Spoony

I'm getting a 20L drum of the Gulf Western SynTrans tomorrow, gets hooked up and flushed through/in on Monday. Here's hoping it helps with my 3rd-4th shift issue. From what Gulf Western has said the aditivies pack (friction modifiers etc??) are somewhat important with these boxes, my hope is the Nulon stuff is totally lacking. Hence why my first change still had 50% old factory fluid and the issue didn't show up, now its fair majority Nulon stuff perhaps there is too little of the properties needed to work/have an effect. Fingers crossed. lol

I found this interesting PDF attached. According to this for the 6HP26 ZF 6sp Mercon SP is the specification required by Ford. As such Nulon should be fine as it lists that it meets this spec. Yet elsewhere they contradict and say not to use it. Have enquired as to why. Seems odd. As for meeting shell Shell M1375.4 See here: http://www.lubeandtune.com.au/html/lubekey.asp ASP15 Automatic Transmission Fluid Ford Specification No. M2C 919D Mercon SP Fluid Part No. XT-6QSP Shell ATF M-1375.4 ZF 6-speed Automatic Transmission Fluid Everything seems to point to Mercon SP being used as a spec. Shell ATF M-1375.4 is I guess a type of product and not a spec or trans product used/produced (be it labeled) by a manufacturer hence probably doesn't turn up on spec lists of other manufacturers of oil products? (just a guess). Updated_ATF_Chart1.pdf

That is just weird, how could the wheels effect that? Just looking of the specs myself and for ZF the only difference is 03D for gulf and not nulon and 06D for Nulon and not Gulf. The charateristics are not identical but dont' seem too far removed. An interesting bit of info here http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1421358 So if Mercon SP is the ford spec? then it appears many fluids carry/meet this. Didn't do a full flush. Changed out around 5L's a little while ago, and drove it for a bit, did another 5 just on Friday and noticed the behaviour for the first time saturday night. I would say it's primarly Nulon in it now. It shifts normally otherwise, into 6ths has been a little 'shunty' of late but the diff bush is going so figured much could be that. In 4th it self then nuts it is fine to redline, its only when full power and shift 3-4th hi rpm. Still waiting to hear back on email from Nulon. Gulf replied near instantly happy to recommend their product. I also emailed Castrol, they say the do not have a suitable product and do not recommend Transmax Z.

Don't use Nulon Syth ATF! I did, fail, their 'lube guide' specifies it for BFii XR6T, yet after one finds out shifting to fourth = slip/flare and looks further in a difference section of their site they say 'not for ZF 6 speed'. Be interesting what they say in reply to my email. As for the Gulf Western Syntrans, they confirmed it is suitable and has the correct aditives (I explained my situation and he said there are a few products that have updated advice not to use due to issue & not containing required aditives etc). However said it does not have ZF tested approval yet. As I obvoiusly want to flush mine, helbz, where is it $160 for 20L? Autobarn said $370! whoa! edit: Scratch that, standard greedy pricks that Autobarn are. Elsewhere C M & T Quality Products Arundal gold coast, $150/20L (approx was driving). Adds to my despise of Autobarn.

Yeah July/August I'll be out again when it's nice and cold. 12.6 previously is my best on BFii in warmer weather with 10psi tune on LPG! 60's were around 2.1 so I think if I get these down plus more weather coolness a lowish 12 (maybe 12.3 at least) should be do able.

I also have a knock front rhs. Apparently all ball joints/etc check out OK so I've just put it down to the shock. BF ii, has a few kms on it so I know they need doing.

Same, If the start isn't too early I may be able to make it!

With the date now the 22nd it's a no go for me :( Mates bucks night down the coast sat will without a doubt put me out of any driving capabilties. haha (well unless its later in the day)

a bit of gravel doesn't worry a coon, I got the XR to the deepest camp sites at Landcruiser Park.. ok ish. haha, probably wouldn't do it again though.

Sounds good, do like the Mt Lindsay range. Was out there maybe a month ago and was pretty good, some roadworks on the NSW side but I'd say they would be done by now with nice new hot mix.

Willowbank Raceway BFii ZF 6sp 287rwkw (10psi tune on LPG) 60' 2.05 1/4 12.6 mph 112 Maxxis Z1's Trickier than I thought to get it out of the hole. Axel tramp or bogging down a little plagued.

I'll be out there tomorrow night if anyone else is going. Keen to see what the LPG BBQ T can crack.

25 isn't turn out, so probably is a good date for most then. lol

Lots of people go away over easter (including me) remember.

