Spoony

Got them on using a 36mm socket (one I use for hub nuts) reversed into the stop. Then after many sketch random slips managed to lever them on with a long tyre lever bar.

Hmmm the hot/boiling water idea seems to have zero effect on the Poly. :(

While the rest of the car has Superpro bushes and joints these ones are just PolyPro, same design/item as Nolathane/Whiteline etc. One end is quite open so it can only go one one way. http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=47344&sq=2056

Good idea, I actually had a light bulb moment of doing this laying in bed last night haha. Will give it a shot, cheers. Yeah pretty sure, was yours poly or rubber though? I'd imagine rubber would pop over easy.

I picked up some ebay poly rear bump stops. I've had no luck getting them to pop over the mounting lug/knob. So far I've tried greasing them up, trying to use a scissor jack between suspension arm and stop, no luck. I also tried putting using a large socket that locates in the stop but wide enough to no fall not the stop then jacking up that section of suspension. I got to a point where it looked scary/risky and stopped. Any other tips for young players? Cheers

Really lots of those things you listed earlier are general wear an tear on any vehicle. As for the above, 100% agree. The turbo oil feed is after the standard filter. There a plenty of turbo setups that don't have a special inline filter for the turbo. I remember reading somewhere, possibly hear-say though, that the small mesh filter was only a run in precaution that Garrett recommended, and that it could (should?) be removed later. I've run 170,000km (at 270,000km) without any inline filtered, still on original turbo, still same amount of play as at 100,000km and still spins down for just as long when turning it off. Interesting you needed a turbo at 250,000km. As they are generally very under stressed on this engines I would have expected the original still to be going now on yours. It makes one ponder if leaving that screen filter in caused premature failure?

I feel the driveline in them is genuinely impressive. 'touch wood' but despite the km's, respectful but spirited fun use at times, and the substantial increased power output for much of it's life, I haven't touch a single thing with the exception of finally needing to do the water pump at 260,000km. That's from crankshaft pulley to rear wheels.

Is this maybe the highest XR6T that gets a mention? I noticed Philtaxi commented with more but not sure if that's his taxi or an XR6T? Mines now on 260,000 odd kms, late 07 BFii. 320rwkw (DynoDynamics) on LPG and largely due to doing the suspension sometime ago (Bilstiens, all superpro bushes, 2 rate up king springs etc) it still drives better than it did when got it at 100,000kms, and a I feel better than newer FG XR6T's or G6ET's. Bar the brakes and engine response it's drive/ride/feel is more like the bosses new FGX XR8. Finally Ford got some reasonable suspension in these things stock. What caused your turbo to go at 250k? Mine still seems to feel the same as at 100,000km as far as noise, free spin and play goes. I did remove the turbo oil filter/clogger thingy at 100,000km so not sure if that's helped? It does seem that these things will steam on for many km's if serviced well. I change 10-40 nulon synth every 10,000km, I'd do it sooner if it was on Petrol, but LPG is better for oil and engine life. Part of me wants to sell it to move onto other things, another part wants to see just how many kms an Aussie built car that can run a low 12 at 116mph with probably about 500 engine hp can do.

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Cooling_Systems/Radiator_Stop_Leak/#.U7DmY_mSx8E I'm trying to find the thread/discussion on another forum with the Nulon rep who basically explained it a being good for weeps and assured it wouldn't cause blockages in a system that's already clean. I'd also consider using this stuff. Flush/change it out after so can't really get caught in the system. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/DynaGrip-Metallic-Seal-Tite-Radiator-Stop-Leak-250mL.aspx?pid=0468#Cross

Still hasn't moved a mm since then Nulon stuff, $12 or whatever it was a bottle. Coolant still looks green/same colour and clean.

It's a 230,000 km taxi motor though, bar the head they aren't exactly the latest design, not that much in any engine regarding head gaskets etc has changed though?

