1600dave

Nothing wrong with a surge tank at 300 either.

Whats your background, do you have any experience in the industry or relevant qualifications to help get a foot in the door?

It may be better, but it's not going to be great. Will never come close to even a cheap boxed 12". What you may consider enough bass some may think is crap, and vice versa, so only you can decide really

I went with the Remsa, advised to go them over the HPX, from two different suppliers that stock both. The Remsa fall in between the HPX & A1RM apparently.

May have cracks in the housing that's causing them to come loose

Just picked mine up, its been changed, will have a look when I get home tonight. Thanks for bringing this to our attention bionic!

Mines got a knock coming from the right front of late, happens sometimes when going round a corner, hitting a bump or entering a driveway etc. Thinking it may be a swaybar link.

Isn't BPR another mob who do mail order engine and trans tunes?? Might be worth the drive to melb.

My timing cover leaks oil, not like that though. block is oily at the front where the timing cover joins up. I also had a leak where my turbo oil drain pipe split near one of the top ribs, wasnt losing much oil but f*ck a little bit can make a big mess once the wind under the car catches it!

It seemed that simple at first! Might have to try calling another service department on Monday, see what they say my VIN brings up.

Yeah I dunno, the guy checked the VIN and said yep needs changing, then went and spoke to a parts guy (once he was off the phone), and came back to me and said they need it booked in to check it. I just thought I'd go in and ask as the date is close and I work a few hundred meters up the road from my Ford dealer.

I went in after work today and asked, they checked my VIN and said it needs replacing (built oct 07). The guy then spoke to someone else from parts then said they need to book it in to check if it needs replacing. Its going in next wednesday, be interesting to see what they say.

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/81367-Zf-Specialist-In-Sydney-?

350rwkw is more than enough to kill the trans. The owners manual or service book says to service the trans if it gets given a hard time.

I used the furious kit on my BF, had to piss off the passenger fog light and had to make up my own brackets. Might be able to move it somewhere in front of the intercooler once I get the Nizpro one installed, just wasn't sure how much room I'll have (have F6 cooler at the moment) It's easy enough to get your own cooler, hose's & fittings and just buy the adpater fittings from furious performance too. Pretty sure that's what CHLAXN did.

I got a bad vibration through the wheel when a front shock popped a seal.

http://www.vpw.com.a...gory/Index/5748 Not that cheap?

each kit needs to take into account the intercooler & piping arrangement if its mounted near the front of the car. Profile, Nizpro, Herrod & BTA all had something available when I was looking into it a few months ago.

My thermostat is stock temp (195 farenheit or 90 celsius), high flow. Sender for my aftermarket gauge is tapped into the top of the thermostat housing (have a Nizpro housing). Last night I started the car up & let it idle for about 3 mins, coolant temp got up to about 40 on my gauge, but Torque went up to 54 for coolant and 51 for Trans. Both the coolant and trans were at 14 before starting the car. My gauge reads about 85 when up to temp, will have to take it for a spin and see what the PID output reading is at the same time.

Anyone able to explain why on my phone using Torque, my coolant temp rises pretty quickly, while my actual coolant temp gauge on the dash barely moves, and my aftermarket gauge reads about 15deg below what torques showing, whilst warming up. Also, I was looking at the trans temp, which once the engine started, was rising almost as quickly as the coolant temp, about 3-4 degree's behind. Was using the Trans temp Method 1, so not sure how accurate this reading is. Was after some idea of whats happening as I'm installing an aftermarket trans cooler, so want to be able to keep an eye on what's going on with temps after I change it over seen as though the coolant wont be helping warm the box up anymore.

S is just slotted I think, G is the gold slotted and dimpled. The gold wears straight off, not sure what the purpose is. Might just be a typo, chase it up could be a bargain.

Only cost me $50 to get my brakes flushed, easier than messing around trying to do it yourself and you know it'll be done properly. I used the RDA gold slotted/dimpled, RDA7934G. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DRILLED-SLOTTED-FORD-BF-FG-XR6T-XR8-Front-Disc-Brake-Rotors-NEW-PAIR-/130757506457?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e71c13599 Didn't bother doing the rears, looking at the rotors and pads they do stuff all anyway.

I guess at the end of the day you really need to decide what you want them for and if it'll be seeing much track work or continuous hard braking. Mine weren't stuffed to begin with & were fine for everyday driving, just upgraded them anyway as the fluid needed a flush, and I use the car for towing so something that can handle the extra heat is a bonus. My Remsa pads were $77, they say they fit in between the QFM's HPX and A1RM pads. Rotors I paid $300 for the pair, delivered. Pretty sure Veva has the Project Mu pads, not sure which ones though.

The Remsa pads are meant to be good on softer rotors, was advised to go them over the QFM's

Just got my brakes done today, RDA gold front rotors, Remsa pads and braided lines front and rear.