tichman

2009 G6ET, put a Derale 7000 Oil/Trans Cooler Kit x Large #13205 which is a 10 pass derale 1/2 inch cooler behind the intercooler after moving lower rad mounts back about 10-15mm. 1/2" hosing with 1/2" fittings into side of trans. Its a big cooler and gets to about 58-60 degrees max on the pan, shifts fine and cant fault it. Have fitted same one to 2 BAs BTRs with no issues either, spacing lower rad mounts back each time.

Yep, detectors are legal, po po use KA band, pole mounted and MOBILE speed cameras use K band, X Band isnt used at all so with an STI or similar have only KA and Laser on to avoid falsing, I turn on K band only when travelling between cities, not around home base as such. Go on trademe and pick up an STI for $350 odd, they're a good unit, get the amplified speaker too if you can to hear it over the radio etc and hardwire in. Don't leave it low on the screen with a curly cord advertising its presence when parked unattended as the thieving f--ks will have it quick as a flash and on sold on TM.

Hmmm BA ghia blows cold passengers side only, figured the ole broken rod so pulled seats, column, dash etc and rods are fine, so are he doors in the heater unit. Friendly Ford chap suggested the HIM would have a dodgy mototr so opened the HIM, tested the motors (12v) and they are all good, so took the HIM to local wreckers, plugged it into a Fairlane ghia, powered it up and the HIM responded to all inputs from the ICC controls.... this ruled out the HIM as the problem. Rang Ford again and service manager mentioned one of the guys (who was away that day) has a way of resetting the units which annoyed me no end considering had I known this I'd have done that first rather than pulling the dash etc. Soooo went back home and reinstalled everything back into the Ghia and reconnected the battery (disconnected to take dash out, didn't want an airbag going of or anything silly whilst mucking about with it) fired her up and what do you know, the bloody thing works again! Well, that all went well until trying it again after fitting seats, A and B pillar covers, door rubbers etc and stuff me if the battery is now too flat to start the car (interior lights been on while refitting seats etc) soooo jump start the car, take for decent drive to charge batt and get the motor warm and..... it's blowing cold on passengers side again!!! Figured I'd try the disconnect battery trick and left it like that overnight, hooked it back up next morning and it's all good again...FFS!! So, in summary, I would suggest the battery can indeed have an effect on the dualzone and trying that option first is wayyyy easier than pulling the dash etc only to find it aint the rod or door hinges. Regards, someone who's done it.

Can anyone shed some light on this issue, I've pm'd Gazza to se if he had sorted it on his car but didn't get a reply. Have just got the pcm back and from start car idled at 1500 (maybe resetting the itself?) test drive and it is still the same, seems to be even more prone to this flaring boost on gradual throttle application, wot from 2000 rpm sees the boost climb clean to 8 then on to 15+ as the revs/sped increases. On the new inlet piping I've got the blow off valve in front of the map sensor by 300-400mm, so the map is between the bov and throttle body. Could this be having any effect? Also of question is the new Garret turbine housing with 35mm flapper valve which seemed like a new off the shelf item and not my old housing ported with 38mm flapper valve as requested by the people that did it in Auckland (who also supplied and fitted the 12lb TS actuator). I did ring them when I got the turbo back prior to fitting it and the tuning etc and questioned the size of the flapper and hole and was assured it was ample for what I was doing and they had sold a lot of them with no problems reported. This is starting to p-ss me off a fair bit as there seems to be no light at the end of the tunnel and looks like I'm going to have to make another trip back to Auckland to the tuner...... Anyone know of this problem and the solution to it???

Sorry to drag up an old thread but I've got similar issues and am keen to hear what the cause of all this was, can someone please shed some light on this? Thanks.

