r32dan

cheers mate......I replaced it with an aftermarket item a while ago which caused my consumtion to actually increase. I then ordered this one and thought , here we go again.....so its good to hear it works fine....thanks

thanks guys.....yeah daztbo my next comment was to mention that ba's only have one sensor......did you find an improvement in fuel consumtion after replacing it?

Hey guys, I have ordered a new o2 sensor for my 2004 ba xr6t. It was a NTK version bought from ebay. It has come in genuine ford packaging, and was definately in the list on the ad for a Ba turbo, amoung other models... Problem is, the actual tip of the sensor appears to be slightly different in design to my original.....instead of long thin cutt outs to allow the gasses to pass through sensor tip, this one has small holes instead? Is this ok to use ? Has anyone else found this same issue ? Did ford have a 02 sensor design change after 2004 ?

Usually its just the throttle body that needs cleaning....But seeing they already did that do the following things in this order..... 1. Double check they actually did clean the throttle body (that's free at least) 2. Check wires comming from the back of the rocker cover that control the cam timming. They can melt to the point were they sort of arc out on each other! (also free unless you use an auto sparky) 3. replace throttle position sensor. (attatched to throttle body, about 70 bucks on ebay) 4. replace 02 sensor (about the same price on ebay....make sure its a NTK) 5. If you havent already.....replace your coil packs (approx 150 ebay) Good luck

thanks guys for the kind words.... Yes, the old valve springs.......personally I have not worried as I have only as much power as my standard injectors can handle. If you are considering bigger injectors, then yes definately! Probably the most important thing on that list I would say is the front lower control arm bushes! Do them before anything. They are actually dangerous. You will think its brake shudder...BUT ITS NOT......... I have seen four B Series falcons have this problem just recently, and a couple of them including me nearly got into strife at high speed. I was comming down the gateway bridge in Brisabane and all of a sudden a small wobble began in my steering. Then the wobble turned into a violent bloody wobble making it hard to stay in my lane. Keep in mind im doing 100kmph down a steep decline. It was not pleasant! Replace it with the super pro item. Also you will find the ford ipod booster and the ASL item I described are very similar as is their price, except for one thing! the ford item does not have a switch for noise reduction. I have heard complaints about the ford item for this reason.Something to consider. And dont bother with the passive ebay ones, they have no volume, they are sh*t. All of them hook up the same way as each other, so dont worry about ease of installation!

ASL does a specific ipod kit that boosts the signal. It's Reasonably priced, easy to install and has a switch to turn off the charging is causing too much noise. It also retains the use of your steering wheel buttons! Things you will need to do to your BA before modifing....Trust me. If the car has done more than 100K then you will need to do these things if they have not been done already. This will cause you less hair loss and time spent searching the formus trying to figure out problems for yourself as they arrive. New coils packs. (they are sh*t - cause of many issues) New O2 sensor (make sure its the factory one - helps fuel consumption amoung otehr things ) New shocks (standard ones are crap qaulity and are flogged at 100K) front suspension bushes (These are reall sh*t and are actually dangerous when f*%ked) New spark plugs plugs (just do them - gap 0. diff seals (they'll be leakin if they have not already been done) give the auto service ( I recomend a trans cooler at the same time.) remove the inline turbo filter (stupid design that is meant to protect your turbo but actually starves it of oil ? ) tighten manifold bolts (joys of owning a turbo) Now you can consider modifing and really blowing some cash! If this sort of list scares you, dont buy one, or spend the extra 15grand and buy an FG which has less gremlins and is generally better built. Personally I dont mind this stuff, as ive owned heaps of turbos and am a succer for punishment. If you do these things, modify sensibly, service reguarly they are a cheap fast car. If I have not scared you off buying a BA and your still keen, use this list as a barganing tool when buying. Ask if they have done these items! Good luck

I have xcal 2 and I am only going for around 270rwkw....... do the green tops fit straight in without modification? I have noticed there are two types on ebey.....1. actual Bosch green tops......& 2. unbranded green top 42lbs that look identical. anyone familiar with this? Oh yeah there also appears to be a seimens 60bls copy as well. 270 dollars new.

thanks for the advice guys.......I usually check these things really thoroughly on this site before I dive in and buy something, but for some reason I didn't this time. Oh well! The new NTK is on the way so all should be good..... Thanks again!

Just ordered genuine ntk item. Am planning on custom tune, but want to be sure everything is right though. The reason I mentioned the extra air intake is because when u increase airflow on imports they generally get poorer fuel consumtion. Saying that these things run map sensors as opposed to maf, and I am not as knowledgable with map sensors and how they work exactly

EV6 BOSCH FUEL INJECTORS 440CC 42LB they are always on ebay cheap....are they any good. Tried searching info on them but not much available ?

Ok I had a bad feeling about the o2. Just out of interest though is there any chance the extra air intake could be contributing as well?

