Bellato

No worries mate, this place has saved me so much $$$$ when it comes to things to look for in these cars and future mods so just trying to repay the favour. I been wanting to get mine for 18 months but all my money was tied up in shares which f*cked me over so finally gonna have my money saved up by christmas to finally get one! So yea I been looking for a loooooong time and I seen whats a bargain and whats not and seen the ones that I can really hit up for a good price if they're still there at the end of the year because anyone whose had their car for sale for a year will be pretty negotiable on price if they really want to sell lol. Oh and don't restrict the places you look! You never know where you'll find the best deal. carsales, carsguide, ebay, tradingpost, picklesauctions, countrycars, usedcarsonline, manheims auctions are the main ones but then you have all the other random ones

Yea I was exactly the same as you, didn't want someone else's car that had just been flogged around and sometimes modified cars are like that. But once you learn to know what needs changing on these cars and how some people have gone to extremes to keep them in top condition, then sometimes its worth looking at. As for the model you want with the kms you want that's going to be hard to find.I been looking for the last 18 months for a turbo and have only really seen half a dozeen that match what you want (given your budget). If your deadset on what you want then be patient and something will pop up, if not maybe look back to a MK II but 2006 that way there you still get all the good bits in your bottom end, but have lower kms, or you may need to take a few more kms up to 100-110k to get the newer model. Personally I prefer lower kms, but if you find one with slightly higher kms but has been looked after well than shouldn't be much of an issue. Heres a couple that you may have looked at: This 2006 MKII in octane only 75,000kms for $18,500 - Its been for sale for about 6 months now so price could be negotiable quite a bit http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/ford-falcon-2006-12401858?YearFromShort=1650&vertical=Car&eapi=2&page=1&sort=~Price&cr=4&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282%204294966285%204294966463%204294922209%201650&silo=Stock&Range=Mileage:Min,100000 This 2008 MKII has a lot in the way of options and pulls a fair bit of power - also been for sale for about 6 months and clearly state price is negotiable at $19,300 so you could probably squeeze that in your price range. The only think I'm not a fan of ex-cop cars http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/ford-falcon-2008-12694712?YearFromShort=1650&vertical=Car&eapi=2&page=1&sort=~Price&cr=7&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282%204294966285%204294966463%204294922209%201650&silo=Stock&Range=Mileage:Min,100000 Again 2006 MKII only 50,000kms - awesome colour, lots of options, and ridiculously low kms - again has been there for about 6 months so price is negotiable for sure. Bit higher price but for those kms its worth it cause from what iv foound when it comes to resale kms is worth more than year model!! http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/ford-falcon-2006-12241212?YearFromShort=1650&vertical=Car&eapi=2&page=1&sort=~Price&cr=8&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282%204294966285%204294966463%204294922209%201650&silo=Stock&Range=Mileage:Min,100000 Thers just a few I've had my on for the last few months. They may be ones you could be interested in. I guess depends on how far your willing to travel for a car and what the owner says about the cars history and maintenance

bng's right, if your budget's $18k then you need to look at cars around $16k to account for stamp duty, rego and insurance

I'm much in the same boat as you except getting mine about christmas time. From what I've researched on this forum: 1. Keep your mind set on BF MKII or worst case 06/06 or later BF MKI due to the stronger bottom end 2. The auto (ZF6) is an awesome gearbox, smooth shifts, capable of holding above and beyond 300rwkw without needing a rebuild - only negative is the high cost to service (approx $500) this will probably need to be done if you buy a car with more than 100,000kms and hasn't been done before. 3. I know you don't want modified but don't rule it out. If you have a read of some of the things the members do to maintain these cars, replace bushes, change to braided lines, turbo oil filter service etc etc - I would much rather buy a members 300rwkw car that's had that kind of care than a stock one that has only ever had a basic service. Apart from that the 100,000kms is hit and miss, just depends how the car's been looked after. Some guys have blown turbo's and other things at like 70,000kms, others are still going at 200,000. If you do a bit of research on here and look of some of the general maintenance these guys do to keep the turbo's in shape and it will give you a better idea of what to look for and to ask the owners when your sussing out cars. Probably even post up some links to the ones your interested in to see if ppl can offer any insight into them. Hope that helps

