Rusty XR6T

haha resource not found, now that's funny I'm with *Beep*, lol at 404 being blue screen of death. I have a t-shirt that says "there's no place like 127.0.0.1", the guys at work always crack up... the missus just calls me a w*nker

Car: FG XR6 Turbo Manual Tyres: Brigestone Turanzas (unsure on size but Taxi tyres) 1/4 Mile: 12.898 not sure on the rest of the info, im at work and my tickets are at home, I can double check and post later Car is stock except for K&N, and XR8 Airbox

this is absolutely hilarious

so some bad news guys, I've had to cancel this trip due to factors out of my control. Long story short my ex is a f'ing mole and despite your best efforts to get them out of your life they still manage to get in there some how and f'ck you over just for fun. sorry fellas

there aren't many cars for such a big cruise, I guess we're going for quality and not quantity.

so is that a confirmed from Adam? I believe Rudiger's "air filter" is dry and requires lubing

excuses

You cant really go past Telstra, I have used pretty much everyone and ended up back at Telstra. I used to be a huge Nokia fanboy, until I had the N97, after that phone I will never get a nokia again. I have 2 different phones for 2 different jobs... an iphone and a Blackberry Bold 9700 (best phone ever) My iphone I deliberately thrash as I hate that stupid phone! I charge both phones at the same time and at the end of each day the iphone needs charging whereas the blackberry will happily go all week without problems. the best phone out at the moment is the Samsung Galaxy S running Android, it is the smoothest fastest thing I have ever used and will be upgrading to it shortly. did anyone hear that iphone can now do video chat? I thank you apple for providing a service that my f'ing nokia did 5 years ago, oh I also thank you for the daily charging I need to do on a phone that is rated for only 300 charge cycles. actually I think there is a new Sony out that looks ridiculously small, havent looked into yet though

The maybe list is bigger than the confirmed list I agree with RHR to PM the maybes, as its getting very close to the date and by the sounds of things accommodation is just about gone. Don't worry Rudiger I have RACV stored in my phone on the slim chance you lock your keys in your car again

that Volvo is all kinds of wrong!

someone from the maybe list needs to lead by example!!! Please put me down as confirmed and booked! I booked in at Jindabyne Alpine Gables, waiting for Gary to confirm whats happening at Tumut

I get this also, but only happens when you hit a bump at full lock or when I was on the skid pan. if your like me and have 20"s its the tyre scrapping on the plastic wheel well.

come on Adam you don't recognise the white FG from your photo shoots! I think Paul may have some sanity issues

do you mean XR6 or XR5?

I love the zf box, think its amazing! And can do a great quarter mile. But that's my whole point, the auto can do a great quarter mile, in a stock car the driver might as well jump in the passenger seat, all they need to do is put the foot to the floor and keep the thing straight. This isn't the case once you get into higher power of course because traction then becomes an issue. I do believe that as I start to mod the car I will be able to keep up with the autos into the 11's with some good clutch work and nice gear changes

There are absolutely no other mods, heaps of guys on the forum know my car. I only bring up the topic because its really hard to find people with the manual in a sedan that have actually sent it down the mile. I am more or less looking to see if I am on par or if I'm missing something

Hi Guys, I'm really curious as to what quarter mile times people are running with Stock FG XR6T Manuals. My car has only XR8 Air Box and Snorkel, K&N Filter and I replaced the U pipe that goes into the turbo with the straight through pipe from Rapid. Recently I ran 12.89 at Calder (have slips to prove it) on stock taxi wheels with second hand Brigestone Turanzas, this is after I was told several times that the manual box is slow and I will never beat the autos, in the same thread I was told I will never be able to break the 13's... thus far I have run a 12.89, 12.90, 12.95, 13.00 My 60ft's are pretty much consistently spot on 2.00, I managed a 1.98 once only. So just wondering what people are running with this style setup or similar on this car, no F6's please... we all know how fast you are from factory

hey GR8XR6 you provide the car and a few beers and I'll help you out, will be good for you with all your driving

I got mine from ebay (the guys who took that pics you have) and it comes precut. fitment was perfect, took around 10 mins

I got mine done last week on my FG, sounds amazing! The best is when the turbo gets going to exhaust actually roars! at 100 its fine, not much noise at all, if the windows are up you can barely hear it

