-
Posts
516 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Articles
Media Demo
Everything posted by Rusty XR6T
-
Fg New Intake And Battery Relocate
Rusty XR6T replied to MexicanBatman's topic in Fuel System & Induction Workshop
do you have the ebay link for the intake? would be keen to have a look at the price -
you want something like the above link, throw out the 240VAC plug pack and wire straight into the units 12VDC. once you run the composite cables (RCAs - Yellow = Vid, White = Left Spk, Red = Right Spk) to your roof mount DVD player it will play both the video and the audio from your new device. so if you set your ICC to AUX it will play sound from whatever the roof mount is playing, in this case your portable device. Wire the power for the new unit into the ACC so that way it turns on when your accessory circuit has power. Places like Scorptec etc have HD players like the link above as well - Scorptec
-
Hume was perfect! Apart from being boring as hell all the way to Sydney and the upped number of fixed cameras between Seymour and the border, everything is fine! No major potholes, roadworks etc either which is good
-
Ahh ok cool, which ones are they dre? Would be willing to give them a go! I'm like you mate more after the right colour to match headlights than actual usability
-
im sure most LED lights are ok, although 102 High Intensity LEDs on the one globe is probably generating a bit too much heat. I would recommend to stay away from the ebay job I first listed, pictured below. maybe around 10 or even 20 LEDs are ok, but 102 as you can see not so good. I'll be going the way of HIDs, nice colour temperature and super bright.
-
how are we going for a proposed route and date?
-
any updates Rudiger, it would be good to keep this one alive
-
yer I've got HID headlights, I was hoping for an easy out as I couldnt be bothered mounting ballasts etc for HID's down there so went for the LED's as the colour temperature was similar to my HID headlights. Turns out the easy way quite often doesnt work, last night I pulled everything apart, got the loose LED's out and put my old H11 globes back in, now off to get a HID kit for them
-
not long now ladies, looking forward to a nice get away with some roaring cars. I actually did the Hume part of this drive on Thursday last week. I needed to get to Sydney urgently so drove through the night Thursday night, picked up a very large crate Friday morning, had lunch in Lane Cove with a friend then drove back... needless to say I was absolutely knackered by the time I got home! Keep in mind I didnt do this in my nice fast car with very comfy seats, I did it in an 09 SR5 Hilux with semi road tyres on, it was extremely painful on my back and ears. My back from the seats and ears from the damn droning road noise those tyres thump out.
-
I dont mind being by myself, I can crank the stereo without someone always turning it down to talk about something. When I turn the volume up doesnt anybody understand that means I want to listen to the music and drive?
-
update for you guys... do not buy these LED fog lamps!!! please see pictures below, they show LED's that have gotten so hot they have melted off and are sitting inside my fog lamp housing. Out of 102 LEDs sitting on each globe, only about 2-3 LEDs actually light up now per globe. LEDs are obviously very cheap and serve a good purpose but not as fog lamps, well at least not the ones off ebay All well you live and learn I guess and yes yes I know my car is filthy
-
interesting about people saying their car hold revs through gear changes and others say it doesnt. Are we all talking about the same thing? The only thing I can think that makes a manual hold revs through gear changes is the pure inertia of the crank when load from the gearbox is gone, revs may hold for a poofteenth of a second. auto's may not do this because the engine is never not under load during gear changes. After reading this yesterday I paid close attention to my revs on the way to work this morning, I didnt notice any rev holding even for a second during changes, only when I boosted it from 0-80 I saw the needle sit still for maybe 2/10ths of a second when changing from 1st to 2nd. I just put this down to the timing of my feet from pushing the clutch in to taking my foot off the accelerator. on the track none of this hinders me or helps me, I dont take my foot off the accelerator down the quarter so would have no idea if the revs hang or not
-
dont worry about tools guys, ever since my mishap in the middle of knowhere near Jamieson I have set out to taking 2 socket sets, my tool box and jack on any extended drives. any little tools you may need along the way im sure to have with me On a side note we have decided to just bring the one car, so it will just be Jamie and me in my car, her car will stay in the garage... sorry Rudiger I know you were loking forward to the twisties challenge
-
The Company Credit Corp are legit, I had dealings with them a few years ago after my drug addict brother took out some loans in my name that I had no idea of. Obviously he didnt pay any repayments and I didnt know about it so Credit Corp were brought in to recover the funds. That just means theres a legit company called Credit Corp, doesnt mean your letter is legit. I love it when they call you and then try and do a security check - DOB, address etc I always refuse to give my info over the phone, how do you know some dodgy *beep* isnt calling and taking your info, its all the info they need to get Credit Cards, Loans etc in your name. you can always do a little search for the company yourself and check the ABN on the letter against their ASIC listing - ASIC
-
I have a manual and can say mine def doesnt do it, maybe its a thing on newer models? mine is a July 09 build. I know if you dont touch the accelerator and let the clutch out the rev's will increase to stop the car from stalling, but what your describing doesnt sound like this
-
im not worrying with the mesh, Gee said he's been up there lately and didnt need it getting real close now! for some reason it seems to be taking forever to get to the date.
