Spoony

While I don't have a cop chip I have done the following to BFii Bilstein Shocks (near 100k on them now and going good still, these along are a Big improvement on ride and handling) More recently basically every single bush with Superpro and King springs close to stanard xr height springs , HD rears vs normal (340lb) and fronts to using the V8 ones (540lb). Again, big improvement. Why FPVs don't run a similar setup stock is beyond me. NVH is near identical bar a tad more road noise on coarse chip made up by how sold it feels vs stock slop. Ride now is firmer but certainly not harsh. Control even over sh*t roads at speed is 11ty better Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Fortunately I haven't. Though that sound like the same thing I was having when it first presented. I'm pretty sure it's basically the ACC contacts on that rotary type switch coming out of contact and effectively turning ACC off on the car same as turning the key. The electronic part that starts/runs the car is still working so the car runs. My guess is maybe you're is not fully assembled together tight or maybe the contact plate or something is a bit bent?

Yes they are tricky. I forgot to mention but blew the same fuse on mine too!

So the back contact plate (Black plastic with ignition wires off it) popped out the back of the switch/barrel. The car is a 07 BFii. I've got all the bits it seems, white plastic bit with the spring, the two small ball bearings, the copper turn/connect/contact plate. Looks to me like the outside simply wasn't tapped over enough on assembly. The thing is how the hell does one get all this back in? The main issue is keeping the ball bearings in place while putting the rest together. Suggestions/special techniques? Cheers.

nelsonian101 has some good points. If you want, you'll get the taxi to turn like a a setup evo. But then there's a compromise in ride etc, just like in an Evo. Sure stock for stock the Evo is certainly a more capable bit of kit in the corners, but that comes with the above compromise too. You can get the taxi's to corner pretty well without spending a mint. Heck even with only Bilstiens in my BFii I've done heaps of group mountain runs with forum mates in EVO's and STi's and it's a non issue, often they get me to lead too and are happy with the pace. Sure if one wants to be a full hero I'm gonna run out of brakes/whatever trying to keep up and have no chance, but a reasonable fun pace, that isnt' dangerous it's not too bad. Only last friday night on nebo/glorious after totally kitting the car with superpro bushes and a 520/340 spring combo had a play with a new Megane RS265 4x people in the taxi, 1 in the Renault, he was leading, kept on him for near 10min, brakes being the major concern after a while so buttoned off for safety. Corner speed was a non issue. I have no doubt, jumping car to car some of these more capable vehicles feel quite a bit sharper, but on the streets in the real world the differences are not quite a huge unless being silly. I usually find people in Evos, STi's/similar etc are quite surprised a taxi barge can punt along with them. I put that down to years of internet boat banter, it's everywhere. One only has to look at some of the laptimes in various (mainly stock I think) cars to see and F6 for example holds it's own pretty well against many others on a track with a good driver. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Arff-ZXmabAZdEFEWHRXWU1BbW9VZVF1MFZQNnlHS1E#gid=0 As for the OP's quest, comes down to personal choice balanced with intended use etc. Personally I think spending a bit on a taxi getting it to handle better still retains 90% of ride and usablity so is the best value option + RWD is more fun (skid pan days etc). Even factoring a bit more cost for a brake upgrade kit is well worth it and has most areas covered for general use. If you plan on tracking competitively then might be a different story, but then again you could go further on the taxi like Nelson (still not hitting evo costs probably?) and have that covered too. All while having better straight line performance vs cost vs reliability. Finally, It's Australian!!! Factors a bit for me.

