Spoony

That's exactly it though. Why have something and not use it! Same argument with my brother yesterday, recently got a brand new GLXR Triton but because putting 'km's' on it bought an AUIII Egas ute to drive around in haha. I told him he should setup a live video feed from his garage so he can enjoy watching it in the garage were ever he is lol. Ironically though the old Falcon ute would be better to drive anyways.........so perhaps it makes sense lol.

My BFii XR6T just clicked over the big number this morning. 12.2 @116mph with 307rwkw (dyno dynamics) while on LPG for 1/2 it's life, original everything (well bar shocks and diff and 1 or two other bushes). Not bad I don't think.

I did actually wonder about this and fuel usage too. 92 is the 'stock' after market replacement option, there was only an 82 at Supercheap when I was there but perhaps 88 or whatever is a better option. hmmmmmm.

Turns out the original thermostat wasn't closing up fully under its own spring. Interestingly it also had an additional hole as some others have found. The rubber seal was pretty distorted with some calcium build up, its only 07 but perhaps 200,000kms it's excusable? Went with an 82 hiflow. Hopefully quicker warm up and cooler loaded temps

It seemed a bit low. Wondering if the coolant change just trigged a dodgy thermostat that now doesn't close 100%. Will look at a new one. Hopefully get quicker warm up temp too

What's the normal actual temp for these on a cool/cold night highway running. I recently changed coolant to a non glyco type (don't need anti-freeze in QLD) for better contact wetting on the passage walls, which has helped but perhaps too much. 10deg last night 100km/hr and it was just under 1/4 on the gauge (BFii). A far as I know it's the stock thermostat. Using ODBII coolant temps in these situations now can only high 60deg'sC which seems to low? Thoughts? Perhaps thermostat isnt' closing properly or has the extra hole as mentioned in some stockers, with the different coolant it's too good at high speed no load?

Nice!!! Mines about the crack that too. 07 BFii ZF. 1/2 it's life with tune, cooler, LPG, 10psi and 290rwkw, plenty of towing, skidpan days, drag days, mountain runs. Drives the same as 100,000kms ago, identical 500ml of oil use over 10,000km as stock, noise, smoothness and turbo spool down time/noise identical etc. Given they run relatively low boost on a low comp engine with a decent sized not over stressed turbo, with good servicing I can't see why the turbo models life would be much less than the non turbos. I'm keen to see just how many kms they do handle still running mint.

My BFii's got a a tune and minor mods (done years ago). Since being tuned I've noticed that the cruise doesn't work as well as it use to standard. For example it seems to only apply the slightest of throttle openings (struggles to hold speed up anything but minor hills) and kicks the gear box down gears more than it should. Ie a you'll be in 6th at 105 and it may kick down 2 hills up hill that doesn't need it it yet still struggle to hold speed. I've noticed usinge ODBII connector to my phone that the throttle position read by this minimum of around 15% even when closed. I don't know if this is some kind of tuning trick but what I think is happening is the 'cruise' things that it has applied more throttle than it actually has (if it's using the reading). Which would explain the odd behavior. It's more of an annoyance thing but figured someone might have experienced similar or have an idea.

Depends on the condition of what's already there. I just replaced my rear D's and link pins bushes/grommet things with Nolathane kits. It's noticeable but the link pin bushes/grommets were pretty trashed. Would be minor new vs new I'd say but I figured why not go better if replacing anyways. Fixed up some suspension knocks to boot!

Bwahahahaha! CNJ is just down from my work, should stop in afterwork for a sh!t stir haha. Sounds like his a bit upset it takes a modded STi to come close to a stock XR. Really a stock XT Falcon is close to a WRX and a Stock XR6T is faster than an STi.

1-2 hours would be very quick, I'd say unlikely, but then again doing something multiple times and having customised tools for the specific job makes a huge difference than doing it the first time blind with hickups. I'd say next time I could maybe do it 3 hours or so perhaps. As for 'labour charges' allow for the mechanic to service 3 other cars inbetween breaks on yours etc. I'm guessing $500 + your mounts based on my experience.