Hey mate It may depend on whether you just want a note or you want to get some power out of the exhaust too? Because if you just want a note, you can get a redback or xforce catback. redback goes for $350 on ebay and the xforce is about $550 (but in stainless). I got quoted $700 for the redback system fitted so if you can do it yourself go for it cause its just a simple bolt on system. Too make it even louder you can remove the middle muffler and go with straight pipes but I would get the catback first and if its not loud enough then modify. However if you want power then you should look at Pacemaker 4490 or 4495 extractors,a high flow cat and then the catback. You can buy this whole system I found on ebay for $1200 which has all the good bits and should give you a decent note and power http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALCON-BA-XR6-PACEMAKER-EXTRACTORS-HIGH-FLOW-CAT-REDBACK-2-5-EXHAUST-/150765217951?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231a4ea89f#ht_2466wt_1168 The full system is better if your going after power and probably worth getting a tune with to really max out the power gains, but obviously you need to pay a bit more for it. So I guess its up to you, cheap and just the note or spend a bit more and get a nicer note with power gains aswell. And if you check out the description of the video you posted you'll see he's running a full system with pacemakers etc so I guess that full system off ebay for $1200 is pretty much what you want sound wise. Heres some other clips with the same system on a BA and BF - not that there should be much difference with the FG http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=czuXEoNW6tA&feature=related Hope that helps!

Yea fair enough BlueDragon if you don't have the tools etc then not much you can do lol. No harm in giving it a go, I guess when you think about it you had to do something about the brakes anyway so its gonna be an upgrade regardless!

I think the DBA's are slightly better but there are people on here who have used the RDA's no worries. If your not looking for any significant upgrade, more or less just replacing your shot discs then that combo should be fine. Yea I didn't look at rotor size when I posted my link. Never heard of RDX pads, I would find out how much they charge for those pads on their own because a decent set of Bendix Ultimates or EBC Reds are around the $150+ mark so maybe get the discs from that guy and pads from somewhere else, or ask him how much for either of the two pads I mentioned. And as for the install if you do it yourself just look up one of the many tutorials on youtube and give everything a good clean before they're replaced

Can't even find a single thing googling them, never a good sign

And if he can lend some of that money too me lol

Crap Ciaran that's discs and pads! You can barely get Bendix Ultimate pads for that! BlueDragon its up to you but I think the DBA 4000 slotted from ebay with Bendix CT or Bendix Ultimate Pads and you should be able to do it all yourself for under $500 easy If you really don't want to do it yourself and get the mechanic to do it, find out what brand he wants to use because there seems like a bit too much for labour in that price. But Bionic's right, if he's willing to machine to illegal than that's not right, because if he does your pink slip he'll probably hit you up at rego time and tell you, you need new discs

For just fronts that's not cheap. Can get DBA4000's for $330 on ebay plus pads ($150?) and do the install yourself? http://www.ebay.com....#ht_1452wt_1168 Also only going off what I'v ever seen or heard but is there are chance that the hub wasn't cleaned properly before your current discs were put on. Apparently the slightest bit of crap on there can put the disc off slightly and yea you'll get shudder way too soon. Someone can probably clarify this because like I said, just going off what I've read.

4 posts above yours mate, sorry to disappoint lol

Buy a K and N panel filter for like $150 (probably can even find it cheaper second hand). Then cut a whole in the bottom of your airbox and run a piece of pipe under the headlight. End result is a typhoon intake for under $200. If you aren't going to tune then no point doing anything more

The MKII now comes with 18's doesn't it? because that'll make them worth a bit more. Personally I wouldn't take anything less than about $1200-$1300. Iv sold BA MKII 17's with crap tread and a bit of gutter rash for $500 if that gives you an idea. (look an ebay theres a lot of older sets for sale around that price) $1200 might seem cheap considering I sold crap wheels for $500, but I think once you start getting upwards of $1500 people won't really consider them because you can get a decent set of aftermarkets for that price. that's just a gauge though of what they MIGHT be worth, could be more or less, just depends on the market at the moment I guess

