Jamsey

thanks guys for the replies. I do try and be careful when going up driveways, on my home driveway it doesnt matter what angle or speed I try, at half lock it always touches. im going to roll the guards, is this something worth getting done professionally? and what places to this type stuff? ill also add some camber to. off topic, but, I really miss my xr6t, I like the sound of the full exhaust on the 8, but compared to my 6 (even when it was stock) I swear it doesnt have anywhere near the balls. especially pulling through 2nd from a low speed, just no pull till just under 4k, lucky its only temporary

Hi, My xr8 was lowered before I bought it and I am having issues with the front guards hitting the tyres. on level ground lock to lock it juuuust makes it under the guard. but if im going up ANY driveway whilst turning it scraped the crap out of the guard and my tyre. I have rolled the guards back in once before but the same day they got pushed back out (actually on the first drive lol) the rears sit just inside the guard on the stock 18's with 245/34/18 on it. and the front I cant put my finders above the tyre, do you think its a ssl front and sssl rear setup? I have two pics, the first is of whats happening to guard, and the second is the only one I have of the whole car to TRY show how it sits. I need some ideas how to stop the guard rolling out. it doesnt make for a comfortable drive knowing im ruining the car over every driveway and speed bump. if you want a pic from side on ill get one 2morro when dads car isnt in the way

I know you have it sorted, but did u try Action Automotive? I have been told everyone says the guys there are great! and love fords.

yeah its on the register of repairable writeoffs, the mate ill bring with me to check her out is a auto electrician, and if I get the car at this cheap price I wont think twice about selling it off if I encounter the first signs of troubles. it isnt going to be my main car anyway. Is there anything in particular I can have a look at or get checked which might save me some trouble in the future? I always heard such terrible things about xr8 performance, I thought wow it cant be THAT bad can it. im intrigued on racing my t against it. I reckon from a stand still the T's torque will just eat it up, but maybe from a roll on the 8 will give it a run. god im getting all excited.

hi guys, I know this is the xr6 turbo forums but im already a member here, and your all top blokes. so anyway, I have the opportunity to possibly get a BA xr8, its manual, done 150,000km, quad exhaust, cai. its going to be mainly for my girlfriend to drive in. its story is that it had water run through it (while parked) just up to the bottom of the doors, theres no mould in the car and smells like a normal car. I drove it, it drives fine all electricals work. and I have looked into the necessary things to get it registered, and that would be literally just changing oils. it has been having trouble selling for 8 grand. and I have been told if I offer 8 I would most likely get it. my question is, what are the issues with ba xr8's? are the engines strong? reliable (for its km's)? I know the 5 speeds are way stronger than the t5's the xr6's get. I will be having a very good look around the car when I see it again about the water that has run through it. but again I have driven it and nothing was wrong. and I have ppl I know who can get it registered for me with minimal work. what do you guys think? p.s I also wanna race it again my T...

haha yeah I made the mistake of mentioning d&t to him once before, never again lol. tell us how it goes, im going to be modding my xr6t soonish and am aiming for 300+

Theres a place called car concepts near the "city", its in the same little complex as zone 3 (the laser shooting game), the guy in there might be able to give u some help, he only works on fords, specifically the turbo ones. the guys name is Kev I think, but I really cant remember. Hi tech tuning is another tuner that has apparently done a few xr6t's, I recommend to stay away from D&T, as I have only ever heard bad things about them. Im disappointed peckys hasnt been able to help you more than they have, I find them to be great a bunch and pretty ontop of their game. Darwin isnt big enough to have a bunch of places that know xr6t inside and out which is a shame. but peckys would always be my first suggestion.

im usually averaging 12.5-14.0 during the week, I fill up sunday nights. weekend fuel usage is usually a fair bit higher, the average is usually at 18.x by the time I fill up on sunday. heres my record, in the ba non turbo ute

3.9's would make first end at around 70. which is what the 5 speed manual xr6t's do in 1st. I dont think 4.11's would be over the top short. the 6 speed autos 1st gear top speed is comparable to the 4speed auto with 4.8 ratios.

thanks for your help ratter. ill see if I can get a shim from somewhere. theres only 2 places here in darwin that said they do diffs. and one lace said they wont do a ratio change for me as its too much trouble with the "machining" and the other place quoted 1800$ to do what I did with the 4.11's. that's the only reason I did it myself, I didnt really trust I had done enough of them to try a full ratio change with all new measurements and setup. but I have a bit more confidence in them.

