Spoony

Cheers, I sort of stumbled on this the other day messing about with the Aux. Aux seems to almost not use the sub at all, so I tried unplugging the amp etc and noticed changes. My guess pluggin it in 'bridges' something so the headunit activates a crossover mode/circuit. I didn't test for line level to the amp but I assume a pair of the wires is line level I could use to an aftermarket amp, disconnecting the sub, giving better/aftermarket main speakers full range at the same time. As long as the bass isn't cranked the headunit still seems to manage near the as with the cross over enabled

I'm wondering if anyone knows if the 'premium' sound headunit feeds full range to the front (and rear I guess) speakers or is crossed over/filtered in some way? For the time being I'm just going to swap in another sub and change out the 5x7's to something like these Ryda Car Audio - Kicker DS680.2 5x7" DS Component Speakers($145.45) up front and just coax's up the back, but it 'sounds' to me like the speakers don't get full range. It could just be the extremely crappy factory speakers though. I know the standard headunit isn't going to be a powerhouse but I'd imagine should sound substantially better anyway. Anyone know what sort of power output it has? I'm guessing maybe 30-40w/ch ? Running an amp via speaker to line level converted feed is never going to achieve a real clean sound anyway. Cheers

I didn't think of that, suprised it still had enough room! I have a 10inch kicker not being used but not sure how well it will work in parcel shelf. (seems to light small ported boxes). I'm guessing it was this model Vifa 10" Subwoofer - Jaycar Electronics ?? With a Qts value of 0.73 this driver would seem perfectly suited for the application.

Cheers, I rang WOW yesterday, no longer stock (and they checked all stores) doh. Might sus Auto$cam or ebay from states cheaper lol.

Figured maybe an hour job on a hoist. I was going to do it myself but figure, meh might take me two hours off the hoist (ie air box out etc) but was in for service so figured, why not, (oil & filter) so the oil filter would have been off also! arrrrrrrrg 2.5hrs and $220 ($88/hr) WTF !

So a BIG improvement from the stocker? Thing is I got no idea how the stocker runs, oddly it was missing from my car (amp and wiring etc is all in though!). I've got an old boxed 10 (kicker) out of another car running off the stocker amp at the moment, which is much better than no sub. I also have a spare amp, If I can get better than the current 10 driven 'weakly' off the stock amp using the Polk + a better amp I'd be happy. Need boot space! Where did you get the Polk from?

I had my BFII in for service (120k) the other day and got the mechanic to remove the oil feel line filter/mesh (he'd never heard of anything like it in other cars and only works on turbo/modded cars) Luckily it wasn't blocked up, but safest to remove anyways. How long does this normally take to do? His charged 2.5hrs labour to do this! Seems an aweful long time, I would have expected less time than this if I was doing it at home without a hoist!

I'm looking at doing this also. Looking at the specs of the three subs mentioned the Polk may be the best option. Realistically boxed or free air one should aim to achived a total Qt value of around 0.7 for best results. The lower the value the less mechanical/electrical reistance the higher the more. So in free air situation a low Qt will see a poor control and likely 'kick'. The Polk is spec'd at 0.6, add the fact there is some interior boot lining etc and this would likely increase a little. Sensitivity of 90db http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/specs/8inch/speakers/mm840dvc/ The JBL is 0.42, so I would imagine a bit 'loose' for this application, reasonable sensitivity of 91db http://www.jbl.com/resources/Brands/jbl/Products/ProductRelatedDocuments/en-US/BoxesandParameters/GTO%20804D.pdf The Pioneer is a huge 1.64 !!!!! I would think it would be very tight even in free air, maybe 'hit' ok (if feed enough power) but be somewhat lacking in output? It also has fairly low sensitivity of 85db making this worse! Ryda Car Audio - Pioneer Car Audio TS-SW841D 8" Subwoofer($218.85) So on paper for this application the Polk would seem to be the best option.

Cheers for the heads up, that oil line feed sounds like the biggest worry. WTF putting a filter in the block fitting for, I've never seen this in the many turbo cars I've owned over the years! As the filter is in the fitting on the block I guess as per Australian Ford Forums - Braided Lines & Filter Fitting Tutorial, Turbo 6 you could remove the filter and refit. In that thread they put an after market line on but really the line/hose diameter would be ample not to cause an issue vs the filter once it's been removed? Yes my experience, especially with turbo cars is they oil goes quite dark fairly quickly. This is what suprised me when I checked it, it was almost like looking at freshly changed oil. And yep I have no doubts dump it into a pan it it will look far from like new oil. hmmm maybe the oil isn't getting any oil and that's why it's clean. haha.

