Spoony

maybe but I don't think so (have felt gone wheel bearings before). It's sort of like a deep resonance through the car as it slows down, or at certain throttle load (on off) etc. I haven't tried but I don't think it will do it in neutral as it seems more like a engine/drivetrain load thing on decel. You've got me thinking now though, so can see how it goes, brakes, no brakes, in drive, in neutral etc. cheers.

I know the diff bush on my BF is getting a bit shagged. However I've also noticed the car developing a sort of 'hummmm'/harmonic vibration, most noticable on deceleration around 40km/hr. I wonder if it could be the diff bush also. I have read they also can cause knocks/clunks from the back end over bumps when they are on their way out too? Seems most noticable on bumps that only effect once side/single wheel of the car. Happens on both sides hence why I'm thinking it could also be the diff bush too? Last time it was on the hoist (8000kms ago) all other bushes looked fine. I think I'll go the Superpro comfort bush, hopefully it lasts well?

Car: 07 BFii XRT Trans: 6sp ZF Auto Turbo: STD Induction: STD (extra hole cut bunnings spec) Intercooler: Process West Stage 1 Exhaust: STD (cat change only) Fueling: JTG Liquid Inj. LPG (taxi spec) Boost: 10 PSI Power: 287rwkw Tuner: Pitlane Performance.

Gulf must have paid the ZF testing/approval costs, which others CBF'd or see fit to do. Given the various brands are the same/similar rated fluids, and most of them actually better spec wise than the stock stuff, most of all peoples big concerns are surely hype/talk/myth and likely partly pushed on by Frauds attempts to force people to pay for their liquid gold.

pw stage 1 fitted. Seat of the pants seems pretty much the same. Power delivery does seem a bit more linear and seems more willing past 5000rpm. On stock boost and tuning I doubt one can expect much. Should help muchly once mick gets his hands on it next week though

I wouldn't think that would be an issue? Seems a minor difference that surely they should be built to accomodate for. Heck the stock spare doesn't work out exacty the same dia as the alloy 18's mine came with. Of interest Mine seems to where the left rear more than the right rear anyways, so it's been running prob 2mm+ difference for ages no dramas.

http://www.processwest.com.au/website/prod_xr6t/pw_product_fordxr6_stage1ic.htm I'm not sure how true the results are (intial figures seem a bit low), but that's an awesome gain if it's true. If the temp readings are correct, again, a huge difference in sustantianed performance. I'm fitting the same stage1 this arvo in prep for car going down to Mick @ Pitlane for Li LPG & tuning. So will let ya know how much difference 'seat of the pants' a cooler makes on a stock BFII.

Just found Aust Ford Forums have a database of all codes, WIN. info below. Its definately related to pedal pos sensor not the TPS. Either wire issue or its faulty by looks of it. Time to go to Fraud and make more use of this extended warranty. P2127 Accelerator pedal position (APP) Circuit E (APP2) low input Damaged APP Damaged wiring and or connectors to APP Defective PCM P2129 Accelerator pedal position (APP) Circuit E (APP2) intermittent fault Damaged APP Damaged wiring and or connectors to other: APP Defective PCM P2138 Accelerator pedal position APP1 and APP2 disagree Damaged accelerator pedal position sensor Damaged or defective wiring between the accelerator pedal sensor and PCM P2140 Accelerator pedal position APP2 and APP3 disagree Damaged accelerator pedal position sensor Damaged or defective wiring between the accelerator pedal sensor and PCM

Yep electronic throttle, I dunno what was wrong with cable, hell most standard cable throttle cars I find more repsonsive/better to drive. lol It's obviously only very minor, I guess an out of 'range' issue more so than a complete stuffed issue as the car runs 100% fine.

yep, already tried that one. looking at the code info it's not all that helpful as TPS is throttle position sensor, PPS is Pedal Position Sensor, the SW means Sensor or Switch. So doesnt' actually tell you if it's TPS or PPS, Interestingly they are all voltage releated, so wondering if car has an voltage level issue tripping this or the just the throttle circuit. It does start fine.