290rwkw and average around 17-18l/100km around town A-B v.short trips etc. 10-11L/100km on the highway. (BF MK2 Auto). Oh yeah and that's at 63cents/perL (Brisbane LPG Prices)

I don't think it's rocket science, my mate (normal mechanic) did mine no problems. Just ask what you are getting for the quoted price. Ie what fluid they are using, are they fitting a metal pan or a plastic, are they actually full flushing it (everyone I rang this was certainly more than just 'trans service') or just doing a fluid change. etc etc Then make the choice.

oh ok, seems a bit too frequent given 120,000 is the first recommended change (from memory). Maybe halving that is still ok but I'd say there is a problem if they are dying at 10,000kms. Coils dont' cost that much more a set than plugs. 130,000kms and my plugs and coils were still 100% fine, changing both to brand new (genuine & ngk) made zero difference (I just figure it should be done before spending coin on a dyno to run into possible dramas).

spark plugs every 10,000kms? I'm guessing you are just using standard cheapies. Why not save the time and run iridum plugs? You should really only have done maybe the original set by the current kms!

LOL @ the engine will be 'tired'. Highly unlikely unless it's been negelected as (ie hardly serviced) and thrashed for most of the 170,000kms. Pretty sure falcoon engines are known to keep on going. Turbo, if well serviced will quite likely still be ok too, but yes again some variables (ie has it beens starved at any point etc). Yes perhaps if one wants to push 20psi/max it out then an upgrade may be a good option, but for mild boosting at 170,000, all serviced/treated well it should ok. Yes sure wear an tear components (suspension etc etc) will come into play these vary with kms, but also age and how the car has been driven, hard soft, out right abused etc. This applies to any car. The cat is the most restrictive part of the exhaust, worth changing out if you want to keep it sounding/looking stock. With the cat swaped out the stock system can see low 300rwkw no issues. But then if you plan on running a full system later, perhaps for now it may acidently 'hollow' itself (oops), and save the coin for a full system? Best to look ahead in these cases, no point spending up twice

The south roads aren't bad at the moment. Did a night run the other week with the PF crew. Something like meet a nerang. Then along nerang-murwillumbah rd, up the good bit of beachmont and back down. Then down to Murwillumbah. From there Burringbah range is the best bit of road your going to find at the moment. Then back up the highway if one desires. http://maps.google.com.au/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=nerang&daddr=beechmont+to:murwillumbah+to:burringbar+to:yatala&geocode=FSXFVP4d6MMjCSlrtlnXFBqRazHgpN7zWqMCBQ%3BFaXTUv4dMIghCSm5aofH59-QazEQoN7zWqMCBQ%3BFebDT_4dkaIkCSnh7KLLx--QazGgKkSQtAkGBQ%3BFbsmTv4ddMslCSkbYTJVEPGQazHA8kOQtAkGBA%3BFaHjWP4dxvohCSkfmmAbv2qRazFQn97zWqMCBQ&hl=en&mra=ls&sll=-28.259635,153.693237&sspn=0.512873,1.229095&ie=UTF8&ll=-27.970147,154.061279&spn=1.028512,2.458191&z=9 Otherwise Mt Lindsay boarder run is pretty good still also, was out there the other weekend. Either way you want a night run and late start to ensure no traffic or animals at dusk etc. How many runs does one get these days at the drags? Be curious what the LPG taxi can manage.

I'm in Brisbane so yeah I think I'll have to get it sussed at a suspension shop. It's still got extended warranty on it, which has been pretty good at covering most stuff. Except they 'set' the value/time to fix the quoted job so ones gotta be careful who you use etc and make sure they are ok using them (they pay quick as though, Swann). I can see them only paying part of bush/whatever but (wear & tear) etc. Cheers.

These are on my BF at the moment. I've not had it long enough (nor other tyres) to compare but they do aqua plane a bit, and one crappy roads can tram a little under brakes. (though this may just be the car/model) They don't seem too bad for grip. I'm needing to replace them soon and was actually keen for other/better options. Ku31's maybe? Maxxis MA Z1's ?

standard height. I tested it on the way home, doesn't happen in neutral, so its definately the way drivetrain/suspension is being loaded up by the engine. Not just breaks or a speed related thing

Any trans shop should be able to do it for you. The cost will depend on if you want genuine liquid gold put back in or something else. I rang around and The Box Stop at Underwood seemed reasonable, they use Nulon Full Syth ATF. I ended up just getting some and get a mate to do it at his workshop. It's not rocket science but there is a proceedure. There's a link/file on here somewhere. Also note from what I have gathered unless you ask for it (and it cost's $'s more) most will just change the fluid and pan etc (or replace with metal & filter if that's your choice). If you want a full flush ask as the few I rang said unless the fulid looks mank they don't bother. Might be a messy job doing it at home but possible. Do some googling, I found a thread on a BMW forum where a guy didn't one at home, had complete instructions etc etc.

certainly should be under warranty. Don't stuff about just take it to them and say fix it. I had the same ETC light on my BF coming up. Ended up being a connector a bit loose in the loom, code was showing throttle error also. Most would have just replaced it but then had the same issue. While my extended warranty didn't cover all of the cost, at least they did actually fault find and not just replace parts without results as many do.