spoolxr6

I bet him being cautious comes at about a $1000 price tag for you though, yeh?

On a related note can anyone tell me if there is a reason the cams are removed to change the valve springs? To be able to access the springs with a tool the valve train gear must be removed.

Just thought I'd add that Garrett turbochargers are now manufacturing in China as well.

I bought their valve springs and they were sh*t, and, what has all this got to do with the exhaust system?? And now we're voicing our political opinions on import/export and Australia's economy...lol. C'mon guys stay on topic for the original posters sake. Lets not turn this into an I love Nizpro or hate Nizpro thread as the mods will lock this up and the benefits for the original poster will be lost.

Gas speed and temp is greatly reduced by the time it gets to the cat, hence why in a split dump they plumb it back down at the bottom near the cat otherwise what would the purpose be of splitting it and only later re introducing it into the same exhuast path? So split dumps are no good then cause it must disrupt the flow? I don't love Nizpro, In my opinion I just think that this is a great flowing system at a good price. I have also had an XFORCE and also seen many other systems, im not knocking any of the others or am I paid by Nizpro to support their exhaust, this is just my honest opinion on it from my experience. I haven't heard from one owner that has come on here and had a bad thing to say about it, apart from fittment which we have established. All the speculation is from people who have never owned one and are only judging it based on heresay. If you stick your head under a car that has one and you hear it I can assure you you won't have anything negative to say about it. When it goes on a hoist everyones jaw drops. Not one person including any exhaust shop that has looked at it has said " hmm..cheap chinese system "..

Yes, yes, I know rab but I have to live with it being a low quality chinese system.... Honestly, the only thing that I could possibly fault on the system is the fittment. I did it on jack stands in about 2hrs so its not that bad. If your patient and don't mind tweaking it here and there than this system is well worth it!

I have compared the welds. They are clean steady tig welds, better than what I have seen on custom jobs from most exhaust shops. Also the stainless tube used is thicker than XFORCE. Anyhow is that how you rate an exhaust system by its welds? How about the twin 100cpi 4" body cats that can outflow any single unit, or the large bodied straight through 4" mufflers that keep the system quiet whilst not restricting flow? I admit it was a little fidly to fit but I can throw any kw's at it without a problem. Fact that it is made in China to keep to cost down, well I'm used to that considering about 90% of the goods on the market are now produced there. Here is a pic I'm no boiler maker but nothing wrong with the look of the welds to me??

Without a cat you cannot convert some of the poisonous gases into safe levels no matter how good your ignition timing and fuel trims are.

The Nizpro system is cheaper than going and getting a full custom 4" made up so I don't know what all the crying about the price is over? It is also cheaper than SMB, Manta and Tunehouses just to name a few.

Don't worry about dyno graphs, I'll be taking it down to the real dyno (WSID) to test it. So I'll post up the new times and previous times.

Well if you got it from Mark he only rebuilds using ceramic bearings so that's good to hear that it actually does spool faster.

See if you can negotiate with them. Find out how much the quote is from where they want the work done and then you pay the difference from where you want the work done. Otherwise you are just going to have to go with who they want which is going to be the cheapest probably.

You have most of the gear down. Just add a main girdle to support the main caps from twisting under load and a race balancer to protect the engine from nasty harmonics. Also have the ports on the crank shaft chamfered for better oil flow. Have the block sonically tested for wall thickness and find someone that uses a torque plate when they bore and hone the block to ensure a perfectly cylindrical bore. Then you need the engine blueprinted by someone that knows how to get the tolerances right. I used Atomic for all the machine work and then assembled it all myself. Brad is very helpful and will be able to help you out. With the right rods the engine will be good for over 600rkw. Good luck with your build.

Very easy to achieve matey. Just use a degreaser first. Don't be shy to use on everything. Just be careful around the coil pack cover because if you get water down there you will have to pull the coil packs out to dry out. Then use a silicon based product like a tyre shine of some sort and spray on all the black rubber and plastic bits. BTW it will only look like that for about a week becuase the silicon will attract heaps of dirt and dust but its easy to up keep. Good Luck and post up a pic of the results!

After experiencing the high stalled T04Z converted GT3540R I wanted that lower end drive-ability back. So I opted to go back to a standard size turbo and a tighter converter. I ordered a billet ball bearing core pack from Mark @ MTA turbo chargers in QLD who was very helpful and prompt. This uses a new silicon nitride ball bearing pack with a billet compressor wheel. Cost of the complete core was $ 1100 delivered. It is said that this will spool faster and flow better than the standard setup. I have also blown my 2nd auto now so will be installing the new turbo and another box (built by BTA Motrosport) and retune by the end of next week so I'll keep you guys posted with the results.

Here's a peak...

Lol. It sure does mate...

Started on a rs125 then a '96 gsxr600, '99 r1,'97 zx7r, '02 zx9r, k6 gsxr 1000, '99 harley sportster, '98 harley softail custom, k7 gsxr 600.

If it is the valve springs get them to do it under warranty and pay the difference for the heavier springs.

Go to another shop mate. You do not need a re tune with heavier springs.

So it is running the factory tune still?

Valve springs mate. If it was tuned while the valve springs were good then it does not need a retune, waste of money.

You have a bad earth problem at the brake light circuit. Attach a wire on the earth wire of the one of the plugs that hold the brake light globes and then earth it on the body somewhere. There will be 3 x wires on the plug, one is your park light +ve the other is your brake +ve and the other one will be a -ve earth.

could be flowing more air now and the ecu hasn't been tuned for this. Also just try regapping your plugs to about .8mm.