suspension doesn't seem too bad, there is a bit of a knock I think front right (or maybe just RHS in general) over certain bumps but its quite random and not super common. Other than that I took it up the hills on the weekend and seems faily planted and settled, I didn't mind it for such a big tank of a car. I should read up on what the commonly worn/replaced bushes are and look at doing this maybe later in the year though. What suprised me is standard 15,000 intervals have been the service schedule, its due now, and the oil is amazingly clean (still golden even) after 15k. I asked the owner and he only and he said no, last time was at 105,000 as per the book. Is 7500 really necessary? I guess it depends how hard it is pushed, mods, and also type of driving (city vs country) + how quicly the oil is deterioriating? Funny you mention the 'premium' sound. I thought it sounded very limp, but didn't notice till after purchase the sub was missing. The owner (older guy) said he always thought it was lacking but didn't know. Looking at the bolt holes that are 100% clean and full paint coverage so I'd say it was missed at manufacture. It's actually a 06/06/07 so first of the BFII 'upgrades', with prem/climate/18's etc so I guess maybe it was friday and they guy wanted to go home. The amp's in there and works, its running 10' in the boot. I was thinking of trying to fit a 10' in the 8' hole spacing it up and then dynamating/or similar the parcel shelf so I have full boot space & access

He pulled these rubbers also when he noticed the Windscreen Obriens sticker. He said they are hopeless and often cut the paint when getting the screen out which end later in much rusty pain. Looks ok in there at the moment. Yeah I was thinking of pulling all the rubbers and using lanotec/lanolin in everywhere, that stuff doesn't dry out and go away like WD40 and the like. Work mint on my Ski in salt water so probably all that is needed. Maybe a redo every 6months/year on more exposed areas. I'm more worried about the areas one can't see and aren't yet known as common issues. (Heard mention in behind the rear bumper there is a trouble spot somewhere) I guess if one gets a new car every 5 years from new who cares (well does hurt resale) but I plan on keeping this one at least another 5-7 or more.

I do see your point, but my mate does see a bucket load of these things along with eleventy other types of cars. He bascially does the repair work needed to get vehicles ready for sale, even told me how he 'fixes' them up for sale, he's not BS'ing. I managed to find threads about boot rust, have a look up under the top corners of the boot (inside) at the seam, mines late 07 and already has some very minor surface rust in there. Australian Ford Forums - Boot leak on BA Check out the rust in my 07 BF -- Ya might wanna check yours - Ford Australia Forums I was just baging out this issue, quite poor in this day and age for it to be any sort of problem, but Territory's are know for it also in the tail gate, he recons without fail everyone will have rust. It would appear Ford's skimping on sealing seems/joins and unseen panels as a cost saving measure perhaps? As for the price, it's what I paid. They guy wanted the residual on his lease paid. Sure it has 120,000kms (all highway, it's life was Towoomba to Brisbane and back), but is full logbook serviced at Toowoomba Fraud dealer so figured this should be nothing one one of these (have had many japers done 300,000kms, including turbo). I'd imagine 400,000kms well maintained should be achievable with one of these? The market for most things at the moment is very limp, trust me I'm trying to sell a late model sportsbike. What people are listing/asking and what people will actually get are two different things. The cheapest other one I found at the time was near on $5k more (asking) with similar/more KM's and in no better condition (mine is very clean, no at single door ding or anything). But more on topic I'm firstly happy to bring this to peoples attention, have a close inspect and see, but also did want to know about peoples suggestions/experience in minimising these issues as per my original post. I could just leave everything and then use the 5 year body warranty but as with most body repairs their best prevented. Cheers.

'rust' a bit of a hush topic on here perhaps?

First post so Hey. Recently picked up a BF II XR6T late 07 (so with 18's, dual climate control goodness and so call 'premium' sound) etc for $15k. (Damn I'd hate to be buying a coon new, depreciate much!!) There are a few lil niggling issues (seems fairly common with coons) with the car but might cover that later/elsewhere. Anyways a mate who works in car yards immediately started going over it last night....... I got stuss. He's like well they can rust out here, here, oh and here etc. I was like WTF, it's 3 years old no such thing, he chuckled. I guess it's just Aussie made crap though, I've always owned Jap, other car is 16yr old U13 Bluebird, it had two dust pans of mud in the front guards, but zero rust, must have been sitting soaking wet for years but no issue. Anyways as I plan to keep this car for a while I figured perhaps look at doing a few small preventative measures? Mate said they rust in the engine bay around the battery, top of the strut tower areas and and in the seams along the chassis rails. + Also in the boot around the struts etc. Much of it seems to be a design flaw and poor workmanship. Ie the seams point up ways to collect water/dirt, and the paint coverage on the these areas is pathetic. He suggested just getting some clear paint in a tin and brushing it into these areas to give better coverage and seal it up. Does this sound suitable? Obvoiusly this wouldn't be really noticable given its clear. I also thought of just spraying lanolin in/on the areas ever 6 months to a year. I understand there is 5 year warranty on the body but would rather not have the hassle of fixing such issues and more than not it re occurs.