dbXR60

I did the cheap ass solution. From 60 km/h 6 stop with heavy brakes (say 80% brake application, not lockup / not triggering ABS) to 20km/h and then ride back up to 60kmh and repeat. Pick a quiet time an quiet place. The aim is to get through the stop/starts and have a 5 to 10 min cool down period as well. This means no matter what, you do not come to a full stop. If you think you will, don't try this. After 2 or 3 stops, or maybe 3 or 5, it will stink like hell. This is exactly what you should expect. We are burning the brake crap shudder off. Solved my 80-50 shudder no problems. You all owe me a keg for each shudder I save

Seriously, OP, your question is how long is a piece of string.

Straight line vs twistys vs cost (purchase + maintenance) Pick any 2. There is your answer.

I had brochures given to me that say the redstuff are 'fast road use and occasional track use', and that bluestuff are 'dedicated race car, track use only' !!! Good to hear from people with experience in both these pads. Did a bit of digging, and the Aus site seems a bit out of date with info on bluestuff. The US Site has a bit more info, and mention "biggest advantage of EBC Bluestuff NDX is their bite from cold". What setup you running rotor/caliper/car wise scatterbrain? And how pricey were the blues compared to reds?

At Wakefield, don't you have a few shortish sessions? So it is kinda like the shorter events that ScatterBrain refers to? So, I would have thought the Redstuff would have been the recommended pad given OP only did a couple of track days there. From what I've heard the downside on the yellows and blues is they take a while to get up to temp, which ain't always great on the street?

Looks nice. Very disappointed at the lack of black skid marks on that concrete where you took the shots :o

Transmission ZF fix for BF2: Speechless. I have no speech.

Some insurers seem to be trying to take advantage on renewals - not just greenslips, but all types of insurance. I noticed GIO trying this out on my elderly parents. Ring them up and they reduce the price significantly - hundreds of dollars. F them, I still swtich to someone else. Not doing business with anybody trying to pull such a shamefull rip off.

Cripes don't say you have a BF, or you'll have Jetsnot , RHR, and Dillz all over you like a rash! THIS IS A FG THREAD!!! lol

Recommend you read a couple of threads and save yourself some bucks: Sound deadening a vehicle "On the outer skin, 50% coverage of dynamat extreme (or any butyl/alu deadener) is probably about as much as you can use before you start wasting money big time and getting tiny improvements for large costs." Proper sound deadening (Dynamat) technique "You don't need to plaster the entire inside of the car with dynamat. Simply put 1-2" strips of the stuff over about 20-30% of the surface of the panels, in a chevron, or checkerboard pattern. This will get you 95% of the sound improvement of a full application without all that wasted mass or expense." But really, Dynamat and similar are really about reducing vibration, not sound deadening per se... db

Nearly all tyres are required to have a Universal Tyre/Tire Quality Guide (aka UTQG). It often looks like 280 AA A, 460 B C etc. I think it's always stamped on the tyre, though it may not be readily available in advertising or specs provided by companies. The number is the treadwear rating, followed by a traction rating, then a temperature resistance rating. Here's an explanation of UTQG. The traction/grip rating says: "UTQG Traction Grades are based on the tire's straight line wet coefficient of traction as the tire skids across the specified test surfaces. The UTQG traction test does not evaluate dry braking, dry cornering, wet cornering, or high speed hydroplaning resistance". Sound pretty useless? I'd pay more attention to the ratings of tyre tests and, eg from people surveys over at Tirerack than the UTQG ratings. Unless all you do is brake in the wet....

Found your vid on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veOcZjuQoko From 4:15 is classic. Get used to it.

I had mentioned in each of my posts that I was talking about my BF2, but it's your site. If you want a thread on the same topic for every model, hey, that's your call. Perhaps someone could 'Report' my posts as off-topic and a mod could do some 'moderation' and delete my posts in this thread so as to make it 'less confusing' for people. Thanks

Gee, so sorry for posting some information that might be useful for members of other models. I didn't realise this was now FGFordXR6turbo.com

From pics I've seen elsewhere, seems like the plug in my BF2 might be different. I think these AUTOMOTIVE 2-WAY PLUG/SOCKET - 250 SERIES - 2 WAY (PP-2602) from Jaycar are what I'm after.