I'd tend to agree, if replacing the head studs to retention in the 'hope' that it works (chances??) might as well go the whole hog. After a bit of searching & reading I found a Nulon rep posting on a few forums about their seal-up product. Comments included assurances that it will not block or gunk up the cooling system if it's in a clean state already etc, and works for weeping head gaskets. It's been in there not long after the early posts now and haven't seen the level drop even after some spirited driving and a hard skid pan day. As gaz097 said, it's a fair bit of work, for what's almost just an annoyance. It seems for me it took many many months for the level to drop just millimeters . Hopefully the fix in a bottle does the trick for a while.

Cheers, not cheap but I guess includes all gaskets, head bolts etc. Seems it's a 'fault' with design though when happens across multiple cars? Is it turbo only in this spot or both? I do wonder when doing it what else would be good to do at the same time. The car is fairly mild, 10psi LPG tune with about 288-307rwkw (pick a dyno haha) . Has 226,000km on it. The front timing cover I think has a weep so figure one would do that at the same time, and maybe a crank seal? Anything else, water pump perhaps? Oil pump or non issue (I never limiter bounce it as peak power is like 4950 with the above tune). I was just considering using some of that CarGo Seal up, it's worked well I other cars through the years and doesn't seem to clog anything (as you don't leave it in) . After all it is just an external weep.

Aren't the headbolts Torque to Yield though? Ie shouldn't be reused/tensioned?

So seems my BFii T has an external weeping headgasket rear on exhaust side. A quick search and it appears this has happened to others. (Design fail?) It's not yet pouring or dripping but tensioning the exhaust manifold and turbo bolts I can see where it's weeping and wetness down the block. Have noticed coolent res dropping slowly too over time. Does this seemingly 'semi common' issue all of a sudden get worse? Ie don't drive it at all etc or more an annoyance? (Guessing the latter as I think its been like this for maybe a year haha) What's usual cost to do a Headgasket? Any tricks for young players to watch out for if doing it at home? I think the timing cover is also weeping oil so would be the time to do that also. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

jab, Only time I've had had such issues, which showed up by the gearbox not shifting past 3rd in 'auto' was due to the standard spare on the front left with the stock 245/40/18's! haha. Different diameter across axles can cause it, I think only on the front but not 100%. I've run different sizes front to rear with issue, and 235/40/18 vs 245/40/18 hasn't been an issue. The rolling height difference is almost just the tread wear new to old on a 245 anyways. Threeta, Wow $1000 for ATR2's, poor kiwi's. I paid $500 AUD a set a month ago. Haven't priced Invo's but I have no doubt they'd be at minimum double the price and for me not worth it given I need tyres near ever 6 months.

Like I said, ATR2's are definitely better! 235 or 245 isn't really going to be a noticeable thing, but the tyre model it self will be.

Yep. The 2s are far better in all regards. Noise, grip, wear etc. I run 235s instead of the stock 245s (18s BFiis) and still much better than 245,ATR 1s. They even have 245 in stock size now but $200 more a set, meh 235s will do. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Good ideas. Have messed with the brakes. Played with the retaining clips and also put some anti seize behind the pads, cleaned and greased up the slide pins etc, made zero difference. All suspension inc ball joints is completely new front and rear apart front sway bar link pins and tie rod ends (all apparently OK according to Fulcrum). I was thinking something 'moving' and clunking but wonder why it only happens after driving 7+ kms or so to start hearing it, then it gets worse over the next 5 kms. It really sounds to me like something is re positioning and going backwards and forwards on the spot using the brakes in either direction can achieve the same thing. What items would need 'use' or warm up to start doing something like this in the suspension/brakes. The sound can sort of move across the front of the car a bit too, ie it doesnt' sound 100% placed in the same spot but is definately 'inbound' of the wheels when heard from outside the car. At the moment stereo up is the fix haha (though have noticed I can still 'feel' it at times)

It's 100% in the front of the car, not the rear. It seems engine load makes no difference. Ie I can stall up against the brakes either way. It only occurs when rolling (even slowly) and the brake are applied a reasonable amount. When you then accelerate and move again it's reset and the noise will occur again. If you roll then brake a bit 'clunk', then keep decelerating (off the brakes) then brake again it wont always do it again until getting back on the throttle.