they are still difficult to get in, but obviously not tight fitting enough if they have the ability to move. ill do a tooth contact test during the week. when I put the mini spooled centre in there was no porblems. im guessing that's because the lsd centre and the mini spool centre both used bearing rebuild kits that I bought. the open centre one has never been rebuilt, and therefore is using the bearings from the manufacturer, which is apparently slightly different to ones u buy in rebuild kits today. would it be worth opening this diff up again and try and see if I can push the centre towards the pinion by using like a screwdriver to try lever some movement in, and make enough space to fit a tiny shim, or just a thin piece of metal in there to try hold it in place? I bet I could jam a paper clip between the shim and housing

I checked tooth contact when I put the mini spool centre in and it was spot on. ill recheck it for this centre. yes the gears were always kept as a matching set and were the original gearset used when I set all preloads and depth etc and when I did this I collapsed the spacer and set clearance and preload, this was set up 100% with the lsd centre, and whenever I changed carriers (mini spool, then open) I always kept the 3.45 gearset.

Ill start with some background information. the car is a BA non xr ute (I know its an xr6t forum, but I thought I would ask for help anyway) a year or two ago I grabed some 3.45 gears and bought a reco'd lsd and rebuilt the diff. it was all excellently put together if I say so myself and worked great. it later became the burnout car when I bought my 1st xr6t. the lsd worked ok for abit but spun singles quite quickly. so I got another diff housing and built a mini spooled 4.11 diff. the diff lasted for ages doing burnouts and loving every second of it (the auto didnt love it much though :( ) until I bought a new auto and decided to wreck the old one by doing D bombs. and the diff stripped most of its teeth off with a spectacular BANG. many LOLS were had. so to get a diff working I just chucked the mini spool centre into the 3.45 diff that had the lsd in it. I was surprised that it worked so well without re measuring anything. so that diff lasted for the rest of the cars life as a burnout car. then I bought a newer xr6t and decided the first xr6t would become the new burnout car (recycling cars) and the old ute can have a rest. I then decided its time to sell the ute as it wasnt being driven much at all. so I scored a non lsd diff out of a vn calais, and agan just swapped the centres, this centre fit in a little too easy and had a bit of backlash. this ( surprisingly) ended up working really well. no noises or anything. this lasted about a week and a half (drove maybe 150km) then one day I drove it up to get fuel as I had it advertised in the paper and it now howled when I backed off the accelerator, only above 40km/h though. the first thing I did was chuck half a bottle of that moreys oil stabilizer in but it didnt work. so what causes noise on overrun? shallow pinion depth ( or atleast that's what trade school taught me). my theory was that maybe since its a tad bit loose in the diff that maybe when I first put it together the crown gear sat properly on the pinion gear and the gears meshed up properly. but since theres that slight movement left to right in the diff the centre had moved away from the pinion enough to create this howl. so I went in with high hopes. I drained the oil took off the cover and took off the end cap brace things. and this is what I saw I thought, yep! theres the problem. and tapped it back into place, and also tapped th eother side down which had also risen a bit. then I chucked it all back together. and the gears look to sit on eachother fine when I chucked the end cap things on I noticed they didnt cover the actual shim. I cant remember if it should or not. I assume it should, but it doesnt. whats the go with this? are they meant to support the shim (it makes sense that it would) heres how it sits I added some of that oil stabilizer in the oil again just finish off the bottle. and took it for a test drive. I took it up to 60 and all was good. no noise when I coasted at all. then to 80 and coasted, and at first there was no noise, but then the noise came back, definately not as loud, but it was still there, and u cant not hear it. so it didnt work. would anyone have any ideas of what else I can try? I was told to chuck some sawdust in there just so I can sell it. but that's kinda dodgy, and I dont want to be that guy. im pretty confident the diff isnt going to crap itself any time soon, and im confident the car will be reliable for the next owner. but the noise is not an attractive feature, and would be much preffered not there. so any ideas of what could be done? or if I may have missed something, or did something wrong. anything input at all would be great and sorry for the long post.

so how did it all go?

look what I found. do these figures look accurate for the 2.7 ratio?