A BF with 10psi tune on LPG can take on a new GTS . Well OK a New LSA Camaro but the the same thing effectively. 430kw my arse. This! haha And http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0fqU8X4Atc Which makes sense, given how I've seen an LSA Camaro on ET streets go vs my car on $125 Achillies (Willowbank). 430kw at the engine my arse Holden/GM

Here's a spreadsheet I did up comparing costs. As you can see prices when added up vary a fair bit. I found OziSpares online store to be the cheapest online, cheaper than ebay. But Fulcrum was cheapest. However for the front components which I bought from Fulcrum also were quite similar price to Ebay/others etc. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AhoW6D1b4eGDdFlmWkhyanRJNEZ2cVYwUUNUV0JvZ3c#gid=0 From what I can see on the invoicing, they give you a reasonably better price on their parts than you'll get elsewhere when they are doing the job also. Based on that spreadsheet vs say Ebay costings labour to do the complete rear end effectively was like $360 given the parts savings.

Figured I'd update this thread for anyone searching and looking to do similar work to the car. The entire car now has superpro as every bush bar shock bushes. I did the front end as above, tip, pull any non shelled SuperPro bushes through from the centre with a puller/rod. Trying to use a press is just silly (yes we were silly) The rear of the car was done by Fulcrum During the front job I found one of the front lower control arm SuperPro's done sometime ago had developed a crack. Fulcrum replaced both while doing the rear under warranty. They also noticed their comfort side/front diff bushes done a while ago also by them were looking a bit 'used', so replaced both of them under warranty. They even replaced Noalthanes flogging out link pin bushes (done by me not that long ago) under warranty with their stuff. I must say, the level of cover Fulcrum offers on their SuperPro stuff is very good. Piece of mind knowing they'll just fix anything of theirs that has as long as you have the car. I end up also putting in new springs, only for handling and load carrying, didn't want to go lower as I already smash the bottom enough haha. King Spings KFFL-57SP/520lb Upfront and KFRL-68HD/340lb at the rear. Apparently stock is around 390 and 220lb. So no the car has SuperPro everything, Bilstiens and Heavier spec King Springs. While obviously this combo is not a cheap thing to do, especially at once, I can extremely recommend it. How the hell FPV never setup their cars with something similar is beyond me. The ride through the burbs would be better than stock. Yes it is a bit 'firmer' but is more of feeling controlled type firm than in anyway harsh. This added control actually inturn makes the ride better the harder you push the car, and applies to the crappier the road gets. With 4x people in the car took if for a brrrt over Nebo/Glorious last night which I'd done many times. Much grinning was had! Tyres are only 235/40/18 Achillies ATR sport 2 at $125 a corner, so nothing special, do highly recommend them over many far pricier options though. Having some car up my jumper at the start (always think, doh cops), Slowed until they passed. Turns out to be a new Renault Megane RS and his onto it. I'm sure he was a little confused that one of the Aussie boats only good for a straight line managed to keep onto him while his cutting corners left and right, so certainly pushing a bit. As for NVH. There is a little bit (not too much) of increased road noise on corse roads and that it. Other than than there is no more vibration, and the car actually rides smoother. A1+ would highly recommend. Now.........to actually get some brake that work $$$$$ :(

True, didn't even think of that! I think (from reading experiences through out the forum) if anything the rear may end up a little higher. Not the best for looks but more practical at least.

Bit the credit card after reading 11ty threads on here about heavier springs and still maintaining a decent ride with bilstiens. Along with all the new SP bushes getting king spring low KFFL-57P/ 520lb up front and low KFRL-68/HD 340lb HD rears. Low being standard xr height. In Various threads using super low on the rear to level the sills (factory they aren't) , but currently mine is I assume due to the gas system. Hopefully it's close go that with the above. Canned also getting air bags as the spring rate increase is substantial. Loaded now I'm only flush with the rear guards so maybe drops 40mm or so. With the new springs expecting maybe half that which is livable.

EDIT: The Bilstiens have about 70,000kms on them, so will probably give them an overhaul in the next 40,000km (year or so) and do all the springs then. Costs are just getting to much at the moment with other $$ needs, bloody cars.

cheers for the quick reply. Just talked to Fulcrum (feels like I'm a share investor there lol) , they have a set of the bags in the warehouse so will fit the up also. He said that as you still have to run 6psi of pressure to keep them inflated/inshape so have a slight spring rate increase effect. If I was going to go the springs I'd probably go all-round. Which I should have done on the weekend when the front was pulled apart. This whole suspension 'upgrading' is pricey enough and I keep adding to it haha, so will leave the stock springs for now. The front end feels much nicer with the super pro through it (and it already had SP lower front bushes done, the rest stock but in good nick), so no doubt the back which is flogged out will really transform it. That with the bilstiens should be good enough with the stock springs still I hope. I do a fair bit of distance/crappy road drivings so heavier springs would probably make it less comfortable for my back perhaps?