Ok ladies and gents, here is the write up... if there is anything you don't understand or need help with just let me know. Although the way this actually works is quite complex the install process is easy. You will need 1 x 4.0A Peltier Device - Oatley Electronics 2 x Heatsinks (Copper preferred but Aluminum is ok too)I just used 2 slimline (1RU) Core 2 Duo CPU heatsinks Heatsink compountd to make sure the Peltier device has a good connection to both heatsinks 1 x normal fan for inside box 1 x blower fan for outside box - both fans can be bought from Jaycar Some wiring and soldering knowledge About 2-3 hours spare because the console is a ass to get out Before you start I thought I would mention the crash sensor computer, pictured below, PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING ON THIS MODULE!!! IT IS EXTREMELY BAD IF YOU F'UP ANYTHING ON THIS MODULE This is just a simple diagram of what we are going to do Step 1. Ok so you need to start by pulling your dash apart, there are already topics about this but if you can't find them its pretty easy, if you have troubles with this first step let me know. The fun part will be trying to get the side trims off the center console past the handbrake. Step 2. Now the console is out of the car we can get to work cutting a hole in the center console to fit the cooler through. The position and size of the hole will depend on what heatsinks you get. I know my hole isn't the best, I'm crap at that stuff Step 3. Getting the Peltier device ready for install... the Peltier device needs to be wedged between the 2 heatsinks with adequate heatsink compound on each side (this is very important!) Then clamp it all together by screwing the 2 heatsinks together, make sure you don't over tighten, the sides of the Peltier device are ceramic and can crack. Before you install in the car connect the wires of the Peltier device quickly to a 12V battery, obviously red to + and black to -. this is so we can double check which side will get hot and which side will get cold... make sure you only do this for max 30 seconds just so you can tell the hot side and the cold side, running the Peltier module like this without a fan may cause it to fail. Step 4. Now just fit the clamped heatsinks into the cutout you made in the console, should look something like the below, but please note when I took that pic the hot side had a normal fan and not a blower fan. you can now fit your fans ready to be wired up... the fans simply screw in straight to the heatsink Step 5. Insulation... below is some pics of how I insulated the center console, again I am not the best at this sort of stuff so it doesn't look the neatest, the main point here is to make sure all faces of the console are insulated, this will keep the cold in and the heat out. Make sure you insulate the lid as well. The lid is easy to do, undo all the screws, pull apart and then put insulation into each bit of honeycomb. The hardest part of the insulation is cutting it to make sure your not going to hit anything when the console goes back in the car. An important note, do not place insulation too tightly around the hot side heatsink, otherwise the heatsink wont be able to get enough air and will overheat Step 6. The test... now that you have everything fitted, connect both fans and the Peltier device to your battery for testing, let it run for 20 mins and periodically check it to make sure you cold side is getting nice and cold and your hot side is not getting too hot, if you physically cannot touch the heatsink for at least 5 seconds on the hot side or you can smell an electrical burn then you haven't mounted the heatsinks to the Peltier device properly or the fans are not mounted properly. Step 7. Getting everything back in the car... now that everything is tested and working to your satisfaction it is time to mount everything back in the car, the console goes in the exact same way it came out. On each side of the console box I cut 2 very small holes into the aircon vents going past it, this is just so we can create a positive pressure inside the center console, so effectively air comes in the console area near the hot heatsink, the hot heatsink fan sucks the air past the hot heatsink and blows it straight down between the console trim and the carpet and under the seats. This will create a very efficient air flow. of course the cooler we can get the hot heatsink the colder out console box will get Step 8. Wiring... this can be done as many ways as you like, I have mine connected to a temperature control module with a few switches and things (This is mainly so its ready for later when I make it do hot and cold) The best place to get power is from the wires going into the cigarette lighter port (AUX Power). Its up to you if you choose to fuse the connection, I put a 10A fuse in line with mine. Step 9. Fit the last piece of the console... once the final top piece of the console is fitted you cant see anything, the noise from the fans is lower than your engine noise. Your car battery will be able to keep this up and running for about 10 hours before going flat without the car running. The console can take around 10-15 mins to cool completely. This is designed to keep things cold that are already cold, if you put something warm in there and want to cool it down expect it to take around 2 hours. I think that's about everything, if I have missed anything or you don't understand something just let me know. And as usual please be careful, everything is at your own risk

The center console of the FG has 2 plastic lugs that clip into the floor pan, there is a cavity here that goes under the floor pan, the condensation will drain out through there. Currently I'm having a few heat issues because I haven't acquired the right fan yet. To get a bit scientific there is no such thing as cold... only absence of heat, therefore to cool the center console the Peltier cooler will generate heat on the other side... heat that needs to be channeled away from the console. I should have this fixed tonight, I'll be changing the normal fan to a blower fan that will direct the hot air directly away from the console In the mean time here are some pics of what things look like. The pics in order are the heatsink under the cup holder that gets hot (with fan attached, the heat sink in the console that gets cold and the actual Peltier module ready to be wedged between the 2 heatsinks. Once I get it all sorted tonight I will finish the write up and post

condensation really depends on humidity, but if and when condensation does occur it can drain out the bottom nicely, the center console is designed to let any liquids spilt drain out anyway

ok well last night it was just chucked in as a proof of concept, tonight I will be pulling it all apart to run proper cabling, switches and thermal cut off. I will get some proper pics of the whole thing then. Hardest part is pulling the center console out, good luck with that one

I'll take some pics tonight, there's not much in the center console to take pics of, all the work is hidden between the center console and the center cup holders under the plastic. the ipod may be a tad difficult, easy on my car as I don't have one (I have an iphone for work and all day every day I want to throw it out the window at high speed) The tech specs of apple products state the temp rating is to go quite low so 2 degrees shouldn't be a problem... im not 100% sure on this so happy for someone to prove me wrong. Anyway the main thing is that the actual Ford ipod module sits under the ipod pouch, all parts in the car HAVE to be rated to something like -20 degrees to +85 degrees, so the Ford ipod module is fine, and if you want to make the console cool just dont put your ipod in there, the cooler heater is on a switch so you can turn it off and on when you like. Went for a run last night getting ready for the Melbourne Marathon, so when I left home I put 2 bottles of water in there... got to my location and went for a run, came back to the car 2 hours later and enjoyed a nice cold bottle of water... if yo ask me it paid for itself right there and then. The mod was actually quite cheap, I would say all up with heatsinks, the Peltier module and cabling under $50