Bellato

I didn't think they would start because the new ICC locks you out and unless you get the code (or re-coded by Ford) it won't let you start the car?

A lot of work hey haha. I worked since I was 14 and bought my xr6 for $13k at 18 then sold it for $10k (also sold my motorbike for $3k) and bought the FG for $20k (I work a fair bit while at uni and im on youth allowance so that helps pay the bills lol) As for the torque under the 'fg rear clunk' thread shyfrd posted up the torque for each bolt from the manual so maybe check that out if need be. Yea they definately go hard from the start, Im lowering next then some nice 20x10's so I can actually grip before getting more power lol. I live in Griffith NSW 5 months a year and Canberra the rest lol

I want to try this! Surely cheaper if not the same as the ones on the market but I bet its a good feeling getting it done!

90% sure you need a new ICC. They're about $1500 on ebay (probably cheapest you'll find). Then you need to instal (quite easy to do yourself) but then you need to take the car to Ford (and it won't start lol) and they need to remap the computer to read the new ICC. $2k seems about right. And by saying you have a white ICC do you mean the silver? I don't think they come in white? XT is matte black, XR's silver and G6E is gloss black

Do you know what torque to do them up too?

Nice wheels man! Are they staggered though? I'm only going to 20's if I get 9.5'2 or 10's so I get more grip lol

Maybe PM 'Ralph Wiggum' because he was saying they should be torqued, I just went as tight as I could. Not sure what the torque should be and if you have a torque wrench to do the job lol. There isn't any harm in going tight tight though. Yea I wanna do G6E bootlip too but I got other things I reckon are more worthwhile to do first lol. I know what you mean with the age, Im 20 aswell, trying being a uni student you get even more looks lol

Stock standard Ralph. How much torque did you put on the bolts, I just went as tight as I could, given they're steel I didn't think it would matter? Yea but I have a sedan so different rear end.

Hey mate recently did the same upgrade but too an 08 FG with 78,000kms and I have a bad clunk in the rear end aswell - there's a thread on what I've done to fix it so far under the suspension forum Ford told me it was my control blade bushes and upper shock bushes so replaced both of them - fixed it by about 20-30% but still there. Then pedders did one of their 28 point checks and said nothing was wrong, must be a loose bolt so went under the car and tightened a heap of bolts that were starting to come loose - again probably a 20-30% improvement but still there. A lot of people have told me diff bushes but according to both Ford and Pedders they're still fine and shouldn't be making that sound. Next step for me is new springs and shocks all round (won't have time until September unfortunately) if that's not a fix then diff bushes are my next option. I realise this doesn't offer much of a fix for you but before you go spending too much money on everything I suppose you could use me as your test dummy until mines fixed lol. But easy thing is to jack it up and tighten all the bolts you can get a ratchet too, you'd be surprised how loose some are!

Knoles is right. My first time I upgraded the speakers in my old man's dual cab Bravo when I was on red P's lol. Figured if I broke something didn't matter haha. PLus the ute had a new headunit which had RCA's which made things easier. Seriously mate just go step by step (this is how I did mine, knoles probably took a slightly different approach) 1. Pull off your glovebox, door trims (front) and boot lining to get to the speakers. 2. Check what coloured wires are at each speaker and match them up with the bundle of wires behind the glovebox. 3. Now for your amp choose to eaither tap into the front or rear speakers and solder in the line level converter to the speakers 4. Now run RCA's from line level to amp 5. Run speaker wires from amp to speakers - and install new speakers 6. Use test light to find which of the wires comes on in accessories then solder into it and run it to your amp 7. Run decent gauge power cable from amp through firewall then add your fuse and connect to batttery 8. Screw in same or slightly lesser gauge wire as your ground to a good earthing point. 9. Put everything back together It seriously is the most rewarding job! Especially when you build a custom sub box with mdf to go with your speakers

Just an update on this. Pedders told me all my bushes are fine and theres nothing major wrong but the shocks are pretty sh*t after 80,000kms. I was planning to do springs and shocks in a few weeks anyway. They reckon it could be some loose bolts or something so just went under the car and F*** me half the bolts in the rear end needed about half a turn or more to tighten them up properly. There was a few that need more than a full rotation. This did remove 'most' of the clunk but still a little bit there. So next step is to springs and shocks (probably won't be for a month till I get a break from uni) then see if things are fixed from there Definitely recommend getting under the car every now and then and tightening any bolts you can get too (they're pretty much all 18mm), you'd be surprised how loose things get

Diff cradle checked and no issues as of yet, something to definately keep an eye on!

