gsd112

I wouldn't of apologised. And I would of cancelled and bought a VF ss Redline

My Brother in law uses RP 10w - 40 XPR in his Supercharged BMW 328 race car. He has used it since 120,000kms and it was changed to a full race car at 230,000kms when it was supercharged and it know has 278,000kms. It does the winton and wakefield 300s every year and also super sprints and track days with the BMW car club and it never misses a beat.

BA Joe

They ended up fine but it needed a whole 6 hrs to get it right.

My first tune had idle issues with 80lb Siemens and starting issues used to have to crank it for ten seconds he fixed that straight away and he spent a whole 6 hrs straight sorting out the idle issue.

dont know but it will. A mate put a 100 cell cat on his ba a few days before getting a tune and it was overboosting and going into limp mode. Got a tune and all good.

Go a siemens 300lph pump they are very quiet. And either a Plazmaman OEM replacement or Process west stage 1 intercooler.

I suppose find out who tuned it first, that might make up your mind. It is cheaper to buy already done but I prefer to do the mods myself. Always done it this way

personally I would go the 07. Its later and less klms.With the tuned one find out who did the tuning before purchasing. I prefer to buy stock then mod myself, then I know whats been done.

I did PW stage 1 intercooler, cat, injectors, valve springs, 2nd intake and got 280rwkw on 12 psi. He could of gone more but that is all I wanted.

sell it and buy a turbo that's the cheapest way.

As sixman has said go see selected tuners and speak to them about budget and what you want then go with the tuner you feel most comfortable with and use what parts he likes to tune with to ensure you get the best results.

Go see either Autotech or Cresent Motorsport. Ask your preferred tuner whats best to do.

stock BA had the usual lumpy idle after WOT then stopping. Had it checked by too tuners one on the road the other used his dyno. Got the valve springs fitted and it was all good no more issues. 12 months later I got a tune and as soon as he went to 14psi it would do it again. He was adamant that it was the valve springs got another tuner to check it and agreed spoke to atomic would of had to pull them out and put new ones in and then he was going to check them. Put in crow springs and presto no more issues didn't bother chasing it up didn't have the time.

Not in my car they werent!

Go Crow or Plazmaman. Had atomics in mine and had issues with them.

Guys, Had a weird rattle squeak in the front passenger side. They found front passenger strut mount bush. Where it sits up in the engine bay it is way off centre. The squeak and rattle had disappeared but this was flagged as a issue.

Had to go to Pedders, they checked the whole car over and believe it or not the noise had disappeared. Drove down to Pedders and it was creaking rattling the whole 9 yards. Went for a drive with the mechanic just to check and it was gone. Lhf strut mounting plate is a issue and the diff bush is not the best and the right rear tyre had a massive cut in it. Got the rear tyres replaced and the tyre guy said that the front left suspension had a bad noise. Drove straight back to Pedders and thankfully it was still there. So he is 99% sure its the strut mounting plate.

I will post up tomorrow what it is as its going to Sydney suspensions tomorrow at 8am. Sound like the front passenger side is going to disembark from the car, but only after driving for a while.

Its back this morning but 10x worse. Drove around for about 10 mins nothing then it gradually got worse know its knocking/rattling and banging and squeaking.You can feel it through the passenger floor. I was going to go to Autotech tomorrow but not going down the freeway with it like it is. Checked all wheel nuts and they are fine. Seems to be worse when braking. Will either see Pedders or the old Wholesale suspension shop. Its weird it was 2 months to the day that it last did it yesterday and about the exact same time.

Guys, I have had this happen twice in the last 2 months today being the second time. 2 months ago driving and a squeak popped up and was coming from the passenger side front somewhere got home and dropped wife off and went for a drive to visit a suspension shop but it was gone. Know today parked in the city all day wife and I jump in and bang immediately its back. We changed over and its definitely coming from front passenger side. Dropped wife off at her mums and drive home and its gone again. It doesn't do it over big bumps or sharp bumps or at highway speeds really slight bumps cause it. Thought maybe seat but it sounds like its coming from outside and we can move and wriggle and move the seat and no noise. I'm going to get a suspension place to go over the front passenger side and check the brakes as well. But its weird that it needs someone to be sitting in the passenger side( Me 80kgs and wife 65 kgs) and it been quiet for 2 months. I bet it wont do it for another 2 months. Its a high pitched squeak as well. Any ideas?

I have done 13000 know and the rears are about 2/3 gone but I am quite hard on them. The fronts are about are 1/3 gone. I will be putting the rears to the front tomorrow to get a bit more out of them. I will be changing to Nitto Motivos once these are gone.

I regularly change between 98 and 95 never had a issue with my 2010 g6et.

both under warranty so they had no idea but a ford tech said all up about 7grand but that's ford costings, it was a exchange transmission.

I know of 2 guys personally that have had a zf milkshake. Both the mechatronics were shot...