blueboost

yeh as others have said, there is a few pipes missing, although if you ask the guy, he might have them, because if he changed everything he should not have needed them. sounds a good deal. you can use your ecu. and for boost you can run a vacum hose straight from the actuator to the manifold, that will controll it old style, and it will give you 4-6 psi,you can lift the boost with a blead valve further if you want, but it will make better power then a standed tubo car at this boost) I would get a standed turbo exhaust(which he might have) you will need to get a turbo fuel regulator, and turbo injectors (again he should have, or you can pick them up for about a $100.00 dollars for the set, a turbo map sencer (2bar) this will need a tune but will be very nice for the money spent, and will kill the super charger setup. David

I beleive you should take it to one of your shops that cater for this, they will charge you around one hundred doller to put it together, and because they have done it before so many times, it wont get broken, and it will work from then on. I know I sound like I am just trying to drum up work for the shops down there, but it is not that, just about 50% of the one I get in, people have done it wrong, broken it, used the wrong fuel hose, clamped it to tight and destort the fuel hose, to short and it pulls off. and ends up costing us and them more in the long run. (running there motor lean and taking the risk of hurting the internals. I know every one likes to do some of this themselves, that can be part of the fun, but make sure you do it with someone that has done it before, or know what you are doing, this is important stuff you are playing with for the sake of 100 bucks. David

yeh I take it you are meaning when you have the car edited, all you have said you done will over boost stock, without edit, once edited, the main over boost is not the main isue, it is leanout, from not having big enough injectors, or the fuel pump not keeping up, so it is a gamble if you did not check it. but if your fuel pump is up to the job, and your injectors are big enough, and the tune was suited your car well before, well most intake mods will be ok, (this does not mean you would not check them though. the other thing that can happen to the 4 speed auto is the extra power can slip the clutches, so there is a bit you have to look out for, that can cost a lot more then getting a custom tune to suit. David

hope you got that cars AFR's checked , because those injectors runout real quick. the ten psi tune will normaly be lean once you do the cat. it might be right but you should get it checked. well done on you time buy the way. David

yeh can you remember what Adam said yours had, I think he said about 420, and most of his was around 138mph, so that all lines up. I think it is because there is alot of inefficency around 5200 rpm still in the larger stall, so robs the real figue the car is making. David

well done guy's how much power loss was there when you changed to the c4? with the same boost you had in the big tune? just that the stall seems to steel a fair bit from what I have seen on other cars? David

good luck Kent, traction will be your isue, without slicks but, keep us posted David

that's a good price. sometimes its good to do somethings yourself like that if you have the ability, every bit you do, you learn some more. David

$200.00 is cheap for a 044, is that a genuine one, because there are copies on ebay, if it is genuine, I must be getting riped. David

sounds good.

I will try and come up, depending on when they run it, and what the weather is like. David

how come you just didn't use the Process west swirl pot ? bolts up in ten minites, and is only a bit more. must be a reason, just wondering what it was. you get more noise from the back of the ute then the front, or did you not expect it to add up to so much, or just wanted to do it yourself? David

this is right, and the further north the worse the fuel freshness it seems, and yes I might be able to come to townsville for ford verse holden, our drag strip has been destroyed. David

tolulene is good, but does take a bit to mix, so give your car a good shake to get it mixed. about 5% gives you the octane of octane boost (a good one) it is good at stopping detonation,

what percentage toly did you put in your 396 tune, I thought you only put 10% in then. David

what size exhaust are you running? David

well done , sounds like a tough car. what rpm does the t04z come on, compared to the stock turbo? David

yeh go see the tuner your going to use, he will load the scaling for the injectors, so you can get there, will take him 5 min, if he does not, get a different tuner. David

I have found the standed one to be inconsistent, sometimes 300rwks, (with injectors) sometimes they get lazy way earlier. it is a bigger job then a sedan, but the main thing that peaple stuff up, is you have to put the proper submursible fuel hose in it. David

just be carefull how low you run your back tank, if you run your rear pump dry for long, you will burn it out, try to keep atleast 5-10 lts in the rear. David

yes that is right, the top one is return to the tank, so it can push any air bubles out of the swirl pot, this returns the excess fuel and air back, which also keeps the fuel in the swirl pot fairly cool. (because you are flushing the fuel back by the spare amount your rear pump has, which is mainly at idle, and low power levels) if you return straight back to the tank, from the regulator, you put a lot more demand on your fuel pump, leanout is a lot more dangerous then warm fuel. and any air from the back tank has to go through your system to get out. David

I think you will find the answer if you look at the air temp compared to the inlet air temp, have them the same , and your car should have normal xr6t power. David

I have done a couple, one, we debunged the exhaust, injectors, k&n filter, extra f6 cold air intake, and water injection. 12.5@110mph the other one, intercooler, k&filter and intake, pipe from turbo to intercooler (2.5 inch), pipe from intercooler,to black intake pipe that goes on the throttle body, (3inch)injectors,and a larger cat. (the car needs a walbro pump, (running full tank) or swirl pot and biger pump, because this setup will make just over 300rwks, and the standed pump cannot keep up, (even with a full tank) not sure what this one will run, but it had a race with the other one and floged it by about 5 car lengths. this combo was still easy to controll the waste gate, because they still had standed exhaust. if you leave the dump pipe on it, and put a 2x2.5inch exhaust, you will make more power then this, and still be able to controll the boost. David

by the way I agree with what everyone else has said, but your question was without changing the size turbo what can you do, I would say get some second hand turbo pistons, throw them in, make sure you have a very large wastegate to keep the boost down, 3500rpm stall, will stretch to 5200 which is max power, you will not get that off the mark, but you don't need that much anyway, your rpm range will be, 5400 up to 6000rpm, so you shift as it gets to 6000, and you will be at max power right untill you change at 6000 again, run 3.45 stock gears, you should be right for 125mph its ok to slip all the way through like that, as long as you have a good trany cooler, (this will be a sh-t box around time, but this is what you have asked, and the power will be good with the big turbo. but my choice would be to swap it whih some one who wants a dyno car, for a t04z or the like. that said, I am putting a gt42r on mine, although it will have a 1.05 exh David

yeh I would try 3500rpm, with the torque the 4lt makes at 3500, with 5-6psi, should start stretching the stall a bit further, then will make more boost, which will stretch it further again. if you go bigger then 3500 stall in this weight car, and with the torque it will make, under full boost it will stretch up to about 5200rpm, so any bigger, and you will not have any rpm left to play with.imo David