No I understand completely mate, from your perspective you must deal with a lot of C*** and yea you can't trust people, but your clearly smart enough to realise how people are and take the necessary precautions to stop people trying to rip you off. And I bet if you had a dodgy car come in who wanted to run a ridiculous amount of boost and you said it was unsafe and they said go ahead anyway you would get them to put something in writing saying that your not liable for anything that could go wrong. But you need to understand that as customers who know nothing to the extent you guys know that if there was something you could have stopped from breaking we'd at least expect a phone call asking if we want you to fix it or not. Again I'll reiterate that I don't know the full situation, but as the law stands, if the tuner is at fault then yes they could be liable under negligence and that's an avenue the OP should consider

Your right, The KFC example is the entire supply chain covered, but I only used it for the principle in that we go to places expecting that we're going to get the desired outcome we go there for, because we assume they know what they're doing. And as I have said we are not fully aware of every aspect of this situation and I'm far from a mechanic so I'm not saying it is the tuners fault, just recognising that IF it is then they probably could be negligently liable. I don't know, I've never had a tune and this is my first turbo car, but Im the kind of person that uses forums like this to find out what can go wrong and would ask you to check it, and as a good tuner I would hope you could recommend anything they may need to be check prior to a tune based on kms, year, model etc. But I'm a logical person and if it was something that could throw an error code or something that could be made aware to the tuner before coming on full boost then as a customer this is something I'd expect them to pick up before major damage occurs, but your right not everything can be checked and I agree with you completely. If those things you picked up on that car are something noticeable on driving the car or on starting the run then yes I would hope (being experts on these cars) that you would be able to identify issues like these (as you clearly did) before damage can be caused, but as for things which are undetectable and don't throw codes then no, you can't expect anymore as a customer. My point still stands. I don't know the full extent of this issue and I don't know how detectable it would be until it does blow off and overboost. I'm just saying that IF and only IF this was something that should have been detected before this occurred and there was some fault on the behalf of the tuner then yes they can be negligently liable. By the way don't take any of this to heart because I haven't heard a bad thing come out of Pitlane and if I did hear a story like this come from your workshop then yea I doubt you guys would be at fault cause you clearly know your stuff. But by the sounds of it they aren't a well known tuner and if never having worked on these cars the tuner should have taken precautions to ensure nothing major could happen and if they were worried about tuning the car then they should have offered a disclaimer to the OP so he could have made the choice to go with them or not

Firstly Ratter I'm not saying it is the tuner's fault, just giving the guy an option, something which he clearly asked for. Secondly, yes a tuner could be negligent by not being aware of any possible issues with the car, if this is one I'm not sure, I'm not a mechanic or tuner so can't say. But if it was a noticeable fault he should have addressed the issue before tuning, just as you probably wouldn't work on a car if you knew something was wrong. But like I said we don't know the full situation. As for Foon, yea clearly the OP knows the liability of working one of these cars, hence why he has looked at the cost of a rebuild to see whats the best option for me, given he has probably well aware that the costs could be worn by him. As for your first comment, I'm well aware of the country I live in thanks. But when you are unknowledgeable party you trust the knowledgeable party in any transaction. When you go to a doctor don't you expect them to correctly diagnose what's wrong and apply the correct treatment and if they misdiagnose and cost you an arm and a leg (or in worse cases a life) wouldn't you expect them to have some responsibility because you trusted their judgement because of their skill and knowledge. Just like there was a case recently in the media of a young Australian girl who ate at KFC and suffered from severe food poisoning which resulted in a brain injury which left her mentally and physically impaired and the courts just awarded her compensation (not that money is any compensation for a tragedy like that). My point being is we put our trust in people when we buy things in every aspect of life - food, clothes, cars! If people aren't ever held liable for negligence then we would all have to be experts in everything and do everything ourselves because it wouldn't be worth the risk of getting other people to do it. And if you don't want to be liable for things then you make your clients sign a disclaimer, as so many retailers do and then its on us as customers Rant over