-
I actually said im pissed off that this is all I've got to do on a Saturday night, as in jump on the forums and check out your pointless posts, but feel free to go off on whatever tangents you wish. it seems this has strayed from the original topic, maybe time to close the thread. haha go Bomber... love it
-
Massive Understeer At The Track, What To Do?
Rusty XR6T replied to xr_velocity's topic in Wheels and Tyres
-
come on bomber comment! dumbing raw fuel into the exhaust manifold to keep the turbo spinning is really only done on rally cars and is for changing gears, for taking off Dillz is right. I always thought the term anit lag was to do with anything that obviously removes the lag from a turbo system, so rally way of dumping raw fuel during gear changes or holding the revs at 3,500 RPM by randomly removing spark for launches. that would mean it doesnt control your launch, it assists it by allowing you to have boost at launch, or remove the turbo lag from your launch, wouldnt that then mean anti lag? im just pissed off that this is all I've got to do on a saturday night I have my boy this weekend so stuck at home.
-
hrmm pretty sure the launch control in the FG is to simply let the turbo build up boost, which I always thought was antilag. But please correct me if im wrong, or perhaps provide an explanation When you try and use it and dump the clutch you fry the rear tyres, if it were actual launch control it should control the use of power to the rear wheels to allow maximum acceleration without breaking traction. Ford relate to it as Launch Assist anyway as in the picture below and its only available in the turbo vehicles... why? I presume to allow the turbo to build boost. *pic stolen from this thread - Manual FG Launch Control Anyway back on track, launch control or assist comes from the clutch so you should be sweet mate
-
I understand what your saying, because the so called launch control in the FG is simply an anti lag that holds RPM you think that becuase you've got your foot on the brake then the anti lag will kick in at 3,500RPM or whatever it is. The launch control comes off the clutch mate, not the brake. I have been to Calder a fair few times and have never had any problems smoking the rears in the burnout, anti lag has never kicked in on me. your tailshaft and CV's will be fine as long as you can limit the axle tramp! trust me this sounds easier than it is, without better springs and shocks to keep the rear rubber on the ground then the axle tramp is sure to kill anything from your CV's, Diff, Tailshaft and all components inbetween. I dont see a line lock kick to be any problems Hrmm just read it was a ute, considering you have a solid rear dont worry about CV's
-
I know im starting to feel the pinch, filling up 2-3 times a week and it all starts to add up, all of a sudden a fill costs $80 instead of $60 even catching myself using 95 instead of 98, the other day I was absoluetly flat broke and needed to fill up so I actually put in 91 just so I could get around Long story short the car pinged its ass off and I got really bad fuel economy so it wouldve actually worked out better to use 95
-
not really sure on power increase or boost increase, was actually just looking to see if it does exist and it is true... looks like it is thanks ladies
-
I might bring 2 cars just to add some numbers! not sure yet but the XR5 might come as well will certainly provide some competition through the twisties
-
So overboost is part of the normal operation of the car, in short bursts of course its like Indy cars allow extra burst for overtaking etc but only a limited amount. Does anyone happen to know the stock boost PSI and what it is allowed to spike to?