jj1947

Hello all again . I have been reading with great interest that I can expect to loose my auto transmission around 170.000 if this is because of the water cooland leaking into tranny that has been addressed by having my service guy fit a larger than recommended air cooled heat exchanger on the front of the radiator so it can be cooled by the fans when stopped in traffic and removing the cooling from liquid coolant it works well (BUT) if this is not the reason for this forcast of a short lifespan for my tranny I would be interested in any feedback you have. P.S An ounce of prevention is worth a ton of cure.

Hi All once more. I am just checking in to find out if anybody has found a perminent fix for the BA brake shudder that wont brake the bank I have tried aftermarket rotors and pads then re machined them when shudder returned now have slotted and dimpled rotors with soft pads from RDA but I fear I am only buying some time before the dreaded shudder returns has anybody come up with a perminent fix. P.S any advice would be appreciated.

Gidday " Bloan " I hate to rain on your parade ? but I thought the same way you did and when the brake shudder started I steered away from anything ford and opted for after market new rotors and pads to suit from R.D.A that was a fix for about 10.000km then shudder returned so I had them machined and even threw away the almost new pads and opted for something softer a lot of dust but sure enough back came the shudder at about the same time around 10.000km, I now have fitted new slotted and dimpled rotors with soft pads and see if this solves the problem which I doubt and from what I can see (NOBODY) has yet come up with a perminent fix without morgaging your home for brake upgrade.

Car is due in april for pedders annual suspension checkup because of this crap suspension on the front and especially rear it is a shame they built a nice car out of crap components as I like driving this car full of creature comforts but built from components sourced from the lowest bidder ( a real shame )

Hi Again Rudiger. It looks like your suggested way to go is the popular 1i have acquired a set of RDA slotted and dimpled rotors as I said for this reason I just wanted to find somwone who had got long km after fitting these rotors what did you mean by never looked back in terms of Km after fitting I would just like to get a set of pads to wear out.

Hi again Rudiger. The car has only done 150.000km and I am the first to jump on people who leave braking till the last moment and then jump on them I would have to discribe me in the scheme of things as a light to moderate brake user so I dont think it is that but what I dont understand is why the BA ford has so much trouble with the front brakes I just sold an old toyota townace van I had since new and it had 780.000km on the clock with the origenal rotors on the front never been machined just changed pads when they wore out and this has been the theme for the disk brakes on most cars I have owned so why the BA ford do you have any ideas.

Hi Rudiger. what I have done so far was to throw away the rotors that were on the car and replace them with a set of new R.D.A rotors and standard R.D.A pads that fix was ok for around 10.000km then shudder returned so I machined the disks and kept the old pads as they were hardly worn and the car at the moment is braking ok but after reading a lot of posts on these brakes I went in search of some slotted and dimpled R.D.A rotors and another set of standard R.D.A pads Which I will put on the car when the shudder returns do you think this will solve the problem I got the dimpled rotors as oposed to drilled as I read in some cases they crack between drilled holes and the dimpled ones dont have that problem.

Hi Everybody I am new to this forum stuff so please dont jump on me if I make a few mistakes while posting this thread, I like a lot of other BA Ford owners am seeking the holy grail on this car and that is if you havn't guessed it is to find a perminent fix for the front brake shudder I have read a lot of posts on how to fix the problem but cant find any posts that say after the fix they used they got a lot of km's from the fix without going to machining or changing disks after a few thousand km it would be nice if I could just wear out (1)one set of brake pads I love this ford a beautiful car to drive I guess that is why I have persuvered with this problem has anybody out there come up with a fix that offers longevety for the front brakes all answers appreciated no morons please.

also in regards to brakes they are standard rotors and pads freshly machined rotors.

I had the system flushed and new fluid added plus power bled there is no air that I can detect in the system what I suspect is that some crud was lodged under the brake rubber causing a bleed past hopefully it appears to have cleared but the pedal seems slightly lower but acceptable and not falling away under pressure for the moment

Hi Everybody this is my first post so please dont jump on me if I dont follow proper protocol. I have been having the normal it seems problems with my BA fairmont front brakes experiencing wheel shudder and seeing we solved this problem with my sons Late model camira I thought I would go down the same path with my BA but after 9000km give or take a few hundred the shudder returned and so I have started in search of the holy grail and seek a perminent fix so in order to make sure all the brake system was in good condition I put the car in to my local garage for the first step to have the hydraulics flushed and new oil placed in the system as the old stuff was looking rather black and after 145000km I suspected the origenal brake fluid I then had the new 9000km ago rotors machined but since fitting them I have noticed that the brake pedal was taking up lower than normal after conducting a stand still pressure test by keeping your foot on the brake with pressure I observed the pedal very slowly progressing to the floor a sign that the master cylinder has internal problems but the next day when I was getting ready to front up to my local parts place and purchase a new master cylinder tha brake pedal has returned to normal height and the pedal cant be made to drop the floor under pressure anymore I am suspecting foreign matter from the flush had lodged onder brake rubbers but cleared under pressure does anybody have any comment this unique problem all comments welcomed at this stage I would appreciate any help I can get.

What if you brake the hydraulic line at the master cylinder such as a replacement, I read somewhere that if you brake the line before the ABS modulater than normal bleeding wont get the air out and needs special bleeding procedures does anybody know anything about this