Hey mate, as Ralph said, unless you signed a contract of some sort saying that you accept any liability if something happens to the car whilst in the tuners possession, or if there's a clear sign in the workshop when you walk in (then this would be implied consent to this liability) then you'd have a good chance of getting your motor rebuilt for free. This is so because as in any situation of where one party to a contract has extensively more knowledge than the other they 'generally' have a duty of care to the unknowledgeable party to provide adequate service. Basically like a doctor/patient relationship but they have laws to stop them from being sued from making stuff ups, I highly doubt tuners have similar legislation covering them. What I would do is go see a solicitor and tell him that you didn't not accept that you would wear any liability if damage occurred during the tuning and see what they say, if they could prepare you a nice threatening letter to the tuner that will make him crap himself then he might just cough up and fix the motor or pay up to have it fixed. I think this is the best way to go and sounds like you would have a decent chance in a negligence action due tot he duty of care the tuner owes. I'm sure spending a few hundred to see a good solicitor could save you a bit of money and stuffing around in the future

To be honest I've never used them but I think the only difference between the Superpro and the K-mac kits is that the Superpro is shims and the K-mac is ratchet style. Id say they both have a fairly similar range of adjustment. I do remember though when my Ba was lowered my mate who worked at Bob Jane and did my wheel alignment told me that if need be I should chuck in a shim or 2 (prob only 1mm shims) and that would bring it back out. Given you don't need much adjustment I'd say both kits will do the job, its just a matter of which you want to use. If you'll install and do yourself probs K-mac cause easier to use, but if your mechanic is going to do it, go superpro and let him adjust the shims as need be lol Maybe WA could better answer this so hopefully he'll chime in. Also you didn't have any negative rear camber did you Stiflr?

that's a lot of Neg camber from standard, that's definately going to scrub out the insides! Why would they set them at neg 1.0 from factory but then get their mechanics to do less than that when car's get wheel aligned, classic ford lol

If you bulk buy guys go through Caswell plating in Melbourne. Really good to deal with, cheaper than the rest and prompt postage!

Can't find my wheel alignment printout for the FG but found an old one off my BA XR6 (done at Ford). On the front they adjusted it to 0.52 degrees left and 0.63 degrees right. So I guess half a degree would be what the stock is because you'd assume they should adjust it to what Ford makes the cars with. But like I said this is a BA so FG may or may not be different

Mal Wood option 3 plus is what most guys run. Never heard a bad thing about them on here http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/index.php?page=clutches

Completely misread that first post by Jetsnot. that's the gas model number and Bomber's model numbers are the sport! Yea that ebay set for $720 is the one I'm going for. But extra $50 to get ssssl for the rear, $170 for front camber kit, $150 for rear eccentric offset bushes and $55 for pair of shortened bumpstops (all super pro parts) $1145 all up and should get exactly what I want!

1.8 isn't too bad, I was under the assumption that at about 0.5 you;d still get pretty even tyre wear, bringing it in a bit over a degree shouldn't be too hard. Also need to note that it is much harder for Stiflr to get around at that height given the lower height of the FPV bodykit so for practicality purposes you probably couldn't go much lower

What are these? Koya Inox CEO's?

Definitely do shocks too!! Stock shocks with lowered springs get so choppy after about 12 months (if not less) and your car just doesn't handle at all lol. Experienced this first hand being a tight ass when I lowered my first car lol