envi240

has simon given you a rough eta?? or is a when its finished its finished kind of thing??

Hi all, I tried to search this but could not find much that was up to date!! is there a T running quicker then a 12.3 the reason I ask is there are some Ts out there running big power in a manual but we are all finding it hard to get power down!! any info or links would be great!!

I disagree I don`t think you will need 400rwklw to get into the 11`s I think your suspension setup and tyres and driveline will have alot more then an extra 40klws. don`t get me wrong the extra power helps!! but if ppl are now getting high 13`s with stock power and just a few drapstrip style mods I think we will be seeing manual t`s with around 350rwklws hitting high 11`s!! and we need the right driver behind the wheel!!!

if it is an auto you can get 12`s out of those mods alone!! if you want the note then just remove the cetner muffler!! if it is a manual then you might want to go with a high flow cat and remove the center muffler!! with those mods alone you will get high to mid 12`s depending on the driver and the traction!!!

I have been told that if you do your cat with this set up!!! you get very good results... I will let you next week...

I pulled a 13.900 in a manual running factory tyres on 22psi 99% rubber at 103.9mph that was stock

that is them matey

you can get stinger units with 2 or 4 rca outputs. I think the 4 rca outputs are so you can run a 2 amp 2 sub setup, but I am not sure my audio guy got mine for me but I checked with him and he said you can get them ordered from strathfield (most of them)

with the rear speakers I used a double connection that makes the 2 LLC wires go into the 1 speaker wire. so my speaker wire is running 2 amps. one high pass one low pass.

one of the guys from create-a-car audio db `ed it for me. and ran me this morning to tell me so I will check it tonight... what kind of numbers have your cars been running??

no I am running rear speakers with the same set up. so my rear speaker wire run into 2 stinger LLC. 1 for rear speaker amp. 1 for rear subs I got the remote wire from the power sorce in the front dash. just splice the remote wire into the possitive wire(blue) and run it down the left side of the body. just undo the scuff guard and push the power wire and the remote wire into a gap between the body and the floor trim. you can use the factory wire from the rear speaker as running new wire to that would be a pain in the A$$ and not worth the little gain you would get. I mount my LLC in the top right hand side of the boot(where the sat nav would be mounted.) look close it is there. the best thing about that is there is a little flap there so you can access the controls with a small flat head screwdriver to play around with your high and low pass. the biggest thing I have learnt with this is that tunning is everything... I got the best result with 1 sub facing the back seats and the other facing the boot. but then I also got more rattles. so I lost 2db and turned my sub facing sideways and I only got 140db but it is much cleaner bass and still rattles but alot less. now because your RCA outputs are now right below your factory sub your rca leads will be far to long and you canot cut them down the I fed them through the right hand side of the boot(near the jack) and fixed them under the spare wheel. make sure you dont leave them loose under the carpet because again rattles are very annoying to find and these will rattle on the wood subtray. if you are getting 2 subs get 2 single boxes and then you can face them sideways and they will fit in the big square hole ontop of the spare wheel. I was very lucky because mine fit perfect so I did not have to tie them down. if yours do not fit tie them down because every bump you go over they will move around which can then cost you big money in replacing or reparing them(common sence) my next step will be to power up the front speakers with some boston pro and a clarion amp. then dig t.v in my I.C.C with xbox- linked to 2 headrest mounted lcd screens. if anyone has any questions just ask... Regards Chris

above the a/c you can get a single din holecut to fit a slide out 7.1inch lcd screen. to save some money hook an x-box or a ps-2 to this system so it acts as a dvd player instead of paying $1500 + for a slide out screen that has a dvd player in it. the benifit of this is it has RCA outputs and bass control to you can run 2 systems. your ford standard system still runs a/c and trip computer but all your speakers and subs and so on are running off you screen. I have seen 4 or 5 ba falcons run this setup and have had no problems

I just got my new audio install and can`t be happier, after playing around for along time, I found that the BA system was hard to get good sound out of. no matter how much you spend on amps and subs you will not get the same sound out of the BA as you would out of a system with RCA outputs. I have found a prduct that comers very close... within 90% of my old system. in my skyline I was running 2 x12inch 300wrms subs and a 600wrms amp I got 137db out of it which I was happy with. I am now running a pioneer D class amp and 2 x 12inch pioneer 350wrms subs in custom pioneer boxes. which should be around the 145DB mark with a good setup and a good head unit!!! I went to jaycar and payed $17.95 for a line level converter which did the job but had very little control over tuning the amp and subs. I did some work on it and the best result I got was 121db in my XR6 turbo. which hurt like a hole in the ehad after the money I spent on the new setup. I was sure it was because of the rca output for the LLC. so I spent yet more money on a product made by stinger which does the same thing.( converts rear speaker wire into RCA output) this LLc cost me around $110 but you now have much more control over the tune. I tuned the system last night and I am now running 142Db which is a 21db increase so as you can see it is all down to the tune you are using. the Falcons are good because the are sound proofed and you do not have to run brown bread over much of the boot or doors. I will get you some photos of the install after work tonight but I am very happy with the results and I can recomend the stinger LLC as great bang for buck in audio. so ppl that are running subs in there Turbos but are only running a cheap LLC and are not 100% happy with there sound try the stinger unit and you should see around 15db increase without a final tweak. any questions just ask Regards Chris

are intune worth going for a visit?? or are there better tuners out there?? I know this has been done to death but intune has not really been spoken about as much as others!!!

good results for the mods you have done!!! is the car auto or manual? if you don`t mind me asking how much did it cost? and what boost are you running at peak? I am looking to get mine done soon but I am thinking of getting a cooler first!! I don`t want to pay the tuner to tune my car now and then pay him for a retune when I get the cooler!!!