We'll I worked it out on my own but will offer some tips to others looking to undertake this task. Firstly the Turbo vs Non Turbo Mounts (as a few others have said) appear to be the same bar straps. My guess is a 3rd part makes the mounts, Fraud put some plastic clips and shoe lace on it and 2.5x the price thankyou very much. The numbers design, feel and weight are identical otherwise. Given the car is riddled with Mackay hoses and components, my guess is they are the Mackay mounts with a Ford logo. So you can reuse your straps, but just check their condition first (some have made their own). It really only matters on the passenger mount though, as torque loading pulls at this one and compresses the engine one. The passenger mount in my was still in pretty decent shape, the drivers pretty ratty, squished and perished heaps at the top. The Job: We'll it sux!!! The passenger mount isn't too hard but drivers is a pain. A few hints. Pre-soak all bolts with WD or similar using a flex hose to get in there If you don't have a hoist I'd recommend using ramps over stands. The amount the car lifts jacking the engine is very surprising and I'm not sure how stable the car would be on stands at this point. Remove all intercooler hoses. Remove all turbo/manifold, steering heat shields and brackets The Passenger mount heat shield has a barbed clip holding it down. It's a *beep* to get too but working with a short flat blade from under the car you can get it to rotate then once loose and lubed off with your fingers (you'll swear heaps but). You'll also deform and mess this up a little bit getting it out. To get the nut undone under this you'll need a short 18mm or 19mm socket. Don't as me which, each side of mine had a different type of nut and size. (go Fraud lol). But a normal length the engine bay will get in the way. You could cut one down I guess. It's likely super tight, I had to do some levering off the crossmember to get it going. I'd undo the bottom nut but leave the bolt in. For me the drivers mount top shaft got stuck in the engine bracket, took hours of up and down to get it to come out. Perhaps jacking first with the bottom still attached 'may' help. I ended up having both mounts undone at once in the end. Passenger came free and out pretty easy. It's tricky to get to the top bolt still, again short spanner unless you have long extensions and uni joint(s) where it can be done from the top. The engine has to come up heaps, so chock you jack up plenty so there is lots of lift. I ran out of lift with no engine mounts and did a shoddy scissor jack chock re-jig of the hydralic jack to get it up higher. On the sump with timber just in front of the crossmember seems fine. I would say both mounts its at least 5-6 hour job on the floor, took me another 2 hours due to getting stuck on a few bits. I didn't take the turbo out. It would make getting that top nut a bit easier, but I think it would add time to the job in the end. New mounts are way better, so smooth on idle now, so very satisfied with the result. I'm going to look at trying to stuff another later of heat shielding in above the factory stuff as looking at left vs right the turbo heat I think cuts it's life in half. 194,000kms (07) in mine, I think without the heat the mounts would do 350,000.

Engine vibes are getting annoying, with near 200k on them newbies are going in this weekend (I hope) Turbo side looks like a right *beep*. Any tips? I've read no need to remove turbo, just jack up the engine. Is this with both mounts undone or one at a time? I looks like the bottom mount bracket has to come out.with the mount? Swapped out of the car then back in? To get all this out seems the engine will have to go up pretty high. Issues here? Anything else I should know?

Just stumbled on this thread. While I'll try some of the PID info within it, I can get trans temp to display on my BF. However I'm pretty certain it is just a different reading for coolant tempt that is being seen. It follows the coolant temp far to closely to be anything else (usually with in a degree or few). I've even tried intentionally riding the stall heaps to heat the box up and it's the same. My box has and external trans cooler so it should warm up exactly the same as the coolant, I would assume?

