unclewal

They sure are, I love mine, its my daily ride and it gets ridden rail hail or shine. The only downside is riding in the rain on the "slicks" it comes with is an interesting feeling.

So I havent been around here in a while since selling my FGT Ute and getting a 4x4, but I have recently upgraded by 2 wheels to this Thing is insane, I havent managed to find a road where I can ring it past 12K, But as the revs get higher it just keeps pulling, it doesnt plataeu its unreal. I ticked all the boxes on the order sheet, best bike I have ever owned.

Love the idea, will look good but will be expensive, but never let dollars get in the way of your aspirations. I have only ever built a twin turbo cressida or rather done an engine swap then done skids, but I have crewed for a race team and built and rebuilt motors between events and done engine swaps on cars. How much of the work will you be doing yourself? My Thoughts (Feel free to ignore them) What I guess needs to be considered is what you are wanting to do to give the outcome you want. If you purely just want the motor to be twin turbo'd then it can be done easily enough with custom manifolds and plumbing, but you will be forking out for 2x everything and have two heat sources under the bonet and space will always be a premium. In saying that anything can be done with enough time money and expertise. If you have a specific outcome, there may be a different approach to achieve it. 4+3=7 and so does 5+2=7 just different ways to get there, all I am saying is there might be a more effective way of achieving your outcome. How will you be using the car? Do you have a tuner in mind? Have you discussed this idea with a tuner to get their professional input ? Do you have a budget and if so can you afford to double it? Do you have a time scale when you would like it driving? Have you spoken to an engineer to make sure there will be zero issues with the Fuzz of Insurance? (A small side swipe from someone can add up to an expensive exercise) Just some things to think about before you get too deep into it. Good luck with the project, look forward to seeing progress.

Check injector length, my id's bolted straight in no spacers or anything required. Ba and bf will be full size not 3/4 like the fg and will require rail spacers.

yep +1 for better handling, got them both front and rear in my ute and its head and shoulders over the old shocks that were in it.

I just installed a set of plugs running .7 gap ,idle is good, easy startup and runs fine at full tilt on the loud pedal. But .8 is what the plugs were before I changed them.

mine is exactly the same, terrible when cold, but shift slowly when cold and it goes like butter when its warm. Swapped out to transmax Z at about 40,000 and absoultely no change. If I was keeping it long term I would swap it out to mainlube, but its going in the next month or so , so no real need.

castlehill performance are selling them now, they just posted on farcebook. No RRP listed though

valve springs, not sure what else but I know for a fact the valve springs are different

sweet, thanks !

is this something that could be updated if your tuna sent you an update of your tune. My cold starts are killing my battery and it sounds like busted ar$e cranking for 8-10 seconds on a 8 degree or below day, I think its only going to get worse and not good when its coming up to sell in the next month or so.

mine takes 6-10 seconds on a cold day, sometimes longer, depending. I always check that I have plenty of fuel pressure, but just takes its time. When warm instantly start. 98 starts instantly every time.

Found it and sorted it out, swapped the bottom of the fuel sender over with the one that was in the ute, presto 4 bar fuel pressure. Thanks for the help lads, moved house and all is well !

Any suggestions Mick or Kroozin as to how to rectify this, adding to this I have to move house tomorrow night/thursday and also need to attend work as some point tomorrow.

looks like you are right, dropped the return line, presto 15psi of fuel pressure. Now to take the tray back off remove the sender unit and figure out WTF is going on !

headed outside now to see what I can see

As I posted in my other thread http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/88089-fg-xr6t-ute-pump-go-bang/ I had a dead fuel pump so I bought a new fuel sender from a shop in melbourne with a walbro 255lph intank setup. Now I get home install it and now my fuel pressure is way way way up over 80PSI, so I figure I have an adjustable FPR I can just pull pressure out, ahh yeah my FPR wound all the way out only drops it to 80PSI, I turn the two surge pumps off and it still only drops to 78PSI, either I have a blocked return line (Highly unlikely) or there is something else afoot. Any suggestions??

gotta be the waste gate not being able to hold pressure, my gtx was hard to get under 18psi

new fuel pump sender should arrive on Tuesday then I can re-assemble it all.

Ghetto tub removal so I could get to the tank to remove one dead fuel pump. Incase you cant see, its suspended by tie down straps and one ratchet strap to the roof of my car port, I dont have a block and tackle so this had to do. Its also handy for changing bike tyres when you dont have a rear or front stand.

Took me ages to get the fuel module out, on the ute they have a retainer plate that is twisted onto the tank that holds the module in place, that needs to be twisted (insert hit with hammer and screwdriver). Also those damn fuel line retainer clips are an ass to remove. Anyways, pump is the problem, checked with 12V and the pump doesnt even make a squeak, ordered a whole new sender complete pack with Walbro pump pre-installed, should be here the day before I move house, so guess what I am doing that night, that's right installing the new fuel module. I will post photos of my ghetto setup to hold the tray up.

Also looking at other fuel pump options like DW in tank replacement pump (e85 compatible) http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/357709

As the thread title states I am 99.9% sure my in tank pump has given me the finger. I have 2 external 044's that started making a massive racket on the way home last night, when I got to my garage I popped the bonnet to see the fuel pressure flicking around like a cut snake from 20-60psi, where as normally it sits rock solid on 4bar. The external pumps were cavitating and make a terrible noise. I took out both external pump relays and turn the key on and off, no noise from the depths below the fuel tank. So I get to spend today taking the tray off and recovering the dead pump. My question to all is, where can I get a Walbro GSS340 and Universal mounting kit from without having to wait till next week that suits E85 (I run this 100% of the time). Main time killer is I am moving house on Wednesday and you guessed it this is my work horse for said house move. I can do all the work myself I just need to find the parts ASAP

400KW 98 tune I get down to 12-13L/100 on trips into the city, around 10 on the freeway long trips. E85 450KW tune I get around 16-18L/100. Havent had 98 in the car since the price went over 1.65/L

Whats the point in getting all new gear if you dont get a tune to support your new mods? I suspect you could get away with not tuning your new setup, but I dont think it would be advisable, but if you were a little way away from your tuner you could limp it to them if it was really important. What kit did you get ? More details might help in getting responses