cause, as its obviously just going to get worse. At the moment that's the only cracks I can see in it - none around the bolt holes.

How'd you end up going with this? Cheapest I've seen is from ATP, but I cant seem to find the actual Garrett part number anywhere. Also, how big is the wastegate port on the Garrett housings?

Some photos of the cracks. Havent been able to find any others on the housing. anywhere in particular I should be looking?

How big is the hole to begin with? I've got a turbo that's been modded, has a 37 or 38mm flap, but only a 30mm hole. Also I noticed alot of cracks in around the port - its a ford rear housing. Is cracking in this area okay or going to cause problems?

What size restrictor fitting going into the turbo should be used with these? From what I've read ball bearing turbos use a 1mm restrictor, that wasn't what came with my oil line though. Or is the restriction in a different place on our cars?

With mine I just remoevd the airbox, removed the wiring loom from oil pressure sensor, 24mm deep socket with an extension on, slides over the sensor and undoes the adaptor. Then slide the oil line off, then remove the fitting going into the block. It's piss easy to do, takes all of 10mins once you know what your doing. Didnt need to hold the banjo fitting in the block as its done up tighter than the adapter.

Remove the standard screen that's for sure. Also worth cleaning out the line as it can get a buildup of crap inside. Heaps of people have no filter at all - with no issues. Then again it doesn hurt to fit an earls line and have some extra piece of mind. the filter position makes it piss easy to clean/maintain.

Just get one from any of the suppliers selling the aftermarket oil lines. GJ drivelines are an earls supplier.

From what I've heard the sleeve is to help stop the crimped fittings leaking, which may or may not work. I just purchased one from them off ebay, their ebay listing shows screw fittings, however the one I got has crimped, and the sleeve. Fitting it this weekend, see how it goes!

Sussed it out using the LiveLoad software for the X2

Cheers, will give it a go! I assume they're all much of a muchness in terms of quality & effectiveness? Gonna chuck both of these in, and see what happens... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-5mm-Headphone-Jack-Ground-Loop-Isolator-Noise-Filter-/280594919631?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4154c2b0cf http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA3072&keywords=noise+filter&form=KEYWORD

At what point after plugging the box into the car, will it reveal if its locked/unlocked, for both the XCAL 2 & 3? I'm trying to sell an XCAL 2 I have & would like to be able to assure people its going to work. Powers up, can navigate through menu's etc. I've never used it on my car though, bought it with a package, and I already have an X3. Also, I believe with the X2's there's something that a tuner can unlock without it having to be sent off? Thanks, Dave

Tried an earth on the alternator body to the battery, and an extra one off the battery to the chassis, didn't help. In my case, I'm getting horrible noise even without the engine running, just on accessory so the aux kit powers up. If I touch the silver/metallic back cover of the iPod it makes scratching type noises (loud) and a constant whirring/whine sound without touching it. Other things I tried don't make the scratching sound, but still the whirring/whine. Must have something to do with the iPod's metal rear cover. All of the stuff works fine with my headphones and home theater. Must be a bad earth somewhere, just unsure where! CD's and radio sound perfect! Only thing done to my car is gauges installed, I doubt they'd interfere with the electrics that much, they're powered off cigarette lighter/traction control anyway, and work fine. Also its ex police so who knows what they've done, have seen a few wires around taillights etc that have been spliced into.

Nah its an ipod not phone, and everything I tried tested fine on my home theatre, its only in the car its making all funny noises. will try adding extra earths and see where that gets me.

No worries, will give the earths a go. I considered it initially, but sort of ruled it out as CD and FM work perfect. That and I expected the noise to be less, although its amped, its also meant to be filtered (I'd assume filter is before amp?) And no, wasn't charging while listening to the ipod. I had my gain on the BA529 box set at minimum, ipod was at full volume, and it was very loud, could only get it up to 20 or so, whereas cd's go to 23ish and radio 27ish. Thanks, will let you know how I go. Cheers, Dave

Hi, Got an ASL boosted/filtered AUX in for my bf2, and getting really bad noise coming through the speakers still, seems worse than previously when I was using an unboosted/filtered line in. Have sent it back and they tested it, said its all okay, but are sending me another one to try anyway. It sounds fine listening to CD and radio, so I dont think its an earth issue, but I'll add an extra one off the battery to be sure. I had the gain set on its minimum. another strange thing I noticed, it was making weird feedback/squealing noises when touching the back metal case of my iPod. Didn't do it with my phone or laptop connected. all of the devices used tested fine on my home theater system too. Any idea's what it could be? Car is ex police, perhaps they could have cut/spliced the loom somewhere? Thanks, Dave

Yeah I'd be interested to know too. I searched around after installing a tripod in my BF2 update, but couldn't find anything. Someone, somewhere reckon it could be done, but the stuffing around not worth it, and might lose some other function by doing so.

Flick the switch to 2 channel. Make sure your sub impedance is no less than 4ohm or you'll overload the amp. Connect the sub like in two channel output (mono) You wont need to connect a second speaker as per the pic, effectively that channel is just not being used.

longer studs I'm guessing? If I was going 15mm I'd use slip on's. Max I would go is 10mm, making them 19x8 +30, would fit nicely. However I don't think using a 10mm would leave enough stud. Difficult job to change the studs was it?

Yeah fair call I completely understand that, just wondering if there is an acceptable limit. Lots of things are illegal, yet we still do it. Different offsets also alter the stresses put on various steering & suspension components also. Dont really want bolt on's as that requires cutting the studs/fitting shorter ones. Don't really want to have to fit longer studs either. Much stud left with an 8mm slip on? Found this on another forum Seems they are legal, if signed off by a VASS engineer.

Or in that case get a proper manifold and turbo if you want it 'proper' Anyway know how far it opens and if a suitable gasket is available?

Morning, I have 19x8 +40 fronts with 245/35's, and want to space them out a bit. Not rubbing on anything at the moment, just looks a bit gay! Anyway, I know people HATE spacers, but realistically, am I likely to crash and die from using them? Also, whats the widest spacer that will safely fit on stock studs? Found these custom hubcentric slip on's http://www.wheelworx.com.au/spacers.html Only problem is our hub is 70.5 mm and my wheel is 73.1 mm, meaning the hubcentric ring would only be very thin. After peoples opinions or alternative options? Dave

Any luck building this yet?