blueboost

yeh just seal the crossover end so you don't suck any dirt in, the other will be fine untill you get another one. David

could you take a picture of the magnaflow one and the exforce together, looking into it, to show the core diference. David

you have to hold the outside of them, then unscrew the inside philips head. David

I have seen a wastegate flap, drop out of its sleve, and was open all the time, this sounds like the same thing to me, the reason you saw 15 psi, with no exhaust is even when the flap is open, these cars can over boost with no restriction, so I think you will find, a bent actuator rod or the flap is not covering the hole properly. or could have came off the actuator completely. David

yeh, the shifts and overall presures can be lifted in the flash tune. David

yes, I mean through a flash tuner, that is the best way, without a flash tuner, you will not be able to run the 2 bar map of the xr6t. if you don't want to spend the money on a custom flash tune, I would set the turbo up with the standed 4-5 psi actuator, buy a 8 to 1 rising rate regulator, and run it like that, the reg will give you the fuel it needs, and the standed knock sencer will retard the timing from standed. this is a rough way, but it will work, if manual, buy a xr6t clutch, from someone, if auto, get a electric shift kit for it. if you want to spend the money on a in car boost controller, it will work well, but I would just put an actuator with the boost you would like to run, say 9psi,and you can use a in car blead valve to lift it further if you want. and get it flash tuned. David

you will need a xr6t map sencer, you can controll boost any way you want, even just run the spring pressure you want to use, and just run it straight off the manifold. you will need a xr6t fuel regulator, then it can be tuned using the 2 bar map, on a xr6t tune, and turn the turbo logic off, and controll it manualy. your injectors will handle up to about 250rwks then, put a bigger intercooler on it, that way you don't have as much trouble with the high compresion. or I would run water injection on it. David

the bolt you are talking about, is for the manifold heat sheild. it does not use a bracket, and will not use the one near the gear box either, leave the second o2 sencer off, it will bring the engine light on, but it will come on anyway, untill it is tuned, David

by the looks of it, if you only want 300, well the little one should handle it, just make sure( imo) you use a organic plate disc. these cars are to hevey for the others, if you go more you will be out of its zone. and the malwood one takes over. so it up to you in the end, to make sure your not going to do more mods down the track. (most say there not, but they end up changing there mind. David

The old soup diet, that brings back memories, yuk David

the exhaust is not a concern at that level, most get about 260rwks, keeping the afr's good with the stock injectors. with injectors they should go about 280-290rwks, and the cat is the hold up then. the typhoons run about 220rwks standed. David

well done paul, starting to come alive now, David

that is a tough car,and should be just the start of it. well done Phill David

hi 6boost, the 6 speed auto shuts the throotle on you when you stall it up to much off the mark, so you have to get the spot that only starts to shut it, if you stall to much, it will be slower, that said, I would say you foud around the best you can get already, without a flash tune, this can be turned off once tuned and the car will be able to stall up to about 10 psi off the mark, but there will only be a bit more in your stock tyres, about 1.90 at best. David CPVtuning

I have used around 300 Seimen deka's, I don't find any diference to others, they have a strange low slope, but they seem to give very good fuel economy, that said I don't mind 968's,(just a bit small that is all,) and the drilled Nizpro ones don't seem to a any problem either, if I have a run of bad ones of any of these, I might change my mind though. David

yeh there could be a bit in that, I don't know, my mph lifted a bit on my quickest 60ft,but it had droped to about 26 degrees by then. so I put it down to ; most times the quickest 60ft is the one that you got the best traction on. which most times you done the biggest burnout in so you got a bit more heat soak. or you let your tyres down a bit more (which does rob a bit of mph) imo David

not sure how cool oil goes in a trany, I normaly run it through the radiator on the way back, so it keeps it at about 180 f. David

I better put mine on there, 355rwks 125mph 4speed auto. David

with the right presures these boxes can handle 330-340rwks at least,you could get a dud one , but on the hole set up right, they hold together, we have heaps running around with over 330rwks. mine was pulling around 1300nm of torque, (hi stall) and has ran over 350 passes down the quarter, and she is still sweet, the new owner drives it every day.(around 360rwks) when it pulled the ten. you could abuse them, which would be heat related, and you mighthurt them then, like around a track, and a few laps, and the heat will kill it. but other then that I have found them to be very strong. I do think that the presures cannot be made strong enough for much more then this, but I would get run mine high,like I have maybe up to about 370rwks. PS MOST HURT THEM BUY RUNNING THIS POWER INTO FOUTH, IT CANNOT HANDLE IT but you can still do over 200 k's in third, and if you want to wind it out more, don't hold it flat in fouth. there was not much known about the software in the early day's , and I think a lot comes back to that, and people running big power in to 4th. David

yeh that hose might just stay working, what happens with it is it does not go to bits,like the others, but it will go very hard after a while. it will lose its flex, but once set in the tank, that might not matter. David

a dyno will show a power figue, that the car can make, over the 5 or so seconds it takes to do a dyno run, if you have a good intercooler, your car might be able to back that up straight after with the same or similar figure, then again, the same figure a third time. a stock cooler can run an ok figure the first time, say 280rwks, then back that up straight away, and it will run 250rwks, then again and 240rkws, the same happens down the quarter, you rev it doing your burnout, then rev it right through first, then right through 2nd, the most times right through 3rd, just like three back to back runs, so two cars with 300rwks (auto's) one can run 119mph, and the other(with a stock cooler might run 112-114mph, without back to back runs, or very slow ramp rates, you don't alway's see how good the cooler works. then this is exagerates in hot times of the year, plus there can be a 2-4 mph difference, if you cool the car right down in between runs, like some push there car up the lanes after cooling them down for an hour,(turbo cars) hope this puts some light into why some mph's can be so different to others. there is other reasons to, like the average power through the revrange, but and some over conservitive compensations in temp to timing in the tune to, but heat soak is the biggest one,imo I did a test with a car, auto standed cooler, it made 280rwks, hot weather, she ran 112mph, same car, same tune, same boost,(car still had all the standed top pipework and restrictions) but with a good cooler on the front, the car made 290rwks, it ran (hot night 117 mph) hope this makes sence. David

well done guy's, awsome effort. David

we have ran one up here, stock cooler, stock exhaust, water/meth injection, bung removed(exhaust), injectors, it ran 12.5 @110mph David

the exhaust shop should be able to supply it for you, but if not sound rite in mackay gets them and puts them on for me. David

12.1 @118mph, factory dunlops.