nezbang

BA xr8 wheels for a 18in to fit...this could be handy for track work...

very very nice looking mate... I run 6/4 brembos on my fg ute and when I saw the yellow harrops after I got htem I was like NOOOO I love love love yellow calipers they are so horn... the yellow onthe nitro blue would be sick... whats put me off them is I still could fit a mean offset 18 on my 355mm rotors but I doubt I get a 18 on them... I run 19in FPV Cobra copies but want he 18s for good selection of semi slick... I was really interested that the fronts alot thiner in the caliper I think I could the stock fgmk1 lux 19s on them... I run a 25mm bolt on spacer in the rear so the rear harrop caliper wouldn't be an issue. I'm thinking later down the track of going the harrop ultimate kit (for the bigger rotors, the yellow calipers and the 2 piece rotors), to get two piece rotors now is a big cost and I would love to get the brembos properly painted/ coated yellow but another cost... do you think it be worth or just run the 6/4 brembo with better than OEM pads and suck it up...lol Once again looks mad!

how much were they....new lines for e85 from the top of tank to hard line and hard to fuel rail? cheers

been reading this with great interest like you all... I was going to go a gt3582 billet on a 0.7 upgrade then I was nope..GTX3582 so I ditched the front 0.7housing I had.. I have a spare factory rear housing for the port mod but most places want 400-500 for this (mr turbo on the goldy is only 10mins from my house) and does them under 300 but then I got to get a accuator and that set it up...could be a bit off in the set up (the accuator) and be stuffed time tuning time while costing onthe dyno...so gtx 1600-1700, rear housing I got about 100-150 ish I paid, accuator (say a good turbo smart one) 180, turbine port mod, 300 so total that's 2230 tops. now there a place selling the pte 6262 with 6boost manifold and turbosmart 50mm gate for 3400 now.. the thing is its a t4 flange, oil only tubo... I wanted to know if the 6262 is pretty much the same as a 6235 but designed for a 35 rear housing and water cooled core too to bolt up.. I want to get a 6 boost factory mount manifold, the 6235 and a Kinugawa gt35 1.06 housing exturnal gate housing I'm thinking this could be an awesome way to go...I'm just not sold on all these 400kw + number and still controled via a 38mm internal gate.. I main reason is I don't wan tto stuff around with the set up and risk the boost control issue that have been with some I want a good reason for an exturnal gate and could set up a V-band for atmo and plumb back set up for when I feel like making lots of noise. the exturnal gate will go awesome with my eboost street and my plans to run a 12-14psi setting for missus, wet, towing, big load in back work and 18-20ish psi for every other time...lol will the cheap kinugawa turbin housing be sweet or spend a bit more (not sure on how much more) to get genuine - local also on a 6boost manifold should come on as good as factory ba maybe fg and make a bit more top end.. This is all on a 2008 FG auto very much down for a group buy on a PTE6235 without accuators/brackets = cheaper??? I hope. will have to hide this from issus for a while...

you'll be sweet I towed a 2000kg dingo trailer (diesel dingo digger with the bucket, treancher, 3 post hole pits, the post hole attachment its self, tools and stuff in the ute and would do this in the wet up and down the gold coast hinterland (did this most weekends for about a year got a tad hot (just a couple needles over half on like a 35 degree hot as day)....just be smart in the wet and down hill and she handled it awesome...that's a FG2008 xr6 turbo auto (no aftermarket oil coolers or anthing... I am lead to beleive the auto is 2300 with a upgrade tranny oil cooler (so a simple PWR one or what not) and was 2000 without or something I saw a difference printer somewhere...but yeah that auto and the turbo engine..no dramas.

is it bad to blip the ZF on down shifts...cuase I do it all the freaking time...I think I got it down pat...I miss manuals but not at the same time.

what did you pay in Australia for it?? I got my uncle coming soon and might add this onto the order goign to his house..it 90usd for both the autometer and msd one.

Yeah... Just my bare foot on the concrete... Lol I've been very halfed arsed about this... ( had heaps of family over and going to dinners, all that Chrisy time stuff) so done bugger all... That manual pretty much did nothing for my problem of getting this plate down or what's ment to happen??? Does that little plate between the bell housing and the sump come down... I've pulled the bottom 6 smaller bolts out and yeah not sure if I'm missing something or being a little bitch... I haven't seen any proper diagram for this and getting to the flex plate to converter bolts... It's a FG ute but using bf manuals cause there no FG workshop manuals out yet I can see...

Cheers for that... I got a different oil cooler so all good on that. So that plate must be able to drop out... Also if I don't have them anti static gloves how important is that... Seams pretty important, a lot of warnings about it... If I keep one hand on the box it should be good?

HI everyone I have searched everywhere I can on the net and nothing shows me some little this too know.. this is the first auto box I have pulled out and yeah a bit lost... the BA-BF workshop ellorys manual I have is very very basic in how to pull the box out...goes in detail on other basic things and rebuilding the zf box its self but not what I want to know... I pulled the drive shaft out...marked the diff, shaft, and output yoke so that the same when installing there and pulled out the 6 x 13mm (head) bolts on the bottom of the bell housing but not sure on how to get a "inspection plate off" or find the bloody with if its the plate between the sump housing the bell housing then do I just pray it down to get to the back of the flex plate to get to the torque converter bolts to get them off the flex plate... I'm doing this cause I'm sure I have the dreded loose flex bolts to crank... got a new flex plate and bolts readdy to go and going to tack them on and thread lock and be all good.. any help on that would be awesome...cheers

I'm getting a wried as sound too like this...but in a auto...after 122,000km but only just recently got a tune and 400rwhp.. had a very good hard drive of it the weekend before and its a rattle on idle but as soon any revs or power applied it goes away...drives fine...I'm thinking flex plate/ fly wheel bolts loose...is it a big job...(the biggest thing I've done on this so far is turbo off) (I've done engines out and in on smaller cars and that)..also thinking should I do my engine out oil pump/ head studs/ valve spring upgrade now....in one hit... sorry hijack....

about 700-800 on the council bridge... lowered on king SL front and rear with poly air bags helpers (I love them the air bags) and this before that... probably about same but was out camping past beaudesert and had three mates on the back when coming in back to the camp site (dirt privates roads not being stupid)...the 4x4 boys did look impressed though...lol