This thread sparked my interested (BFii XR6T on LPi (for 2.5 years now)). While the LPG system/tank it self made no difference (noticeable) to ride height I also drive loaded up and tow a bit, so often drag the bottom over things. Have you done the springs/airbags yet? Curious to hear your throughts I was thinking about just putting in the airbags and leaving the stock springs or do the king springs offer handling improvement too senna? I certainly don't want to go any lower than stock, looking at the King Spring Cattledog though there is not stock hight XR6 BFii springs for the front available but :( As of tomorrow the car will have Superpro bushes through the entire suspension, already has Bilstiens.

I did the front myself yesterday. Upper control arms, both ball joints, lower control arms, swaybar (all Superpro). Left the original shockbush (still seemed fine). To be honest all of the factory bushes seemed pretty good to me, 205,000 certainly far from easy km's too. The front lower control arm were replaced a little while ago with superpro, ironically the front left one had cracked/split completely! This should be sorted under warranty, Fuclrum are doing the rear end completely so they can do it at the same time. Wasn't that bad of a job (the front), except for knowing how to work with the Superpro bushes. Wasted lots of time with a few (ie upper control arm for example) until made up a make shift puller using some rod to get em though. Thursday Fulcrum are doing all of the back ones bar the shock bushes. Interesting you comment re the inner toe arms. Is the reason for NVH? Or something else? While I haven't driven on corse roads NVH seems fine with there stuff all up front, as I think someone else mentioned in a thread may be a very marginal increase in road noise (but it could just be more paying attention). It is however smoother and tighter, back feels really bad now haha. Given the above I would only think the rear using their stuff should still be ok with NVH.

Just stumbled on this thread. Very nice setup! Eating everyone in the Youtube videos it seems. Do you have to clean Subbies out of the airbox before going home? haha Watching Eastern Creek, sorry SMP now, love that track, only got to do it once on the bike. 1:49 on the GP would be decent in a taxi, from memory managed a high 1:45 on a late model thou. I don't even think that extended track section existed back then, looks good. Still it's no Queensland Raceway boy are we lucky up this way hahaha /facepalm

Following on from above, I got priced on getting the rear completely done (super pro). So lower and upper rear control arm bushes (inner and outer), toe control arm inner and outer and control blades. $1650 with labour and alignment. (sound fair?) Given this needs the rear dropped to do the above, It's a bit much in my little garage but I think I'll do the front myself to save some coin, rear lower control arm (fronts already done), upper control arm and both ball joints $260 in parts only. I figure doing all this should made it drive and feel really good handling wise, but I'm a bit concerned about NVH . Experience with the above being all Superpro ?

The cause, right rear outer toe arm bush is shot, one can move the wheel around by hand haha. As per my other thread it needs quite a few bushes done.

So the complete ebay control arms are new but made in China jobbies, so will avoid going that route. I know the outer bushes of the rear control arms are rose/hymm type and flog out easy, the inter ones are conventional piviot bushes yeah? Do they tend to not flog out? Considering leaving them if they don't, worry about them when diff bushes eventually go again or when I reco the shocks or something

Good info, sounds like complete control arms (ala ebay) and super-pro inserts for the control arms are the go and most cost effective. Jas, was that your reply on fordforums also (I'm guessing?). I didn't realise though that the cradle would have to be dropped to get the control arms out, that would be a bit of *beep* to do on the ground.

