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Everything posted by macka'sxr6t
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Guy's I've already been there and done that. pic below http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v487/xr6...er/PICT0007.jpg Both pieces highlighted will not hold together. The plastic intake highlighted in red has a rubber seal on it that connects to the throttle body is only glued on. It will pop and then leak boost at anything over 8 psi of boost. I had to fabricate a full alloy pipe to handle extra boost. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v487/xr6...CarPictures.jpg I don't mean to sound like I'm having ago. just trying to offer some advise from my experiences. I love to see someone doing something different to others and I've been watching your project with interest. "GOOD LUCK" macka
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I for one will be glad to see someone else take over the coverage of V8 Supercars. IMOP CH10 are definately Expensive Daewoo bias. With nothing on TV worth watching last night I decided to to watch last weekends race at Winton again on video. I did'nt realize how many laps they followed those Expensive Daewoo wankers for, especially Toll Racing. Anyone would have thought they were leading the race. The two leaders Lowndes & Bright were within 1 sec of each other and they rarely followed them. Helll we were even lucky to see Lowndes cross the checkered flag. Sadly it happens during most of the race breoadcasts. Ford should be jumping up and down about providing equal coverage, after all they are half of the entertainment. If that's the best they can do good ridins to them I say. On a side note. Thank heavens for LOWNDES, how sad is SBR and FORD looking without Ambrose. Other than Lowndes no one else has bee able to step up to the plate and fill his place as a consistent front runner. It's easy to see he was the driving force behind both of them and was dragging Ingall along with him as well.. my 2C worth macka
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The way I understand it, yes it's possible it can hold 3 different tunes. The problem will be when you go to use it. Before you can down load the tunes in the box you must upload the tune that's been loaded from the factory. This is when the box becomes vin locked to that vehicle. To be able to use the other tune you would have to have then have the box reset. I would assume that that would mean clearing the original factory upload. The process would be the same when you use it on the other car which means that it would then be vin locked to that car. Remember you can only have it cleared 5 times before it must be sent back to SCT. I suppose it would be a cheap way of custom tuning 2 cars, provided you intended only use those tunes all the time. Could get very messy though if Ford decide to reflash both cars with an update though Hope that makes some sense. If I'm wrong someone will correct it macka
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You can fit it all yourself, parts can either be purchased in kit form or parts individualy. Your choice and depends on whether you are mechanically minded or know a mate that can help. Hell they even supply fitting instructions for dumbies. Once fittted take it to your tuner of choice. How hard can it be macka
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Man it's time you blokes got your fingers out of your You don't need to be a rocket scientist to change a set of injectors even a nuff nuff should be able to change a set in the same time as it takes to drink half a dozen stubbies. If you plan to use the Edit as a tuning tool ask your supplier to have to supply a genic map that covers larger injectors like the 968's so the engine will run. If you want max power have it custom tuned. Stock valve springs are good for at least 280 rwkw so don't waste your money, it's all a money making scam. How many times do we need to go over the same do some basic research and you'll find the answers your looking for. Macka .... I've run out of patients with this forum
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Valve springs I'm not convinced are necessary, trans mods should be manditory. Been there done that Nizpro stage II kit is your best option. Nicely engineered and it all fits together and will produce the results your after. macka
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Nesh, The going rate for fabricators is $60 + an hour. A lot of time is spent measuring cutting and welding end tanks and plumbing brackets. I could see $500 - $600 being spent on labour even more depending on how you design it to fit, then, there are material costs. A half descent core will cost approx $800 for a large one, then there's the end tanks. etc. I think you see the picture. Anything under $1400 for a quality IC is money well spent. I woud still like to do one in the future when I have the money, and be able to say its mine but that's me, that's how the Shaker came to frutition macka
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Nesh, I was going to have my IC custom made, to my own design and plans and something that would bolt straight in. I decided not to proceed with it. The cost to have one off items made is very expensive, when you compare it to whats already available for under $1000. But Hey, if you want one then go for it. be good to see another option out there. macka
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I'd go for a fully matched kit. either Nizpro or APS. The cost of matching up different kits can blow out your budget. Nizpro stage II would be a great starting point. macka
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I was told the ute was rated at 1600kg and the sedan at 2100kg. That's according to a dealer anyway. macka
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If it aint broke, why stuff it up with reverse grids The only thing I would like to see them change is to make the tyre change window window smaller (less laps) and also make it, so that they cannot come in for the change until later in the race. Lap 20 or so. Would create so extra pressure and more of a specticle to watch. macka
