Bomber

Being a Plumber, I'm going to have a crack at fabricating the cooler pipes myself then get them welded up. Running eboost also means I can delete the factory boost sensor which will make the cold side pipe pretty simple. I'm running 63mm tube so will run a stepped down 90 degree silicon elbow straight off the FG throttle body. A turbosmart vee port pro will be attached probably just after the pipe passes through the inner guard. I was hoping to hide it behind the front bar but I don't have the height. In front of the wheel behind the inner guard can be done, but I don't really like the idea of it being there. It's not like the thing will be out in the rain but I'd rather keep it in the engine bay. From there, it will go back up to BPR fabrication for the custom 4" dump and waste gate plumbing. After that, the plan is to paint the bay then fit the engine and assemble what I can. In a perfect world, I'd like to have it running before painting the rest of the car but I don't know if that's viable given the amount of wiring required - see how we go.

Why the latest model pcm? De-burred and ready for the -10 fittings to get welded on then off to the powercoaters

Well, I think the Haltech Elite 1500 won't be getting the nod. Found out yesterday you've got to run a few plugs ins to make it work - particularly if wanting to run Ford coils. It starts to get real expensive. So, I'll go with the factory ECU with PATS disabled. You can still run the IQ3S dash via the OB2 port so all good.

The purists aren't going to be happy but all going to plan, I'm hoping to run the Haltech IQ3 Street display. I've chopped into a spare facia to get an idea of how I'd make a flat area for the panel, plus create space for other gauges such as eboost2, start button, etc. After doing the mock-up in cardboard plus putting some photos to scale on it, I'm happy with how it would look. I'll now get an aluminium infill made with the intention to glass it in then blend in and refinish as close to factory (in black) as possible. I'll back mask and do some chrome highlights around the border etc. The original warnings (park brake and so on) I'll probably leave dead as the IQ Street has them incorporated.

Have sourced a decent BFII Typhoon engine for the nugget

Do you spin the crank up again if changing rods and slugs?

Well, after nearly getting shafted on what was meant to be a 30k FG XR6T MK2 engine - that turned out to be a green top with a lick of red paint, I'm considering my options. The BA mock up dunger in the car at the moment was intended for scrap eventually but... I have access to some FG Turbo rods and was thinking maybe just put some half decent slugs on them. It's done 170k so hopefully would just take a quick hone. Either go full povo and just check piston and rods weights or, get the rotating assembly rebalanced. Clean the head up, fit PAC springs, head studs, oil pump gears and new guides. Bare bones basics. Given the amount of people I see using $200 N/A engines in X series conversions now with low boost, I'm sure a freshened up one with FG rods and say Ross pistons would get it done. 400rwkw is seriously as much as I want or need to run in the old girl. My question to those that really know these engines, is what's really the difference between N/A and Turbo heads and Cam profiles? I've been told something about the valves but haven't got a definitive answer. Found this interesting too: Conrods and Pistons Q: Do I need to rebalance my engine if I fit Atomic conrods to my XR6-T? A: As the engine is an inline configuration, the conrod and piston weights are not a function of the balance factor of the engine (as they are in a V configuration engine), so they can be installed without rebalancing the engine.

Found this interesting on Atomic's site: Conrods and Pistons Q: Do I need to rebalance my engine if I fit Atomic conrods to my XR6-T? A: As the engine is an inline configuration, the conrod and piston weights are not a function of the balance factor of the engine (as they are in a V configuration engine), so they can be installed without rebalancing the engine.

Will get it done. Billet 4 gear roller front planet set, billet c servo 2nd gear, chrome moly forward ring gear hub, hituf input shaft, roller thrust bearings, 6 clutch top gear, torque power bellhousing. The trans builder is extremely well respected. He has many living happily behind Barras. Just couldn't do the two speed thing and TH400's are heavy and the tunnel would have required a massage and custom cross member. This will bolt straight up.

My little GTX on cold start and bit of load in drive gtx spool.mp4

Little gtx spooly goodness. People didn't believe me when I said it spooled at cold start idle, lol gtx spool.mp4

If you check out BPR Fabrication on Fb you'll get a feel for the quality of work young Brad does. Great to find young people with real passion towards cars and pride in their work. The mani had a blast then off for ceramic coating. It's actually overkill for my application but it will be a really nice under bonnet statement. I just wasn't keen on running a 'J pipe' to clear the tower.

Ignore the mock up dunger 3540.

Custom cooler getting mounts sorted today

Sneak peek

The only reason its come to mind is the Barra XW ute in the pic above uses this. I think Paramount Performance are big on the Holley stuff so maybe it was just easier for them. Just trying to work out the best way to go with a standalone loom. My Cousin is a Motec distributor too so he might be able to hook me up.

Ok tuners, who has or is using this https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/dominator_efi/

CRG are local but I ended up going to a company called BPR fabrication based on a recommendation from someone I trust. He's a young fella but his fabrication and welding skills are first class. Hopefully will have some pics of my custom mani soon. The pic below is some of his work. That's done by hand too btw.