Hi, hoping someone more knowledged than me could shed some light on this one! Ok so the coon's (07 XR6T's) been sitting a week or so in the driveway not started. I start it yesterday and I've got an ETC (Electronic Throttle Control) warning on the dash. At ZERO throttle it flashes, with any throttle it goes solid. According the manual flashing means a fault that wont affect peformance, soild means it will affect performance. The car runs/drives as normal however. I did have this fault come up (soild not flashing) many months ago once. I turn car on off and it went....... until now. (****s me now not driving it for a week would make a difference) Took it to a mates workshop last night with a scan tool and pulled the codes out of it as per the picture below. (ignore the bus fault code, no worried it didn't come back after clearing) Codes 2127 & 2129 come back immediately after clearing, 2138 & 2140codes only come up after throttle has been used. Anyone shed anymore light on this? It appears to be the TPS maybe, but when driving at idle, ETC is flashing = top two codes, apply throttle then it goes solid (indicating 2nd two codes). The weird part is I can drive & accerate using cruise control and the ETC light only flashes, never goes solid. Now the cruise would be still using the throttle, just not getting the signal from the pedal box, instead direct from the ECU I assume. To me this indicates possible fault at the TPS at idle but issue between pedals and TPS at throttle. (****s me how seeming two faults pop up out of blue) We graphed the voltage with throttle action and 0.5 at 0 throttle and seemed to get up near 5v at full/high throttle. Hence I guess why car runs 100% fine. The kicker is, it's under warranty still (extended) but the reparier has to submit quote/issue and it gets approved. I've seen people chase issues like this big time, dont' really want to just get a TPS (the cheap part), then find its the pedal box component (dearer part). The car drives to Melbourne next weekend, so really do need it sorted by then! Cheers. Dan

I've already been here. Unless it's changed in the past month, basically there is only the JTG Li system that can suit/be modified etc. If you go to the Aust LPG warehouse web you'll find there are two authorised fitters in Brisbane (Metropolitan Gas & Carb n' Gas). I have visted both, if you want a 'default' system fitted, either no doubt can do a good job. If you want to get a system fitted + mods + dyno & more HP then locally your out of luck. I rang and visted a number of tuners that get mention when it comes to T's, and non were experienced with LPG, some even very negative toward it. For me, I would want a complete drive away solution that works, no get gas fitted one place, rather than give car to someone with no experience/knowledge in gas and then let them try to tune/mod it etc. Based on threads on this forum and personal discussion I've booked the car in with Mick at Pitlane Automotive in Melbourne, his done these cars before with aim to gain power/suit mods etc. Sure melbournes a big hike, but I've tied it in with misses visiting the olds/friends (drive's car down) and me going down to World Super Bikes @ PI and driving it back. From what I've heard, melbourne is the LPG capital, it's less common up here, but more so when it comes to modified & HP aimed gas

doh, wont let me edit my thread, but it appears you are right. I just re read this link http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1829808 in my previous post. So if this it he case and Mercon SP is the spec, then all the paranoia about running not $rip off$ oil really is null and void.

You sure Mercon SP is the 'spec', because the Nulon also meets this, and DX VI . If the spec is Mercon SP and the oil meets it then warranty claims cannot be void by using the not Fraud $11ty oil crap. I can't seem to find if Transmax Z is (Not sure why Castrol doesn't want to make all this info available easy? I'm blind maybe) but no doubt it if the others are. Interesting is the life claims. 75,000 miles so 120,000kms on the Valvoline. Download the PDF for Transmax and it's 100,000km for heavy duty use, or 300,000km for highway. So I'd guess any of the full syth top shelf are designed for long term use. It would seem quite a few people are pouring $coin$ litterally through their gearbox on here. I've heard of people changing it every 15,000kms!!!

oh I forgot about my own thread. As per the nulon thread, I got 5L of Nulon Full Syth and it took the whole lot. Will likely change again to refresh/dilute more next regular service. As for the strap, I doubt my mechanic did, car drives exactly the same as before. I think shifts might be a tad smoother, and alittle bit more direct/positive when shifting in manual mod.

