Spoony

I'm a little more knowledged now. Originally the suspension mob installed 3x Superpro bushes, all the new 'comfort' (voided) type. I thought it was just getting 1x superpro comfort and 2x factory side bushes. Upon the first failure Superpro was down to their workshop in the hour with new bushes. However what they resupplied and said to fit were 1x same Centre bush but 2x solid side bushes. I've been told there are no side 'comfort' bushes available in country. (sounds to me like a pulled product due to issues maybe??) So now I've been told that these solid bushes will transmit more NVH though the car. I made the point that the first time I picked the car up the driveline 'felt' tighter than now even and was dead quiet. They did drive it and agree on the noises. It's pretty pronounced. Just running from R to D now gets a clunk. When I say clunk it's almost more of a audible knock (clicky almost) . It is apparent in any on off throttle, even in "D" driving very cruisey with normal up and down shifts that the ZF does one can hear and sometimes feel it. Ie come up to the lights it might shift down or whatever and you'll hear it. A taxi's got nothing on this. haha Under the car while loading the diff up in both directions I was amazed how much it moves. To the extent that the centre bush comes away from the outer hole either top or bottom depending on the load direction. They didn't seem worried about this but is this normal? I just can't see how a bush is allowed to move anywhere but within the bush itself, surely that will allow friction wear and possibly even road muck to get in? Also noticed while checking the diff backlash it seemed a tad much, but then it was realised both inner CV's have some play. Ie the dif has engaged and moved the splines on the CV"s not the axel. How much play do these normaly have? I thought CV's have basically none. What I'm wondering here is if the noise is from the CV's taking up. In which case I can only put it down to them being damaged from the prior stuffed bushes. The side bushes were apparently totally flogged, centre split, so who knows how much twist/whatever the diff could move under power, possibly putting these CV's at an angle/stress not within spec? The reason now I think it could be drive train noise is it can happen with minimal load, so the diff movement would be minimal. If the drivetrain was already like this however, it would have been present previously, not immediately appeared after the bush failures. Oh, too boot now I've now got diff whine in the cabin. Previously dead quiet (I've been in the back of the car as a passenger on long highway trips). In short, the first time I picked the car up it was dead quiet, no whine, no knocks or clunks in the driveline/diff/mountings. The are going to get back to me on what to do, but in my opinion it should be fixed back to the same. I don't think I'm being unreasonble?. Given your experiences, keen to hear your opinion senna. Oh and the diff is 'located' in the right spot and visually can not be seen to hit anywhere.

I'm guessing it's something installed wrong, going back to them this arvo as its pretty bad. Just hope hasn't stuffed something else (ie diff, drive shaft bearing, coupler rubber etc?).

I recently had 3x new diff bushes, all Superpro with the 'comfort' centre bush. In less than 1000kms I started noticing some nasty clunking, vibration and shudder (ie like a tailshaft inbalance) through the car. Turns out a faulty centre bush allowed the inner sleeve to seperate from the bush, inturn allowing the centre to flog out, destroying the other bushes and allowing the diff to shift backwards. It's since been replaced however there is still on/off/engage rear end noise and to some degree clunk, but it's different now. It sounds almost more like the diff it self (backlash). I also now notice some diff whine, where previously this diff was dead quiet. Obviously I'm going back to the shop again, but I'm curious as to weather having the diff shift out of place/allignment and being driven under power (this is when I first started noticing the oddity) could have damaged the diff or maybe some other components of the driveline?

Figured I'd update this. After searching a few forums I found the "HIM" module relates to the A/C & Climate control system. (Who the hell would know that just looking at the fuse lists? derrrr fraud). Anyways the fuse that does the HIM and reverse lights was blown. Replace with another 15amp and it went again, 20amp and it seems ok. Odd. I did have a trailer hooked up at the time, but there is seperate fuse for 'trailer' so dunno but maybe it did something.

The Climate control in my BFii XR6 T has seemingly died. The ICC comes up, radio etc works fine but for the A/C (climate) part only the 'recirc' symbol comes up an flashes 6 times, where on the 6th flash it becomes solid. The rest of that section on the ICC is blank. It was working fine today, the car was parked for a period, radio left on, upon restart it was like it is now. If I listen I can hear what seems to be a stepper/electric motor activating, pausing briefly and activating for a period again. Would I be right in guessing the symbol indicates something wrong with the fresh/recirc door/motor/section? Haven't had much luck searching on the issue. Cheers.

^pfft, go hold up a servo or something

Economy (cost based) calculated vs using 98RON 1.50/l on LPG 0.58/l with 290rwkw Highway 4.3l/100km City/Short stop/start trips 7l/100km Poor saps driving expensive and slow Corollas etc. haha

Edit - Wrong thread sorry.

Would've been in, got plans booked & paid for though. Someone needs to organise a night mountain run or something now I've got new Billy's fitted to the taxi.

