Spoony

I had the car on the hoist the other week for a few bits getting done under warranty. It's 120k BFii T. It looked like the diff bush had been done not all that long ago (could see fresh grease where it was pressed) and also looked in new condition. As these things chew out over time, I was pondering the idea of filling the voids with Sika Flex 292. This stuff is awesome, I use it to seal in the pump stuffer on my standup jetski, so it can handle the force of 120hp jet pump with water/sand/whatever crap that goes through it. My idea is it would add extra support to the existing rubber. I know of people doing this with FWD engine mounts with success.

WOW, so it's safe to assume that Fraud AU is buying it for no more than $5/L themselves yet selling it for $60/L? That is just rediculous, do they really hate their customers that much? WTF! I hear what your saying on the flushing with Transmax, though from what I've read about 5L goes in/out with a normal change/service. that's $300 of Fraud oil, (@ $60/L, I rang up and got a current price). That is outrageous. I've found a fair bit more info on the ford oil here http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1829776 and on some other links bascially the Fraud oil is like a 'thin' economy oil, with a low thermal value etc. The other alternatives like Transmax Z are of similar oil but offer better thermal protection etc. This would explain possibly why people find the boxes shift better with these oils. Even cycling the oil a few times one would still end up with Fraud oil mixed with whatever you put in. From what I can see they are still the same 'basic' type of oil, one with just better properties. Doing a 'standard' drop and change would obviously leave more old oil and one would expect to end up with weaker version of Transmax without the full improved properties if it was 100% clean refil. Some more reading here http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/automatic_transmission_fluids.htm It seems it's just a Dextron III oil but to meet ZF approval they have to have specific testing, and inturn I figure why most oil manufactures don't list theirs as 'suitable' .

The 'warranty' is only covering just to fix the problem. Ie just replace the gasket and stop the leak. So this would reuse the pan and oil. Pretty crap if you ask me. The cars got 122,000 on it, and only been Fraud serviced so wouldn't have had the tranny done. While I understand its suppose to be 'sealed' and non service item I find this hard to beleive? The cars life is pretty much 100% highway (ie 120,000km in 3 years) with no city, which is probably very easy on the trans (locked up in 6th most of its life), so oil may not be too bad? I've priced up getting metal pan, filter, gasket, filter, and Oil (transmax z, screw paying Fraud $60/l, and ZF oil option is 20l drum only!). Which would be $310 - $390 just in parts depending on how much oil goes back in. ? Labour would be covered as it has to happen anyways. I can get a full flush and service with metal pan, filter etc for $550 from trans shop (The Boxstop not far from work) using Nulon full syth oil. I figure this is a better option than just re using the pan and old oil, or getting the normal mechanic just to do an oil change, which obviously wouldn't get as much oil 'changed' over ? Will try and hit the mechanic doing the warranty work up for some cash/kick back on the labour & seal they would have allowed for & being paid for. Any ideas how long labour would be? 1hr, 3hrs?

cheers spool, good info!

cheers guys! hiro only sells aftermarket right? (ie metal pan) Cause it's still under this warranty gaids may need to just keep genuine (ZF) for now. Motospecs was it, couldn't remember at all haha.

BFii T is going in to get a few things sorted under warranty. It's extended warranty so it's going to a workshop a mate works. Work has been approved but as the pan will have to come off the ZF, a new pan will obviously be needed (not reusable as I understand?) and replacment oil. I understand that all of the oil doesn't drain out of the system, in this case is it best just be replaced with the genuine oil instead of Transmax Z or something? I assume they would be similar oil 'types' so compatible, but never know how much the evil of mixing oils is just 'talk' cause it sounds bad. (realisticly it happens every change if same oil isn't used, be it diff, engine or trans) I also stumbled on a supplier that is an agent for ZF parts/oils/etc but I can't remember what they were called. Obvoiusly it would be better to get the pan, gasket oil etc from here than Fraud? Anyone know what they are called? Cheers

oh really, so not something that should be just undone. So the main caps are bolted in place using the sump on these? The sump is pretty full on looking vs usual tin pan I guess. Will take another look, but it certainly looks like it, much more oil immediately around the bolt than anywhere else. Doens't drip on the ground though. Should be fixed under annoying 'extended' warranty (oh the joys of these), but am using a mates mechanic workshops so thought I'd find out for myself first. (I'm sure he will also and be sure not to go dropping anything in the motor).

As you can see in the pic the right rear side bolt in the sump (BFii T) has some oil leak/weeping. I'm guessing maybe the bolt has a gasket or oring on it and perhaps just needs a tighten or a remove & refit. However I'm wondering what these bolts are for? Do they hold something inside the sump? If I was to undo this single bolt would something fall in the sump? Cheers

basically just go off the insurers then, they list July 07 & on listed as 'update' so if it's build date is that or after, then u'd be safe to put it down as 'update' and them bits included. If it's older then dunno how it would work.