I 'bogan spec' sound deadend the parcel shelf last night (using FlashTac, already has some so why spend $'s on Dynamat). I've still gotta redo my 8 to 10'inch MDF spacer as its no 100% atm, but as other have said, Dynamatting the parcel shelf does help and is noticable.

yes certainly the full proper way to go but given 99% of ZF's out there either have old oil and are still probably going, or even if they think they've had a full service is not more than a 'fill' service. It'll get there, just maybe in a few 10k's or driving lol. Needed coin for OS holiday otherwise would have. Was hoping warranty (extenced Swann) would cover oil/flush etc but fail! I wonder what Fraud would do underwarranty, re use the oil to no doubt as its 'specified' as 'for life'.

Do take note though, from the calls I've made around the trans shops, they generally seem not to 'flush' the system unless the oil was stupidly black/dirty (I guess they'd then tell the customer this) or if you request it at added expense. So based the prices I've seen many people get quoted on this forum, most/many are quitely likely only getting what I have. Some use the genuine stuff (and is reflected in 30-40% more cost for the job), others full syth aftermarket such as the Nulon, Transmax etc. Anyways at least it seems Nulon will work fine, I'd say even better if 100% flushed so no issue using (thus far) in the ZF. I'm sure you'll hear from me in tears if there is. haha.

So is a flush basically dropping it twice then? (given 5 L came out and went in). You'd hardly still be getting it all out anyways, just diluting it further. So basically what will happen next service. I would imagine given the system holds 9-10L? That one would have to run 20L through it, maybe 4 drops to be fairly certain the bulk of oil is mainly fresh? The oil that came out wan't 'new' autotrans red, but wasn't at all black, more brown, it had a sent to it but certainly no burning smell etc. But sure ideally one would want the oil to be 100% new, it's obviously just a labour/time thing + large quanity of oil combo to get there. I figure pan had to come off in mine anyways (warranty on pan gasket weep), but that's all they covered, so for a trip to supercheap + steal pan/filter from motospec's (tried ringing Hiro but was out of time) I've for 50% new oil that's probably a bit better, so now is 1/2 the age (sort of) diluted to what was in there. Either way it's better, and in future I just need a filter & some Nulon.

Yep. just like everyone that's changed it, to varying degrees. I'll get more and do it again next service, and should be 'refreshed/diluted' enough.

OK Nulon Full Syth in, box drives fine! It was just a service change, but 5L went it so a decent amount. Will likely do a second change next engine service or in the next while. It may acutally shift a tad smoother in normal driving, and perhaps a little more 'postive' when manual shifted, but could just be placebo.

im doin the diff same time with their syth too. Engine next time prob. SUppose to be all good products and reasonably priced in comparo. and it's australian so why support em.

Do you mean Penrite SIN ATF? Pretty sure SIN is a Penrite not Nulon range. But as stated SIN ATF is discontinued. I just got some of the Nulon Full Synth ATF from Supercheap, 1L bottles are on special at $15 ea atm, which works out pretty good (cheaper than 4L bottle price) + you only need to buy what you need. I seems to meet/list just about every spec on the bottle, yes just like all the others though 'not speced' for the ZF 6. I figure it's the same fluid The Boxstop was going to put in it and they have apparently done many then must work, like others have used the same spec syth trans in Penrite, Royal Purple and Castrol brands etc. Let ya's know how it goes when hopefully gets done on Monday.

& by 'life' they mean the 3 years they have to fix the thing under warranty, after that they give no f_@k. I look at it this way. They run clutch pack sort of setups in autos right? These obviously wear and the material contaminates the oil. Being into bikes I know all to well how quickly wet clutch packs (sure not exactly the same) contaminate the oil.

None of the oil makers recommend their oil for the ZF, be it penrite, castrol, nulon or whatever. I think basically it's because it needs to go under specific ZF testing to meet certain crap, and they probably dont' bother. It seems the search feature on this site is busted at present (I've tried using it past few days with zero results) but it would seem most people use Castrol Transmax Z with good results and no problems, also report better shifting too. Have a read of some of the links on my post here It would 'appear' the oil is pretty standard and actually inferior to some of the other options. With regards to Nulon, I asked The BoxStop up here in QLD about a service/cost etc and they use/have used the Nulon in these apparently, so it should be ok. I really think so much of the 'what oil' is simply the scare due to Fraud warranty denials and non listed 'suitablity' but oil manufacturers. I'm about to do mine but plan on using Transmax Z only because it seems to be recommended on here and used by lots of people without issue. The Nulon stuff is about $10 cheaper per 10L though & Australian.