Tobey

Wouldnt be going to the 'experts' in canberra... Head down to pitlane?

FG.

What was your 60ft?

$1100 is pretty damn good for a 21YO. Have a look at coles insurance or just car they were cheap for me...

Go to a different dealer?

I'd sell my Mk1 for 23k...

I have KU31's on the front and NT05's on the rear. Bilsteins all round and new bushes. What is letting me down now is the terribly soft sidewalls on the KU31's, it has become VERY noticable and letting the car down a lot. Im looking at replacing them with the invos when these wear out. Do you find the sidewalls stiffer than the KU31's?

pull the solenoid off, then see if you can put it in reverse. It easy to remove.

At the same time? It comes with the bushes you need to replace on the actual sway bar. But there is heaps of other bushes, but they aren't any easier to replace with the sway bar off. To improve handling however, I would do the lower control arm bushes in a urethane bush (superpro), they are a soft hydraulic filled bush that are good for quietness, but not much else. It will make the car track better, and not 'wander' as much, it will also save the insides of your tyres under braking. If you like to keep road noise down and have some comfort left, leave the other front end bushings as rubber. The lower bushes are best done by a mechanic as they are a pain in the arse to do.

Take solenoid out, and make sure it works by hand. Can you engage reverse when the car isnt on?

I was actually going off your 11.2 on street tyres, it was a damn good effort, but I dont think street tyres are going to support a 10 with 400kw...

Have you tried the penrite MGO 70?

So is the TR6060 the same as the T56 Magnum?

Doubt you will get a 10, especially not on street tyres. ET streets maybe, but you will need a 'moly tailshaft, half shafts and an LSD otherwise you are going to break things.

Hero... Try adding something constructive.

If only there was something that would let you choose how sharp the shifts are, whenever you want AND you didnt have to pay for it... Ah wait, that's a manual

The manifold bolts as well as all of the turbo housing bolts and dump pipe bolts are prone to come loose, this should be done every service. The other thing is the turbo oil screen, do a search on it, but you can either replace it, or remove it all together if it hasnt already been done. I chucked mine out and havent had any issues... Otherwise, just keep the TB clean, give the boost solenoid a hit of WD40 every so often and make sure the piping is always tight. If you have just bought it, I would take it for a quick dyno run, just to make sure everything is ship shape and nothing dodgy has been done....

Usually yes, but it depends on if you have two original keys or not. If you do you can program yourself, if you dont then if the locksmith has the right machine he can simply duplicate your original key.

Did you try slowly pushing clutch in?

I removed the thin aluminium spacer when I put in a mal wood clutch... Also, they dont self bleed, but bleeding incorectly can cause lots of dramas, make sure you run through a fair bit of fluid, and make sure you are doing it right. Also try gradually pushing the clutch in slowly while putting pressure on the gearstick to move it into gear. if you have too much of a spacer, you could be pushing way too far and the fingers on the pressure plate actually pin the friction plate against the flywheel, therefore not letting you push the clutch in.