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Sorry Jim, for taking so long to get back to you. Thanks heaps for answering my questions My project is a CA18DET conversion into a Nissan TRX. Just finished putting together some basic fuel and ignition maps, and I have just a little bit of wiring work to do on the harness. Hopefully won't be to much longer before I can fire it up. macka
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But we're not really running a stock tune anymore other than to initially fire the engine and idle speeds, are we? Would'nt the MBT change from the stock tune, once you've added more boost and fuel across the entire rpm range? So there would be a need to revise all MBT's and load points throttle postions etc. To achieve the best tune possible? macka
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Surely part throttle response, is just as important in normal driving conditions as WOT. You should'nt have to floor it everytime to see that your car has more power. Tuning to find MBT in all throttle postions or load points, should show some big improvement in throttle response over the stock tune? or the WOT tuning method, right through the entire rpm range. Or am I missing the point? Do you know if any dyno's can be set up just to control load only? macka
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Thanks again Jim, If proper engine mapping would provide the best way to find MBT. Why do so many tuners just tune using the WOT method? I've just had a thought about mapping the engine properly by holding it at it's various rpm load points. Instead of having to have a steady foot would'nt you be able to use the cruise control. By that I mean. Hold the car in 3rd in performance for Auto's 4th for manuals. Bring the car up to the desired load point rpm note then set the cruise control to hold the engine steady while you play with fuel and ignition maps to find your MBT. This would also give you a chance to play with your camshaft timing if your engine hardware and tuning software allows it. Do you know if the Nissan CA18DET engines have the ability for independent camshaft timing? macka
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Thanks for the informative way you reply to my questions, I really appreciate the time you are taking to answer them. From reading your replies I get the feeling that the way to properly tune an engine would be to hold your engine at a specified load point and play with fuel and ignition maps to try and find your MTB. As access to an engine dyno is limited. Could you do it with a chassis dyno? How accurate would the tune be? I feel that it would'nt be the most cost effective way but would it be a better way than just doing 5-6 power runs @ WOT like most seem to? I you did this type of tuning say every 1000rpm and let the ECU calculate what it needs to between these points Would the tune feel like it has flat spots or surging? If it did, would it then be as stated in another reply just a matter of adding another load point to the tables? to tune these characteristics out. macka
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Thanks Jim, What is considered a safe AFR @ WOT? for general street use and the occassional drag race. I've heard some say mid 11's and others say its OK to be lean as 12.6 macka
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Thanks Jim, You explained it OK. I was not thinking to straight. what you say makes logical sense. In your OP how accurate are Wideband O2 sensors for tuning an engine for max power using data logging in the absense of a dyno? macka
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Thanks Jim, Sounds like the trick is to find MTB timing through the entire RPM range. Am I right to assume that as the rpm increases the MTB timing advance would decrease. Appreciate you imput, Jim thanks macka
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Can anyone answer this macka
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And so it should. I would be dissapointed if owned the car and it did'nt. Tell him to find a XR6T with exhaust mods and edit. The result wll be the other way round. macka
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Thanks for the replies guy's I was hoping to start a topic that both be in depth and informative. Hopefully this will take some of the so called black art of tuning out. Some of the info I've come across state that generally you should'nt run anymore than 24 degress maximum advance timing on multi valve engines. Is this true? or does the max advance you can run have other variables. Rob I'll certainly take you up on your offer the more info I can get the more confident I'll be. The engine that I'll be having ago at tuning myself is a Nissan CA18DET. cheers macka
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43 veiws on this topic and not one reply surely someone that knows how to tune could answer some of my questions macka
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Hi Guy's, I've started to dable a little bit with building my own fuel and ignition maps for one of my projects in the shed. What I would like to understand more about is Loud Points. What is it that they actually do? I believe I have a fair idea, but many forum members might not. So a clear explaination about them would be good. From most fuel maps, that I have seen they seem to be at every 500 rpm. Why? To work out how much fuel is required I assume that the kpa pressure is another Load Point. and the O2 reading from the O2 sensor tell the ECU how long it is required to fire the injector to acheive it A/F target The tuning tool that I have allows me to add more load points up to 40 or every 200rpm on an engine that will rev to 8000rpm and up to 21 or every 14 kpa vacum/boost pressure. Is there any advantage if I, for example chose to have load points every 250 rpm and every 15 kpa pressure? Would there be any advantage in doing this over load points @ 500 rpm & 25 kpa? What would be the down side if any of having closer load points? macka
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HSV means only one thing. Heavy Slow Vehicle keep left unless overtaking You could say the same about the Ford GT GT-P 290 kw against the XR6T We all know which is quicker till you reach 230 kmh macka