Wenier

^^^^^^^^^ This guy. Pics of GF rear mudflap. Have you asked her what her warranty status is like, might be better than fraud.

Google. Should tell ya where.

Sometimes running heater on full for long enough can get the air out but its no guarantee as it just gets stuck sometimes. Goodluck hope its an easy one like that.

If you have it too loose I pretty sure it will open under boost and bleed off some of that pressure. Of course this would probably show up on a boost gauge if fitted. As long as your not losing boost then you could loosen it a bit, but whats happening now isn't really an issue.

That seems reasonable. Once you have that 2nd key you could get a 3rd and code it yourself so you have another just incase.

Ill give my reason for oil press over temp since I did suggest it. You can tell the oil temp from pressure by the fact that the pressure has dropped closer to the minimum value that the vehicle requires. As has been stated once coolant is at temp the oil still has a long way to go. But I would rather know that my pressure could be below the min that it should be for a given RPM than the temp. Obviously if you have a major issue and loose oil you'll probably be told by the warning light on the dash first. But if your driving along normally and its lower than it should due to having lost some but not all the oil the pressure gauge would tell you this. I run 2 defi electronic racer series gauges being oil pressure and boost. (In a BF oil pressure at 2000RPM should be no lower than 43, and at idle think its 17 (might be 19))

I had a liquid noise in my subie, was the heater core with air in it. So when started and water pump was moving the water around would get that running water noise then it would stop.

Id suggest oil pressure over temp.

Same engine so yea, if you want to vent it should be same same.

My motocross bike had to be angled to close the tail. And every other bike for that fact that's been on it. With having a BF though I could leave bikes straight and tie tail up at about 30-45 degree angle.

The weight of the oil is to do with temp. If you are racing you want to run a higher viscousity as a 60 will be the same as a 40 at the higher temps you will see when giving the engine that much stick for a long period. If however you are generally driving about normally with the occasional bit of spirited driving then you should stick with the manufacturers recommendation.

No worries, will have to wait and see if it goes away one day. I hadn't done any DTC clearing or re-flashing of tunes for months and had done some long trips and it came up with that when I thought I should have a look and see if anything was logged.

You know the old V8 doesn't fit without the bulge right. Its not just looks it actually needed it. And I don't like car bra's personally but each to their own.

Were you meant to say ford only put bulge bonnets on cause it looks good?

What does the car class as a drive cycle?

If it were that simple I wouldn't have asked. I can go for a drive or multiple drives, erase codes everything but it always comes up with that.

Hey guys, Just wondering if someone can give me an answer to this issue. When I try to read the DTC's in my ute I plug the xcal3 in as per normal and follow the on screen instructions. It gets to the turn key to ON but don't start so do that then about 30sec later I get this code. P1000 - obd systems readiness test not complete. So it throws that code and won't give any others. Anyone know why it does this? Thanks.

I'd go Plazmaman over the SS overpriced stuff.

You can do it, but you normally require 2 working keys to enter the program mode. Look up the procedure in your owners manual, you can do the remotes without the keys. When doing the remotes you enter programming mode and it forgets all remotes then you simple go through each remote you have to activate it for your car. That way your missing remote won't open the car, the key itself still will though.

If you have a rwkw figure you can use this to get Derived Nm: (9543 X RWKW) / RPM = Derived Nm

Refitted turbo today after changing exhaust housing for a ported one and upgraded the actuator while there. Also fitted anchorlox on manifold and turbo, turns out can't fit two of them as the manifold doesn't have enough clearance. Off to see the Tuna next to sort the new actuator out.

Just had a look at mine and I have my + tapped off a red with silver or grey stripe wire. It is in the corner of the grey plug on the drivers end of the ICC plugs. Hope this helps you.

Switch those 2 around and hopefully that is it. If not then which it probably wont as I cant find the red wire in my manual. By the looks of the wiring diagram the Yellow wire (large wire compared to alot of other ICC wires) appears to be direct from battery.

No I think it was my fault as I wasn't as clear as I should have been when telling you the wires. Negative can be from the power source socket, and the Positive from there is actually the acc wire for the gauge as the power socket is not live without the key turned out of the off position. The fulltime positive is from the ICC as it has a fulltime power source for the radio/clock memory etc. Illumination from the power socket unused lamp is fine. I don't know if the red at the ICC is fulltime positive or not, can't remember but with a test lamp you can figure it out. If you simply switch the Positive and Acc wires around it may fix your problem. Sorry bout that I mucked ya up yesterday.

What wires have you connected? Do you have 4 being fulltime pos and neg, acc, and illum? You may have the full time power on a circuit that is not fulltime this will cause it to not have power when the vehicle is off and lose its memory.