I posted this on fordforums too, but figured might get some more turbo related hits here I've got a 07 BFii XR6T with 191,000km on it now. Mild tune/tweaks (290rwkw). It's slowly been developing some vibration at idle when in gear. It's fairly minor warm but quite noticeable when cold and slowly getting worse. My guess is it's the engine mounts perhaps? Anyone agree? Looking into this from Fraud $320 is the cost for a single XR6T mount, where as a normal BF mount is $130 or abouts. That's a massive difference!. From what I've researched the only difference seems to be some straps that run over and around the mount. Surely can be made by ones self (coated wire?) or re using the original ones? Other options are Transgold or Mackay mounts, $40-$54 here. Mackay lists non turbo only, Transgold the same for both. Kelpro (@repco) do non turbo for $125 and turbo for $146, however their turbo ones have no straps and appear identical. I rang Motospecs and they couldn't tell me the difference. (could just be 'scam' the turbo owner?). I'm not paying $320 for genuine, it's a Falcon not some euro spec machine FFS! lol. Not sure if I should go Genuine atmo and put my straps on it, or just try the Mackay mounts (cheap option) with the straps. Or if the Kelpro Turbo ones are actually beefed up (non visually), getting them and adding the factorys straps could be the ultimate? Any experiences?

Agree with FG50T. Mine does it too. With new bushes, not that old donut etc. It's just how they are. One thing I did notice is gearbox fuild level I think makes a fair bit of difference to things like this. It wont fully go away but it's certainly much better with the right level. I've found this with a few ZF quirks

ahhhhhh yes the old BWCP. How amazing more dangerous driving and cars have become in only a few years........ please save us all our fearless rulers!

I've got a question on launching and the torque limiting protection thingy in the ZF's? (ECU maybe?) on BF's? Cars very mild LPG powered taxi with 10psi tune and there was plenty of grip at willowbank on Saturday so didn't have traction issues. But I did have laggy take of issues. I didn't seem to mater if I hardly stalled it up, or stalled it up lots it would just sort of be all fluffy for the first 1/2 sec then rocket it off. It had boost etc but I wondered if it was some kind of electronic limiting? I've read about it but never fully understood it. All the 'safety' torque tag setting thingys have been left on in this tune. Best 60 for was 1.994 or something. Time was 12.3 @ 115mph, which I can't complain about. I can't help but think if could do a 1.7 60ft a flat 12 could be possible.

12.3 @ 115mph 290rwkw. LPG + 10PSI tune.

Only if you've got injector and fuel pump headroom to spare. Which may not be the case if injectors an pump are at the higher end of their output on 98. 4k gas system with mods will pay for it self over time. Do you see the difference? Both are an outlay, one you get nothing back but satisfaction and happyness in the pants when you put the boot in, the other will pay for itself and then save you 50% in fuelling from then on. Example, while my car is very mild and only about 290rwkw's, I could have achieved this + supporting mods with no money in the bank and with the KM's I drive no additional outlay per week. How; I could have got a personal loan (didn't have to though), to cover the LPG + tuning and few other mods, this additional cost against the 50% fuel savings would have broken even to driving the stock car around on petrol. So for no cost one gets more power, and in 2 years 50% fuel costs. For some it's not going to matter, they just don't do the KM's to justify it.

07 BFii 172,000km. Am curious to see what KM's people will start getting out of these. Having had numerous older turbo cars (4cyl) running more boost etc pushing 300,000km + I expect 400,000 out of the T engines if serviced regularly

LOL only 10PSI. But yeah on a duel tune no issues switching. That graph show dedicated tunes, so switching from petrol to gas is no issue (gas higher octane) the other way on dedicated gas tune = pinging same as E85 to 98 switch would do on an E85 tune.

haha yeah super thread jack! Yeah I thought that to re the tune but I've flash it back to stock before and still no check engine light. Ratter would be able to confirm if something else is disabled outside the tune that would effect this as I'm not sure.

Not 100% sure, but I'm guessing you're being smart? Any car that runs 15psi and is tuned for 10psi is going to lunch something irrelevant of the fuel!

http://www.fordmods.com/ford-lpg-hydrogen-hho-cng-conversions-f44/bf-xt-with-orbital-liquid-injection-t88925.html seem to have a pump and return line. Not saying the EcoLPI system is exactly the same as I know there was specific development for it. It may well run a specific pump, but then again probably not as it's not needed supply was for an atmo Falcon