Can't say I've seen one but haven't had the car long and never would have bothered to look/notice before hand. Every reference (insurance/parts etc etc) to the 'upgrade' is July 2007 build, which this car is. So it would be the first batch of the 'updates'. I asked the owner and he didn't specifiy any thing extra, but knew of the update and waited till he could get one of these models to get the extra goodies for free. I'd say more that fraud being fraud it slipped through at this time the updates started going through, so the paint scheme is as per standard but the other goodies got put into the car that were with the updates. Also intersting and I'd say due to this 'update' changes in production it was missing the sub driver. I asked the owner (older guy in late 40's early 50's) and he said he always thought it was a bit limp for 'premium' sound but was pretty clueless. I cloesly inspected the screw/bolt holes, still filled with fresh paint as if no screw/bolt had ever gone in there. The amp is there and works (running a 10 now), all the rest of the premo gear is there, it's like it was a non upgrade that became and upgrade 1/2 through its build. haha.

mines an update, I think 07/07 build. It has the clock, dual zone, premo sound, 18's, but I think the darker grey accents came a little later in 07 early 08. Or perhaps were only on certain colours? (mine is the poo acid colour though, maybe they didn't want to touch such beauty? bwahahaha)

I know from FWD cars a stiffer rear bar helps move them to a more netural/overstear balance but may not apply to rwd cars. I would think no rear bar would give more rear end traction/movement but at the expense of the front end, ie the rear end would 'push' on the front?

does removing it present any legal/roadworthy issues I wonder?

cheers for all the advise!! interesting removing the rear sway bar is positive move. I'm guessing this would make the car less understeer prone? Is body roll increased much?

That should work ok, not overly efficent but it appears to be designed by lower powered amps. + with a Qts value of .812 it should work well free air.

Fulcrum are just up the road from home so will talk to them! At mate just recommended Ken at Accurate Suspension (Underwood), which is close to work also. Apparently they've sent a number of coons to him from their workshop to sort sh*t. I don't have ambitions to track it (way more fun on a bike). Nor any want to lower it, standard is a PITA even for some of the place I go. I figure at 120,000kms the shocks have done their day, but ATM don't really have coin to overhall the whole lot. Maybe bushes now to save tyres and shocks early next year. Can one run the standard springs with say some bilstiens? I want to keep the ride quite good as do a bit of towing (bikes/skis) and quite a bit of distance at times.

car is dead stock, hard to say if rears are also giving issues, tyres are warn but I'm sure they have been swaped back to front at least once before. Yeah I leave DCS on, if find it makes me worse though, allowing for single accerator setting (ie flat) for quick intersection exits and the like haha.

so the front can be sorted, but what's the fix for the rear? Again seems to be an issue right through the models, R&D doesn't exist at Ford?

wow, that's bad, almost looks like its on the sidewall! I have noticed also under braking on some road surfaces it does tramline a bit, which is a sign of poor alignment also. Will get sorted asap so hopefully I can get at least another 15-20k out of these tyres. grrrrr

There is a suspension guy I used eleventy years ago with an old car, might go see what he thinks/recommends. Arrrg, I don't wanna hear it 'keeps wearing', there is 60%+ in the middle of the tyres. I wonder how many cop cars are/were getting around with flogged out tyres? lol

wow, 60,000 is impressive! At least it sounds like it should be able to be sorted. Little sad thought it does seem to be a standard issue? Tyres were at 32-34psi when I got it. I've been running up around 40psi, with the am to try get some more of the centre wearing on the road. lol

Ok so what has to be fixed/modified to make the front tyres on these things (BFii) last on the edge (esp inside) anywhere even remotely close to the centre life of the tyre? I'm pretty certain this issue is a design flaw. I've only had my BFii for a short period and it's smashing the inside edge in no time. Brothers BF F6 is the same, & his BFii work ute. Not to mention the odd one I've sussed in carparks. From what I've heard this issue dates back to the BA's, how they cannot fix it many models/years later is beyond me. So what does one do as it would seem an allignment fixes nothing due to design flaws. Can anyone recommend I guess a suspension shop in Brisbane that can sort this issue? At the cost of tyres I'm guessing one would maybe only see 1/2 the life of the tyre, so sorting this to wear/work properly should be worth the investment? Cheers.

dynamat is my next thing. I did notice just how flexible the shelf is though (grab the back of the sub and can move it/shelf a fair bit, the fact the driver is quite heavy to prob dont' help). This would likely be more of an issue once better amped(powered) but wouldn't be helping eitherway. Dynamat probably wont help here much but short of bracing the shelf probably not much can do. No I need to work out what front speakers. I've read only good things about these Shopping Secure - Car Audio Specialists - SPL Dynamics SD-6.2 expecially for the price. Might put the std front speaker split setup in the rear. While obviously still crap, seem much better than what is in the rear standard?

Yep, a couple of crimp on spade connectors on wire from you sub and you can plug this straight into the factory connector save you cutting etc.

I striped an old 10inch Kicker out of a box I've had for years (happy to see "Freeair" on the back of the thing lol). Made up some MDF spacers and mounted it. Works near as good as in the box in the boot. I'd imagine once I redo the mounting more solid and dynamat the shelf it should work even better. Due to the spacers and the size of the sub I had to remove the rear under carpet, but meh, can't see that anyways so doesn't really matter. Much better than having a box in the boot taking up space.