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I wish I could but the car is undriveable as it is so I don't have a choice.

I have recently bought a Mal Wood CSC for my BA XR6T. I live very remote and have been in talks with the local mechanic about changing it. He has never done one before and seems tentative and worried about doing the procedure, he said he has read up on it and asked a mate who has done it before and is quoting me around 5-8 hrs to remove the box. My question is from my understanding you disconnect the box from bell housing, remove or slide back box, remove CSC, reinstall new CSC, bolt box back up. Is it that simple or is there a lot more involved. He is telling me that I should be replacing my clutch while the box is out. I said well I think the previous owner has replaced with some form of heavy duty one as the clutch is very heavy and bites hard.

Ordered an alloy CSC to be safe. Only problem is the only mechanic up here has never done an internal CSC so how hard is it for someone that's never done one before. I explained to him my basic understanding and showed him a picture of the CSC and he said I'll give it a try. Also what else do I need to replace while the gear box is removed?

Yeah I read that the CSC was internal. I might buy a malwood alloy one if the box has to come out.

What's CSC? The cylinder attached to the clutch pedal seems fine with no leaks, so it must be the one in the gear box. How much and how hard is that to fix? I live quite remote and the workshop here is probably limited. Maybe I could order the part and they could fit it.

Driving my Ba xr6t with T56 today and it was making a weird screeching noise when the clutch was out, as soon as I put the clutch slightly in the noise stopped. I gave it a little and the clutch pedal just went fully soft and to get it home I had to match the revs to get it into lower gears. I check the clutch fluid and couldn't even see any anymore. I filled it up then pumped the clutch a few times and checked again and it had all gone. Looked underneath the car and could see what I assume was clutch fluid dripping from bottom of gear box. What do these symptoms indicate? Master cylinder gone?

Yeah had no sender with I guess that's cheap SAAS gauges

Recently purchased Saas oil temp gauge and am not sure if the ba xr6t has a oil temp sender I can splice into. If not where and what do I need to buy to hook it up. Thanks

Most likely the wastegate is not doing its job and staying closed due to a leaky diaphram in the actuator causing car to over boost.

how short are we talking with the 14mm socket, is it a specialized socket or can u get them from say repco.

Found one of my turbo to manifold bolts hanging off, cannot for the life of me figure out how to get any kind of tool in there to tighten it. Its the bottom one near the actuator. I have taken the heat shielding off and I can only get one finger in there let alone a tool. Does the actuator need to come off or am I missing something?

My bonnet struts have lost their ability to hold the bonnet up and I need to do some work under there. Anyone got any advice on replacing them. Thinking about getting ford to do it but I'm sure it's pretty easy. Any help??

Cheers guys. Is it best to get genuine ford or are ones on eBay just as good

I obviously pulled them out when I did the plugs a few weeks ago and they looked in good nick. Do you think there is a coincidence that I have recently pulled the plugs and the coils are now dying or could I have not put one back on properly. How sensitive are they

How will I know it's definitely coils before I go and buy a new set of 6. Are standard Ford coils the way to go?

Yes, Plugs replaced about 500km ago. Standard Ford plugs. Car only has 90,000km. Been driving it round before and I think it could be more of a spark issue as it boosts fine and once it hits around 3500RPM it backs off like something is holding it back. Pulls hard up until then though and if I load it up in a higher gear like 4th of 5th it runs perfect. it just seems to do it in 2nd and 3rd when it gets around 3500. Called Peckys Performance but cant get in for around a week or two.

Checked all the hoses and were fine. Seems a bit better today but still breaking down at higher revs. I'd rather see a tuner than go to ford. Anyone know a tuner in Darwin

Righto I'll have to order one of those Kiwi Wifi things then or go to a tuner. Any suggestions for where to go up in Darwin.

Hi guys have a suspicion that my 2005 BA MKII XR6T is overboosting and going into limp mode. The car is stock besides a K&N Filter and Snorkel + a FPV F6 cooler. Has run fine with these mods and nothing has changed but last night it was a little colder than normal up here in the NT and When I gave it some it would build boost and then hit some kind of cut out around 3-4000RPM. Happens every time now. Car did have a 1/4 tank at the time but have since filled it up with BP Ultimate and still does the same thing. Any ideas on what to check?

Yeah this happened to me too. Just broke one day for no good reason and left the thread in the crossover so there is only a tiny hole where air can get in. I just left it there for now and it seems to stay there, mind u I dont drive it much these days. Went down to Ford and the part was about $20. It had to come from Melbourne and Im in Darwin so I chose not to get it that day.

Would it flow better than standard? I ask because if I get a bigger cooler it might overboost with a higher flowing cat.

It still has two mufflers. Here is some more pics. The rear half looks standard. Maybe it just had a stuffed cat and that was replaced. either way would the cat be a high flow version or just a cheapo replacement.

Hey all, Got my BA MKII XR6T a few weeks ago and it seems to have deeper exhaust note than others. When I had it on the hoist I noticed it had what looked like an aftermarket cat and different piping. Sorry this is the only photo I have at the moment but it shows what the cat looks like. Does this look normal or not? Thanks