Bellato

NA diff is single spinner, do not replace an LSD with a single spinner

Yea I was worried it might be clutch plates! Im 90% sure it doesn't have a zf tune cause the tuner said they always do it and I specifically requested not wanting one so hope my request was upheld. I spoke to an auto shop in town today and they think that theres a crack in this internal housing thing (didn't ask what it was, they just showed me one on a bench, maybe it holds the clutch plates?). Said the reason its only it happens when cold is because the crack would be so fine and close up when heated up, but doesn't make sense because after 2 minutes it doesn't happen again and the gearbox surely can't be more than 40degrees by then, which I thought wouldn't be enough to seal a crack from metal expansion. Anyone offer any light on this potentially being the issue?

My 300rwkw FG. Can't afford 2 cars as a uni student, but no complaining about my daily

You need to change all 3 if replacing the centre with a firmer one because the firmer centre one puts more load on the side ones and they shag quicker as a result. As for labour shop around, a local ford did mine for $380 labour and I supplied bushes. Bushes were about $250 from memory

Getting a flare from 3rd to 4th only when the car is cold, soon as I drive for 2-3 mins it doesn't happen. Only does it at like 2500-3000rpm (never tried at wot because dont rev it out when cold) Its an fg stock until 90,000kms then 300rwkw until now (100,000). At 90 had full flush and oil replaced with GW syntrans and had external cooler installed behind fog light and heat exchanger disconnected. It's not supposed to have a zf tune but who knows what the tuner did, box doesnt feel like it shifts any differently though Cheers

What offset? guard work? camber?

Monroe sport are better designed for lowered cars

Why? We've seen 1000hp barra's with turbo's still under the bonnet this is a bit overkill isn't it?

Pretty sure it would sit 13mm further out not 8? A 9.5 +40 is about 6.5-7mm further in than 10" so 20-7=13 further out

It shouldn't but is recommended to run up on a dyno to check afr's etc

Just to add from personal experience. I just changed stock brakes to RDA slotted and dimpled, remsa pads and some fresh super dot 4 fluid and initially I was a bit let down, but having done about 100kms or so on it now the pedal is more responsive and theres more feel to the brakes. Around town braking they are a fair amount better than standard. Pulled up fairly well on some hard braking aswell, yet to do any high speed stops with them yet. expecting them to get a little better with a few more kms on them aswell. I can't compare to DBA, only to 6/4 brembo's which are incredible, put for the $500 or so I paid for the upgrade it got rid of my shudder and is more than enough of an upgrade for a car that doesn't see a track

Outer control arms bushes. My fg had a bad rear end clunk and changed a heap of things and wasn't until I changed the upper outer control arm bushes and lower outer control arm bushes that fixed it. Cheap to buy the bushes, expensive labour wise

Pre au have a 0 offset and au onwards have +36 so anything pre au will poke out the guards way too much.

I can't tell you whether or not shims would fix it or you need a camber kit, but I have 3sl front springs with about 335mm htg so camber would have been a bit, I completely filled the bolts with shim and running about -0.7 now which is fine for even tyre wear. I think you should be bale to get it back to -1 with just shims

Jax tyres charge $66 for a wheel alignment and this only includes any basic adjustments is toe adjustment. Any additional camber correction is charged at an hourly rate for thei time. Having shimmed the car up myself its fair enough cause its a a bit of a sh*t job to do! As the for the stock bolts being long enough, I have sssl front springs with completely shimmed bolts and have less than -1 deg camber so if anyone tells you the bolts aren't long enough then that doesn't sound right

Has Joe got the cooler yet? If he hasn't and its a black one I saw it yesterday at PW ready to be sent off. It looks good mate!

Its a good thing to test, but Henz is right in that it wasn't much of an upgrade. It does show that not every single mod needs a change, but most people that change parts replace them with significantly better parts. I'd imagine the only things you could really do without a retune are changing from one cooler to a slightly bigger one as you did, or maybe changing from a stock intake to a typhoon intake. Either way I think most tuners would still recommend the car be run back up on a dyno with the changes and I know with my tuner it would cost me the same to run it up to check everything as it would to touch up the tune..

What model aswell? If an FG then that should be fine, if B series then that's quite a jump up from standard

Very nice but only 8.5 on the rear?

For what it costs I would definitely be upgrading the cat. For a bit over $500 installed you can get a bolt in cat that will get you well over 300. You've already spend good money on other parts so don't want to go tight on something you should need. I learnt this the hard way..

Did you say you're going to get rid of a PW stage 2 for 400? Not necessary mate, the stepped stage 1 is going 400+ so stage 2 is going to be fine. As for turbo, I don't know much about the t04z but there must be a reason everyone is using the gtx these days

I would stick to sr or rb. Going to have a lot more access to parts over there than you will with our barra motor.

You can basically get one that's modified for the same price as a stock one, mod's don't have much in the way of resale value. I wouldn't go high kms unless you really want too, because at 400 you should be able to handle the power with a good tune and maintenance without needing a rebuild Better off with lower kms and mods are up to you. Some modded cars have been thrashed to hell and back, some have been serviced ever few thousand kms including major services being done quite regularly (which is better than most stock cars). If going modded make sure you're aware of all the mods on the car and find out who the tuner is and give them a call, majority will give you an honest opinion of the car (unless it's like a best mates) and plus they'll be able ot look after your retunes etc aswell

Not sure where the speed sensor is but I wouldn't be using the trip computer as being accurate, especially if you have much lighter wheels

Never heard of anyone having a problem. Just go for a drive with a gps to work out how much your speedo is out just so you know