Bulletime

Hey mate not much to report really hasnt fallen out and hasnt broken even though ive given it a regular floggin. Shifts are good, it didnt need to relearn even with some of the extra clutches replaced which is good because it tool about 10,000 kms to originally wear in. Real test will be wakefield park next year in the cooler weather. Keep seeing more and more ppl talking about the 6r80 conversion on facebook too so its definitely becoming the new go to. And given mustangs in the states are apparently doing 8 second quarters on stock boxes you can see why.

Ive just had mine converted and the trans shop did it all. I dropped the box off and they did the conversion then I picked it back up again to put back in the car. Theres a fair amount of custom machining, they said it was about a days work in that. They have to make the 6r80 shaft fit the zf internals. As arronm said just ask whoever your getting to do the conversion if itll be a direct fit or if theyll need the box.

Haha nope, it’ll live on my workbench till the Internet can figure out where it goes. Test drive tonight felt great, really happy no harsh shifts pretty smooth so hopefully it’s all done successfully, so long as there’s no pools of trans oil on the floor of the garage overnight it should be all good lol

Hey mate thanks for the reply, the two starter motor bolts were exactly the same and I’ve already got that in. Everything’s done up and torqued to spec and I still can find a home for this bolt. Really wish I knew of the glad bag with labels trick when taking this out. Just had to stop for dinner when the trans oil hit 50 degrees during the fill procedure but hopefully finish it off tonight and be able to drive to work tomorrow. Wheels turn though so it’s looking good

6r80 conversion is done, they reckon it’s about twice as big as the zf and it’s all one size, it doesn’t step down like the original zf does. Apparently an extra gear behind the shaft too (inside planetary or something, dunno talkin out my arse now). They basically lined up the 6r80 and the original zf and make it all fit together so it’s 6r80 from about half way up the gearbox. A couple of the eclutches were gone as well which was the cause of metal in the pan and the exedy extra clutches are apparently originally designed for the 6r80 anyway even though they work in the zf. A few of them 4,5,6? eclutches were replaced due to wear. Been chipping away on reinstalling the box over the last couple of days, few hrs here and there each day, a sick child and a death in the family (not related thankfully) have slowed me down a bit. But with help from my wife it’s bolted up to the bell housing and just still have to do the torque converter, tailshaft and fluids. I do need one bit of advice though, I have one bolt I can’t find a home for, the heads about 13mm like the smaller bell housing bolts but it’s much longer. But I can’t figure out where it goes and since it’s been about 2 months since I took her out my memory is completely shot. I have the workshop manuals but can’t put a finger on where this one goes. Bottom one All these guys are accounted for (12 though they don’t have 13 arrows, is the misprint a missing arrow or 13 not 12??, still can’t see a place for this guy on the engine side of the bell housing). Also took the opportunity to install a bigger engine oil cooler for the race track, literally not a mm left for a bigger cooler, fitted the biggest I could. Derale oil cooler racing line.

Agreed. I putt around most the time but I have a few roads I can open her up on. Besides that’s what racetracks are really for [emoji48]

I’ve thought about doing a 2015 territory. No time or money atm though and it might just end up ruining it. It’s surprising how good the na barra actually is tbh. I enjoy driving the wife’s na territory even though I have a 400rwkw e85 daily fg. Stick the territory in performance and floor it everywhere it’s great!

Don’t have the funds, kinda like the auto anyway except for the obvious. I’m just special I suppose. Good point on the quickjacks they come with 8 rubber blocks and u can double them up for height, might just get me there. If it’s not genuine then we have different problems. Interesting they normally clean break not fragment, again makes me extra lucky.. I’m thinking the torque converter must be gone too because there was plenty of horrible sounds that the input shaft wouldn’t be making.

Well that was ducking (thanks autocomplete) hard work. Not actually the transmission removal but other stupid sh*t! Started well when in the first step of removing starter motor I broke a brand new shifting spanner on the pita top bolt. Getting to the rear nuts in the tailshaft and one of the cross member support bolts behind my huge 4 inch exhaust were all hell, even attempts to remove parts of the exhaust and failed. The transmission itself the removal was fine, it is mega tall though, she won’t be coming out from under the car, even with my quickjacks, not unless I can slide it on the ground or something, there might be a tiny bit more I can raise the car but it won’t be on it’s locking bars. Hopefully repairs are possible under the car. So I’m no mechanic but the flex plate looks fine and the input shaft does not. Will see what my options are to get going again.

Ok thanks mate I’ll see how I’m going and if it’s getting a bit dicey I might grab you haha. Getting the starter motor out was a bitch!