Hi guys, I have recently made two similtainious changes to my xr6t BA auto... 1. second snorkel off the air box & 2. replaced the old o2 sensor with an aftermarket item (CGB or GCB is the brand)...... anyway since doing so I have actually lost fuel consumtion. It is doing about 20L/100km around town driving fairly sensibly and about 15 on the highway. I realise they are bad on fuel but it has definately gotten worse than it was. Only other mod is generic 10psi flash that has been on the car for over a year. The car is running smooth and has no issues, just slurping more juice..... Thoughts ?

hey "sideways82" its funny that you mentioned doing the rear only. I was wondering what that would be like, as it is really the weakest link in my opinion. when you say it wasn't quick can you elaberate on that. I figured it might make the rear more predictable, rather than offering violent spontanious tank slapping moments! Also can you tell me - with the adjustable links, do you extend or shorten them to stiffen the bar? Cheers.

Just an update on my dodgy sway bar modification.......It worked.....but! If you dont drill the holes perfecty straight and as close as physically possible to the size of the original hole you get problems. The sway bar link gets movement and gets an annoying clicking noise to it. I could fix this wth some high tensile washers but I have returned to the original hole because I found that the stiffer front setting actually caused more roll in the rear. I reckon without doing the rear it really stuffs up the balance of the car. After performing this experiment I would honestly say that I would not spend money on sway bars unless I purchased both at once, as all it did was cause a little extra understeer, and more body roll in the rear than before! Too be honest, lowered springs and reasonable shocks makes for a pretty nice all rounder with the standard bars. In saying that I am still considering spending the money and purchacing both bars.....but I dont want to be disapointed after spending all that cash, as I could be spending it on something elseas I am modifing on a budget. Food for thought anyways.

I'll give the high temp fluid a go over the next week

38 psi on standard 17 inch rims. Am running slight negative camber and have excellent even tyre wear. Have brand new shocks. Have tried running as high as 41 psi, but honestly it makes a very small amount of difference from 38 psi to the weight of the steerin, and will only end in uneven tyre wear and poor front end traction in poor conditions.

Hello Peoples, I have always noticed that my steering is a little heavy. I know of two other BA XR owners that notice the same thing with theirs and have told me its normal. One of these guys actually likes it, but its starting to get to me a bit. It didn't worry me at first, but after you drive a diferent car you really notice it hopping back in. I have had a lot of performance cars and I'd have to say a lighter feeling wheel is better in just about all kinds of driving conditions, especially daily driving..... After doing a search I found one thread where the advice given to someone with the identical complaint, was to change the torsion bar to a "springier" one ? ? ? He also mentioned that power steering pump pressures can be played with, but is not the preffered answer...... Me being me, Im thinking the later sounds possibly easier.......any thoughts......there must be someone out there that felt the same way as I do and has done something to improve it? PS....I am near certain there is nothing mechanically wrong with my steering apart from maybe oldish power steering fluid, but I am presuming it couldn't make to much diference?

Are injector spaces a big deal or expensive. Basically is it worth the stuffing around when there are straight swap after market injectors for reasonable prices. I just want something simple to install, and cheap, hence why I am looking into the fg injector option, as I have seen them for very reasOnable prices and they are capable of 300 rwkw which is more than enough for me.

hey guys, I am considering fg injectors for my BA xrt as I am not chasing massive figures just a little more than I have now. Are the fg injectors a simple swap in item, and would they require a retune straight away, or will they run fine on my current edit until I can extract some more cash from the wife? Cheers.....

cool I think I'll give it a go just to see what happens. I'll let u know how it goes!

Hey guys, I was looking at my standard sway bar (front) and noticed there is enough room to drill a second hole just behind the standard bolt holes. This would theoretically make the bolts closer the bushes, and inturn stiffen the sway bar setting. My question is, can anyone see an issue in doing so? The bolt holes on the "whiteline" adjustable bars are only mm's apart from each other yet supposedly make a noticable difference between each setting. I cant see why it cant be done to the standard one at a cost of zero dollars! What's your thoughts.

thanks for the reply mate. I have changed the battery and I would have to say it also made a slight improvement to the problem. I have had a mechanic tell me that these cars require good quality powerfull bateries to avoid unusual electrical problems!

hey guys, ever since I bought this car about 6 months ago it has had an issue with starting but only sometimes. initially it would happen about one in five times. after a flash tune it reduced to about 1 in ten. basically when it happens it turns over well, but just doesn't fire? it takes a few goes and on the last I have to hold it on for a while to get it to fire. the other nine times out of ten it fires perfectly? weird. it has had its fuel filter changed, plugs changed and gapped to .8, and new coils. I have heard of some trick to reset the tps - hold foot flat while turning over engine for ten seconds. is this correct, and would it help my situation? also I have yet to clean out my throttle body since purchace, could this be a factor? your help would be appreciated as the existing topics when I searched for similar threads dont quit match my problem.....cheers

this all sounds wrong to me...they might not be the worlds best manual, but they shouldn't have a delay when you push the clutch in, which is how im reading this. either there is something electronically wrong (throttle delay, tuning?) or possibly an issue with the clutch engaging, otherwise it can only be the driver.....my wife is a driving trainer, perhaps she could help!