I've got an annoying 'clunk/knock' seemingly more from the centre of the car (front) on braking. Initial very light braking (so pads engaged) will not make it happen, it takes a tad more than that. It can be done forward and reverse. BFii XR6T It doesn't happen on initial driving, takes maybe 5-8kms to start hearing it. I did have a similar noise on corners mainly, turned out to be LHS engine mount wasn't 100% tight. That's fixed and thinking along the same lines I've ensure the RHS mount is FT. Both mounts are less than 30,000km and genuine. The car has most bushes new and super pro, only link pin front swaybars and tie rods are original. But as it spent a day a Fulcrum to find the other noise (LHS mount) every thing on the suspension has been checked and tightened 1000 times now. Just wondering what area/items would only cause a 'clunk' under brakes in either direction. I've check the brakes, 99% it's not there, I can hear the noise beside the car walking along it, like being in the car, it sounds deeper than out on the wheels. Something that need the car to be driven for a bit to 'appear'. I idled it for 30mins this morning, so the engine side of things was well warm, but still, it took a decent amount of driving to get it 'clunk', which to me says not engine mount etc. It's 100% solid and quiet over bumps and in turns. I've tried to use the hand brake (sucks on these cars) to replicate the weight shift and it seems clunk only happens with normal brakes. Most annoying as with everything fresh as (Superpro everything), the bilstiens etc the car rides and feels better than the bosses less than 1 year old G6E Turbo despite it being 07 and 215,000km, so this noise is really annoying. Cheers

Haven't used KU31's so can't compare sorry. ATR2' in the wet in my opinion are fine, grip better for cornering and braking the most of I've used in the wet, just have their limits under power sideways. It's a non issue for normal driving though, I have to provoke mine to get anything to happen. Maybe car setup/suspension is playing a part here? Masda, I do quite a few skidpan days so I guess it does phase me less, though with Stability Control who cares anyways haha. They are awesome on the skidpan though, as they are not overly hard to provoke into oversteer in the wet it's exactly what you want, from there they are super progressive making for max fun. My 'skid' rims currently have Goodyear F1GSD's on them, which I don't think seem to grip much better if at all in the dry than the ATR2's but in the wet they are better, not what one wants on a skid pan. Under power lateral grip is great, which makes them sh!t on the pan as one has to provoke them, then they snap and it's game over, not at all progressive or manageable in comparison. Will be getting some lindongchingwongnogpong crap to go on there for these days, the GSD's will finish life in a lot of smoke soon haha.

I find road condition is a huge difference in the wet, ie greasy sections or poor surface etc. But would agree sideways with ATR2's in the wet isn't hard to achieve but honestly I've found the same with heaps of tyres, yet these other tyres are well below the ATR2's in all other areas. Second set of ATR2's now (they last me about 25,000km with A-B, Mountain runs, Skid Pan days, the odd Anti-Campbell Newman protest etc ). At $125/tyre for 18's, I've found nothing close, even tyres at over twice the price I've found lacking.

Interesting your ATR 2 experiences. How power do you have? I haven't found them that bad in the wet. (300rwkw) They stop and corner well but yes, under power you got to be a bit careful, but it's not crazy, I've pushed the hills in the wet with them and still live. At the strip they grip 100% in my car, can't get any wheel spin, that's 235/40/18's and 12.2 @ 116mph. Better than the Z1's managed. In saying that they are still better in this regards to the ATR 1's (in every other aspect too, ie grip, noise, wear, wet etc) and to Toyo Proxies also. I've a number of tyres on and only Maxxis Z1's are much better in the wet for acceleration grip. Actually they're the best in wet I've used I think. If you can find them for a decent price, and wet is your priority, Z1's are decent, grip levels in the wet (non greasey) aren't far off the dry with them.

Great tyre, at that price a good choice. I've run Toyo Proxies, Maxxis Z1's, Achillies ATR Sports, Forceum Hexa's (nooooooisey), Achillies ATR Sports 2. The Z1's without a doubt are the best wet tyre out of them In the dry they compare with the Toyo's, Toyo's were crap in the wet. The ATR Sports 2 (2 being important) are definitely a worthy contender, I think they have more grip in the dry than any of the above, and would be second only to the Z1's in the wet.