In regards to the question I prefer the TSW but it depends what colour car you have. If you ask nicely some guys on here are awesome at photoshopping so post a pic of your car and someone might be able to give you an idea of how they'll look on the car. Ps. if you PM Worm he has s set of staggered Koya Inox CEO's for sale in 20's. Black with chrome lip. Kind of similar to your second picture so might be worth getting onto him because he normally offloads wheels pretty cheap and they come with good tyres!

Be careful with fiberglass body parts. Saw a BA ute with fiberglass front end and bonnet that had a smash. f*cking made a mess! Just shattered everywhere and broke the windscreen, put fiberglass all through the motor, cut lines and f*cked up his cooler and radiator. Panel beater said if it was all stock parts there would have been just panel damage n that's it. Anyway only an issue if you smash LOL

Yea it does but why pay $33 a can plus postage when you can get it for $25 plus postage? And I emailed the ebay guy and were very reluctant to give an bulk purchase discounts. Whereas Caswell in Melbourne were more than happy to do so!! On a side not I was having a think about this stuff. This probably wouldn't be bad to spray the rear guards with if you have intentions to do big burnouts ie powercruise, drags etc. Avoids having to clean off rubber and tar off the guards later on (or have to repaint guards from stone chips etc), just peel it off and through it in the bin. Probably one can should last you half a dozen uses so cost is nothing really

Wouldn't pay more than $800 for an Xcal 3 New, can find them cheaper new or even cheaper second hand but be careful buying second hand that they've been reset and how many times they've been used before because they can only be used on so many cars (5 I think? Someone else confirm that)

Hey Sharp Dressed Panda, give the guys at Caswell an email and let them know you want 12 and ask whats the best deal they can do. They'll do you a good deal! Also make sure you indicate whether you want the aerosol or the tins because there is a difference. You'll need a spray gun and compressor to use the tins, but it is cheaper

Nah there isn't. They probably figure you can just use a glossifier as well to get a glossy look. Works out the same price if you do a couple of coats less of the colour and replace it with a couple of coats of gloss. Only been able to find gloss on ebay in Aus and the seller's a rip off and isn't a fan of bulk buying

Yea I had it in my BA NA XR6 if its the same thing. Check the ICC is pushed all the way in cause the plug at the back could be slightly loose. Also check that all the plugs underneath the unit are in. Could be worth pulling it out and putting it back in (that fixed mine) but just check everything before doing that cause that's a bit of work. Like I said, not the same car but worth a try?

If you want them black then get some Plastidip and for $50 their black and you can change them back whenever you want!

It's surprisingly not that big of a job if you do have to pull it out. The top cover above the unit clips off and the two side panels next to the shifter unscrew, then 5 screws and its out. But yea don't do it if you don't need too. But if you do I think theres a thread on here if not pm me and I can run you through it. Also the plugs underneath the unit are accessible from where the tissue box holder is, feel around and you'll feel them. Just push them all up to ensure there properly clipped in. Ps if it happens again try this before going to ford because they couldn't diagnose my problem and it cost me $100 for nothing!

Sounds like you may have fixed the problem. But if for some reason it comes up again check the ICC is plugged in properly at the back (just push it in), and check all the plugs underneath the icc (I think there is 4 or 5). This may be irrelvant for you but my car was losing the dash cluster and just losing all power randomly and couldn't figure it out (Also didn't start on a dozen occassions) and once I pulled out the ICC and put it all back in and checked all the plugs it came good. Like I said sounds like you fixed the problem but if you have an issue again try this

that's cheap! I wish more members lived in the ACT! Ps on a side note I just got my Plasti-dip yesterday and will be doing my rims once uni is over for the semester. Whats people's opinions? Should I do the whole rim? Leave centrecap silver? Leave just the silver spokes silver?