How do u make sure it doesn’t slide off the jack or the blocks of wood? At 84 kgs it’s heavy, I’ve seen YouTube videos of people using ratchet straps around it but yeah it’s just got me thinking it is really well balanced or yeah how with where it’s supported by the jack and some wood does that stop it sliding or toppling off?

Ok thanks guys I’ve got a bit of clearance under my quickjacks, it gets it up to 477mm. I’ve got a steel pan but it doesn’t have a drain plug, I’ve ordered a new one and I’ll put this one in the territory, good time for a zf service now anyway. I’ve got some thick bench off cuts I was thinking of mounting to my jack but if regular bits of wood have been ok then I might just rest the off cut on the jack and ratchet strap it all. I’ve already checked I can get the jack under easily.

Cheers Keith I hope so too! Just watched this video he uses a mega long extension to get to those top bolts. Do you need to drop the pan or just open the filler hole, also he talks about the steel pan being thrown away after lowering it, is it safe supporting and lowering it from the pan with a jack and what I guess some blocks of wood?

Spiro said flex plate from the noise. Cheap to fix. Hopefully drop the box later in the week to confirm then get it back on the road!

Spiro at autotech, built box was done 21 months old

Those pro works one looks like good value, unless they’re sh*t? Didn’t realize a manual conversion was that much cheaper than all out on the auto. Still I might be dreaming but I’d like to get going again for a lot less than 5-6k. Ahh cars hey, u think they’re going good then bang lol and never at a good time. I’ll see what a 6r80 shaft and the modifications to have it work with the 6hp26 cost and the various places and ways to make that happen from diy some of it to handing it to someone. I also might see what my tuna says, I’m in Canberra and he’s in Sydney.

Ok thanks I’ll see what I can find or if anyone else in the know chimes in. Might see if any of the local transmission places sound like they know what they’re doing. Haven’t ever considered a manual tbh, given I track it it’s not crazy to consider due to temps but I do love the auto and it is quicker probably everywhere but maybe the track? Also nfi on costs too. I have recently got temps under control with a huge oil cooler on the transmission. I might take some time off work later in the week, get the zf out and see what bits falls out, might make some calls tomorrow too

How are the internals of a US zf stronger than a billet input shaft that’s heat treated with all the bells and whistles? Am seeing now a few threads that the 6r80 internals is the path to take for a trouble free zf. I wonder how much we’re talking for that kind of custom work [emoji17] and who (Canberra isnt that well known for this sort of work)

That’s not too bad depending on the converter and custom machining, would they just need the transmission? Found this but read a few horror stories about rvo transmissions. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253472372994 These guys also have one with all the bells and whistles so I wonder if they’d have the bits id need https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264410059881 What does a 6r80 come from?

Ok thanks for the feedback, I’ll have to do some reading on the 6r80, I thought a 2k billet input shaft should do the job but maybe with the zf tune and track work it was just too much. I was running full slicks on the rear for the first time. Also did hit the rev limiter in third earlier in the day. 409rwkw On e85 with a gtx3576, she gets up and boogies in the mid range. If it’s input shaft hopefully I could replace that myself, assuming it’s not tooo difficult and the 6r80 isn’t insanely priced?

Ok thanks. It sounds like I might be using your guide! Not sure if I should make a new thread but built zf billet input shaft lost all drive at wakefield in 3rd to 4th, went bang and then clunky clunk. Surely shouldn’t be input shaft but yeah what are ppls thoughts from the sounds? Thinking I’ll save some money maybe getting the zf out myself and taking it somewhere as opposed to getting the car towed then paying for removal... at least that’s what I’m thinking atm, happy to be convinced one way or another.

Ok cheers

What about quickjacks, they go to 447 mm?

Can it be done on ramps or do u need a hoist for clearance?

My tuna put in a setrab one but it’s too small and doesn’t have a fan. I’m a fan of derale coolers, I have a 25 row hypercooler in for the transmission with a pretty thick core and it’s awesome, I also have a pwr heat exchanger in line (did this years ago to avoid the milkshake) and I live in Canberra so want it getting up to temp https://derale.com/products/fluid-coolers/universal/remote-mount2013-10-28-09-53-271073910258/13-row-plate-fin-engine-oil-cooler-kit-with-spin-on-adapter-detail. They now have a racing line and it’s even thicker, it’ll be a tight squeeze but I’ll be upgrading to this soon with a thermostatic fluid control to only let it go through the cooler once it’s up to temp and fan also thermostatically controlled. https://derale.com/product-footer/fluid-coolers/engine/remote-mount/65860-detail