Bellato

Does it hold boost without dropping off at all?

Mine was on 14si tapering to 10, any more boost and car didn't react to it. Dropped catback and run it up with no change to the tune and made 313 overboosting to 18psi

I went in a mates ute last night that has a 3.5" hurricane s/s turbo back with 4" dump and was surprised at how quiet it was with minimal drone. Obviously louder than factory catback but much quieter than mine with muffler delete and another mate's with di fillipo. Can't compare to xforce or nizpro

With 3.5" dump and 100 cell 4" body cat, stock catback, couldn't make more than 295rwkw, although many others making mid to high 300's. I think there's more to it with my car but will be upgrading the whole exhaust when funds allow

Changing the cat will require a tune only Changing to a 4" dump and majority of tuners will want the rear housing ported and bigger flapper put on to control boost so will be more expensive

Labour would prob only be around 10 hours if that. Dropping the diff cradle for bushes is like 3-4 hours, but can also do all the other rear end bushes at the same time so say 5 hours max. Front suspension an hour or 2. The odd couple of bits and pieces would add up but yea 10 max I would say. All depends on how many kms. The bushes are all relatively common with higher kms, but the guy could be ripping you off because they are common problems http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUPERPRO-FORD-FALCON-BA-SUPER-PRO-REAR-SUPENSION-BUSH-KIT-BUSHING-/111226758230?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e5a1a456&_uhb=1 that's a full rear end superpro kit with absolutely everything. Labour would be 5-6 hours because that's more than what you need but might aswell with the rear out. So probably $1500 to replace all the rear end Tailshaft centre bearing and coupling could be shot, just depends. Suspension I would just find some 2nd hand ones for the meantime.

^^ same with me, don't let it do kick down unless last minute lane change or something. Manual shifts if I want to give it some and unless racing I stop accelerating to shift

This is what I'm seriously considering at the moment. Close to 350rwkw on 98 from the small turbo would be a nice little package! Heard of a few people lately having problems with flaring boxes. Mine was doing it with low oil, now its pretty well sorted but did it twice the other day. Only 300rwkw

Not really, according to our resident tuna they're only good for just over 300rwkw before they start heatsoaking

Genuine coils only. If not tuned factory plugs aswell

The manifold isn't all that hard to get off is it? I tighten my bolts every service and seems relatively straight forward, probably one or 2 that may be hard to take out

I would go +25 front and +40 rear. They're only 18's so you shouldn't have any guard issues but if you lower the car heaps the guards may need a slight roll

Mines the opposite, more noticeable at low revs, at higher revs it shifts fine. Even shifting manual its sloppy. Might try get a video to show what I mean.

I think Rotormaster released pricing at $2700 including rear housing. 6466 will definitely push stock motor and box to their limits. I think its rated to 935hp so like mid 500rwkw

So got a 2nd opinion on the trans and turns out it was down 500ml of oil. Topped up and flare is gone. The gearbox still has an issue with 3rd gear. When 3rd goes to shift the revs drop a little, they pick back up then it engages 4th and they drop back down. This shop doesn't seem to think there is anything but surely the gear should shift better. Might get a zf tune to firm up the shift to get rid of the sloppiness

I think these have only just been out in staggered for a little while, probably will be hard to get some info on them. I have heard of a lot of 20" copy argents cracking and buckling if that's worth anything

I used my 35 profile 20 for comparison to a 40 profile 19 because they're basically the same. Point being speedo won't be out enough to worry about, extra comfort and grip. I can get cost price tyres, but why not just get it right the first time...

Nope never stall it all up unless doing skids. Just launching foot to the floor with stuff all throttle control. Hopefully new tyres make a big difference, had a look at them today and they're like 20mm wider each tyre and seem fairly soft

My 20's with 245/35 put the speedo out but like 3km from where it was. For the sake of 3km difference I would go the extra 5% profile and enjoy the comfort and grip it offers

GT is defintiely quicker and I couldn't justify the money on the GTS anyway (I would rather 2nd hand c63 for a bit more coin). But the technology in the GTS is far beyond what the GT has, just seems like HSV spent a fair bit of time adding little things to make it a good package, but they clearly overstated the power figure when they were pulling each other off in the design room

Hard launches with 295rwkw with my 265's churns 1st, 2nd and sometimes 3rd. Tyres are getting replaced this week. Skids are fun but losing way too many races without traction

Very true but I assumed the wheels were going to be staggered and knew fronts are 8.5 and rears are 9.5 or 10 so the offsets were fine If I had 19's on an FG I would run this combo. Can fit a higher profile so why not for the extra comfort and grip

Don't waste your time with lows on the front, won't change the height. Have a look at the lowered threads to see what you want

What about pac springs? TBRE seem to use them in their engine builds and recommend them. Never heard anything about them?

+40 front is sh*t anyway, have to stretch tyres to make them fit. You got a much better front offset!!! Rear is fine