The VE HSV with HARROP plates went ok, but was a big blower on it, with decent boost, also 6.8L Got my mates 1UZ lux but most of it was initial response from the speed they went. Purple Warlock one was twin turbo 6+ L, the black ute was also turbo 6L. Did expect more from alot of them given their capacity + custom $$$$ forced induction. There was SFA XR6T's out there though vs the Chev badge brigade! lol. BF XR6T, on LPG + 10PSI Tune & stage one cooler. Mate's driving it was his entry. You can't hear the thing at all (stock exhaust), it hardely seems like a race vs that blue XR6T as there is no sound lol. Was so pieceful vs so many rediculously loud sh*t tins that didn't go anywhere. Must be getting old. There's some more good vids of mates 1UZ Hilux too on his channel http://www.youtube.com/user/millsi1978#p/u

Wasn't a bad weekend, did a entry+pit pass sticker swap on sunday when mate shat a belt in his 1uZ V8 turbo lux. V8 commy/chevy/hsv/whatever drivers get really upset when a 6cyl coon on LPG chops them with 4 people in the car. haha.

Mines out of factory warranty, still has underwritten extended on it, but I dunno how one would go about making a ZF claim on it. Fighting a loosing battle much? haha

Yeah it's not tune related, I've flash factory tune back and it's still there. I personally think some of the odd shifting behaviour one gets with these boxes is electronic and possibly lots to do with their 'smarts' (or lack of), ie learning etc, being wrong in some cases. Based off driving/shifting behaviour I don't think reflashing a tune clears what is in the ZF computer either (which makes sense given they (until just this month) can't 'tune' the ZF as such). I'd be keen to find a way where one can clear its memory back to default and go from there but can't seem to find any mention of how. Perhaps only ZF tech or whatever can do this.

Mine also does the exact same thing. Roll off the throttle and let it shift, smooth. Keep just a little bit of load and 'thud'. Seems worse when it's cold and the earlier in the rpm it shifts. Sounds like it's not an isolated occourance though. My diff bush is just starting to shag which may be highlighting the issue but I pretty certain it's not the cause.

with 610rwkw you'll definately be 'testing' out any fluid you choose to use. haha

Driving to Wodonga, then the snow, then home from Brizzy on friday, so will have a good 3000kms + on it already. So far seems ok.

nah, his a 'gunna', so will eventually but f*ck knows when haha.

Another update. Flashed the updated tune with standard torque tag settings. It shifts quite different on power, from before. Best way to describe is previously felt like flat shifting a manual car, now it shifts like one would in a manual if they wanted the gbox to last more than a few weeks haha. It's hard to test repeatedly and keep ones licence (as 3-4th shift is fairly fast speed), but the box seems OK now, ie doesn't seem to slip on shift. Perhaps car is just making to much torque to 'flatshift' at high speed/load. Maybe it's been slipping slightly for a while and gotten worse (burnt out the clutch packs a bit? glazed? something? going harder in the old weather?, who knows. I'd say the car would be marginally slower but seeing/feeling the difference first hand at how brutal changing the torque tags can be on the box vs the factory settings in the part of a tune, for longevity I'd recommend one to question about their tune having this section of the tune left standard. 1600Dave, haha 120k was when I got my 07 BFii............ & started tinkering too. 140k on it now.

I got 20L flushed through using a flush machine on Monday. The box drives OK, shifts fine and smooth under normal driving or faster driving. I've given it a a few days of normal driving now and my 3-4th gear issue slipping still persists. I did think it was a long shot as I'm not convinced the issue was caused by fluid. Especially when I have box shops saying they use the Nulon stuff in many ZF's, still do and have no issue. "In gear" 4th there is no issue now matter how I load it, its only the shift which feels totally different to all other gears (including 4th to 5th or 5th 6th on power). It's almost like the action of engagment is too weak, perhaps some sort of valve issue etc. Mick from pitlane has sent me a modified tune with the torque tags back to standard to hopefully make the shifting less harsh on the box, loaded it this morning so will see if it helps. I don't think so. Might be up for a new 4th gear clutch pack or whatever. hmmm. Anyways my brother is looking at flushing his 70,000km BF F6 with the Gulf Western product also, this has no issues so will give a better base to work from.

Interesting, mine seems ok all but 3rd to 4th. It is also a bit thudy on cruisey 5th to 6th low rpm shifts

See my post here $160 + gst (or cash) for 20L, local workshop with a flush machine is flushing it through on monday for $110-$120.

Figured I'd update this thread, now and again after it's been flushed. $160 cash, 20L which is pretty good for full syth DX VI grade! I'm pretty sure Gulf are quite confident in their fluid in the Falcoon ZF6 box based on the pic I've attached lol. The supplier also showed me a letter Gulf has sent out to distributors identifying its suitablity in these boxes. Possibly they've seen a market oportunity and jumped at it with right product, where other manufactures are stuck with their same fluids from the 90's? lol

Stock car? or How much power? Perhaps this makes the difference, Ie I don't think I'd know any better if my car was stock power, it wouldn't be enough to cause the flare/slip.

Picking it up this arvo from http://www.truelocal.com.au/business/c-m-and-t-quality-products/arundel, he was on the road when I rang but around $150 or so for 20L. I thought wasn't bad at all. The other contact Gulf Western gave me was Autobarn, at the bargin price of $370. bwahahah, I so hate Autobarn Just email Gulf, Andrew's really helpful, he'll give you some local options to try.

Ninja, so what do you have in yours atm? Your saying ran SIN ATF and had flare issues (on shift? 3-4th??) and then flushed it out with replacement and all came good? Genuine $$$ stuff? Transmax Z or SynTran Gulf western? Sounds like you've had what I've got, and a fluid change can possibly be the fix..........so hoping. haha