Yeah I wondered what the ebay arms would last like. If may local, probably from the same mobs that makes the factory ones? Otherwise if from China then max lotto? Better handling wouldn't be a bad thing, though with the bilsteins originally it wasn't bad I didn't think. I wouldn't think running superpro through it vs rubber would see huge improvement that the shocks did vs stock? I will cost up all the bushes and go from there though. Will harshness be an issue? I experienced solid side diff bushes once, ewwwwwwwww the didn't stay in long

Had similar thoughts. Will get very pricey and fast if I just give that to a shop to do. I had a quick search on ebay and found complete control arms/blades etc. I figure the bushes will still be rubber so not as durable as superpro, but in saying that the factory stuff has lasted this long (rubber). For example http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falcon-BA-BF-FG-Ford-Territory-Series-1-2-Rear-Upper-Rear-Lower-Control-Arm-/360731610773?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53fd478e95&_uhb=1 and http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-TERRITORY-FALCON-SEDAN-XR6-TURBO-XR8-BA-BF-FG-REAR-CONTROL-ARMS-SY-ARMS-HD-/281162357364?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4176951a74&_uhb=1 So for $480 and a bit of time the rear is done, no press needed just bolt in and out. While they look OK in the pics, are these sort of parts rubbish and a steer clear thing?

EDIT: Doh, sorry for the fail topic heading haha (engrish much) So my late 07 BFii XR6T with 205,000kms had a weird squirm and unsettling nature under power and on kick down. Fulcrum had a look at it form me (as I couldn't tell too much wrong on stands lying on my back). Right (outer tierod?) hymm joint is well flogged, can move the wheel around, so I'd say that is the cause of my unsettling feel + knocks and vibration. The other outer hymm joint/bushes left and right (there are 2 sets each side) are a bit average too with some knock transfered from the wheel when bumped. The front control blade big pushes are also on their way with cracks. Up front they noticed the lower ball joints also have a little play. So doing the above cost $650 or so in labour, so wondering how much of a *beep* it would be to do in the garage (mate has a reasonable press to use). Also wondering in either case if there are any other bits I should do at the same time? Most bushes are original still, not too bad I don't think for 205,000 pretty hard km's (sees heaps of crap roads, skid pan days etc). Replacements I know of since I got it (at about 100,000km) Shocks are now 70,000km old Bilstiens and still feel good at the moment. Diff bushes are super pro comfort (new design), still good Rear swaybar D bushes and link pins are Nolathane & farily new (link pin bush looks average already, though hmmm) Front lower control arm bushes are Superpro.

Yep checked this. Had the left rear hub nut come loose once ages ago and it felt weird. Scary one could move the whole wheel on the hub/suspension. Both are tight as now. The sensation was also apparent this weekends camp trip. Fully loaded up car, 3 dogs,2 people, boot epic load, trailer stacked to hilt + 2x dirt bikes. Almost feels like it lists back from front left to rear right. Could be a non obvious bush that's worn. Will have to get it up on a hoist or something I think.

They would have been fitted to help level the rear when loaded up and towing. It's something I've been considering for my XR6T instead of literally dragging the arse of it through the ground/rocks haha. Not 100% but I think they only need low pressure to keep shape when not being used to bear load. If you're going SSSL springs you'll probably have to remove them. They're probably the firestone ones, and they do have normal and lowered models so I'd say that they wont work properly with SSSL springs. They should be easy to remove, once deflated should fit out between the springs, but if the springs are coming out it's obviously a non issue anyways. If you do get rid of them and they are 100% working and in good nick still let us know as could be interested (they're not expensive new though mind you)

I've been noticing a slight weird behavior going on with my BFii XR6T Sedan. Car is fairly stock, mild tune/mods, LPG, 70,000km old Bilstiens, Front lower control arm bushes and rear sway bar bushes done, 200,000km total on it. Travelling on the freeway, then giving it stick, as the box shifts down and car starts to accelerate the rear seems to 'shift' or move slightly sideways. I'm pretty sure it's a recentish thing. Can't see any obvious issues or anything loose/warn, wondering what could possibly cause this?