Just an update, dunno whats causing this still as with just the 7lb spring in the actuator, at wot from 2000 rpm in 3rd gear manual mode (4sp btr) it goes up to 8, then 10 and climbs up to 15 creeping to 16 at 5000-5200 rpm. It pulls cleanly in that scenario but when in D and giving it slow but steady throttle it does the boostcut dance on the guage, up/down repeatedly and in quick succession. This happens with actuator plumbed both direct from turbo and/or going through solenoid which is disabled anyway so no surprise there. Will be sending pcm back to tuner for tweaking to see if we can get this spiking sorted out as when it pulls clean it runs well. Still well keen to hear of anyone elses solutions to this if there is any. Cheers.

Hey bomber, gave that a go, blocked bov pipe with 1" bit of broom handle and plugged the vacuum line but after a few go's on it it's the same thing just a lot of flutter with bov blocked off. Took turbo off and was hardly open at 10lb from airline, about 30degrees at 15 psi. Rod from actuator wasn't lined up with pin on flapper arm properly either putting a sideways load on the rod that wouldn't be helping it move to freely I'd have though. Realigned snail to bring the rod inline with the pin. Have taken the 5lb spring out of the actuator leaving the 7lb in there and now on 10psi its open as much as it was on 15 on the 12lb springs, at 15lb from the airline its well and truly open so think that will solve the overboosting to 17 once running through the solenoid again, looking to go around the 13lb mark. Will reassemble tomorrow and road test.

cheers, I'll give that a go on the weekend.

Hey Gazza, I've been searching for past posts on what I think might be the same issue and found yours to be the closest to what I'm getting the pip with. Any update on what this was being caused by? I'm down in Hawkes Bay and have just had a tune done on similar mods on 03 ute using 36mm flapper on new housing, 42lb injectors, 450x400x75mm cooler, 2.5 inch hot and cold side with cold side going under passengers headlight with factory bov mounted there feeding back behind rad support panel into 3" intake where battery was with K&N in a box, map sensor located on pipe between bov and throttle body, no cat, in tank walbro, atomic springs, turbosmart 12lb actuator and its going to 14-15 psi spiking to 17 even piped straight from the turbo to the actuator, biggest problem though is the surge or boostcut or whatever it is on around 30% throttle accelerating that has it climb to around 12 then drop really abruptly to around 5, then straight back to 12, cut back abruptly to 5 over and over in really quick succession, making a noise each time. Quite often on WOT it just pulls really cleanly to 15 psi spiking to 17 feeling quite good. It didn't do this boostcut or surge thing whatever it is on the dyno but started once Id left the shop and was giving it a bit on the motorway (this was in Auckland by the way, 4-5 hrs away), rang tuner and went back and he is looking into it and we are thinking maybe pulling the 5 lb spring out of the actuator to drop it to 7 so we can use the factory solenoid to move things back towards 12 ( have a sedan with same mods except for Monza cooler and stock piping, standard in tank pump, and 38mm flapper mod on original housing that makes 290rwkw at 11 psi) which is what I was trying to replicate with the ute but figured with better cooler/piping/intake it would be even more efficient. This car was tuned 3 1/2 years ago and is still going strong by the same tuner as has just done the ute and he has done many many 6ts over the years so we are both somewhat stumped as to whats going on with this surge/boostcut carry on. If anyone has an insight into whats causing this I'd be very happy to hear it.

Had lake pipes (tats what theyre called here) on an AU2 xr8 manual ute and later on a BA2 xr8 manual ute. The AU wasnt as bad for bottoming out as the BA (heavier motor maybe? was mounted slightly differently at headers)but it became a case of negotiating speed humps etc slowly and or crossing on an angle. Theyre legal here as long as they exit behind the rear most door , so on a ute that's pretty easy to do if its near the wheel . The internal pipes were 2 1/4 inch perforated tube wrapped in exhaust packing the full lenght of the muffler, (nothing in the chrome ends) slid inside a 3 inch outer pipe with chrome round hole perf heat shields held on with exhaust clamps migged to the back of the guards one each end of the guard. Balance pipe just below headers of about 2 inch diameter. Flowed well and had a distinctive sound, got quite loud if given a bootful but was a nice rumble just tootling about.