retro-xr6t

Honestly, im gonna get myself a supercharged GT or GTE, only because for my street cruiser I want that v8 note hence why I have the force 8 at the moment, but am now also chasing that punch off the line while still retaining the ability to tow my ED to events. I can't agree more with what Panda Eyes has said, I got addicted to that progressive increase in accelleration. More so with the lag, then light switch slam into your seat feeling of the turbo 6. Turbo 6 definitely feels faster. However the new 5.0l motor can push out an enormous amount of power with bolt ons only as well, all comes down to what kind of delivery you want and what the car is gonna be used for. long story short lol, drive both, work out what you want, work out what you can afford, then make a decision.

lol so true about double the budget and triple the time, I was only meant to spend 25k including panel and paint, could own a FG F6 and have it worked for what I've spent on my ED now and its not even running yet lol :*(. Biggest tip I can give, do it once, do it right, no point skimping out on a couple things cos they'll more than likely break, have a good chance to take other things with them and then costs you more in the long run.

More progress on the car today, got the 9 inch back from Final Drive yesterday and its now fitted back into the car, looks pretty tough. Has a brand new 9 inch housing, 31 Spline Toms Axles, Strange Centre, True Track and 3.73 final drive ratio. 3.5" Dump pipe to Cat and 2" screamer welded up. Also have a polished Power steering reservior cover sitting at home ready to go on.

Just realised you said aeroflow and not aeromotive Ralph bahaha. Nah most of those fittings are mine, some for other people.

Holy crap man this car is awesome! can't believe I've missed this thread! Love the work gone into it, sounds like such a weapon and makes me anxious to get mine going lol.

Haha nah I only have 1 of each, will run it to what they can handle and if they max out then will have to add another pump and reg in. See how it goes but on e85 it might be pushing the boundaries of whats safe. or get bigger reg even

Yeah will be interesting to see for sure, especially since I am also trialling the Atomic Viper intake manifold which is basically a ported and flow mapped FG manifold (Simon at XFT has had iirc 943rwhp out of one of these stock and unmodified). So anyways bit of an update as well, a whole bunch of goodies has arrived including a fuel cell, all my fittings, Aeromotive 1000hp fuel pump, Aeromotive 1000hp FPR, braided lines, bosch 2300cc injectors and thermo fans, so now the task of making the engine work! It's looking like I'll max out the fuel pump at this stage but can always add a second in if that's the case. As blasphemous as it may be, its not the only holden/hsv part helping to put this car together, the serpentine belt is a actually a super6 one, and fits perfectly without running the A/C pulley. 300x600x100 Intercooler with 3" inlet and outlet is now fitted and piping as well, holes are cut and prepped for piping to enter the engine bay. Front scorcher bar all cut up and test fitted, needs to be colour coded which is on the list but all fits nicely now, gonna look sweet. Looking at painting cooler black to stop any prying eyes from realising wtf is going on lol.

Great results man, these FG's are unbelievable what they can do basically stock with some supportive mods. That paint looks awesome too must go bright green once the envy flake catches the light.

Thanks man, yeah I wanted to do everything properly, not cut corners. I dunno just figured I'd keep something a little closer to my chest until results were to be seen, don't really wanna talk about power figures until it actually makes them if you know where im coming from, with all the hype these days about power figures, so long as the car does what I want it to do and does 1/4 times that im aiming for I'll be happy with whatever the end number is. The Turbo is a Borg Warner S366 Bullseye with BatMo Race cover and BatMoWheel turbine. The turbine setup is designed to increase surface area inside the housing, basically the turbo is a 66mm turbo, but with the BatMoWheel it is uprated to do the job of a 71mm turbo. However, the BatMoWheel and BatMo Race cover, assist in spooling and creating lower rpm torque. So in a nutshell, the turbo is the size of a 66mm turbo, can create the power of a 71mm but has the spool of a smaller turbo. It's fairly new technology to come out, so im kind of seeing how it goes, not too many cars have been tested with these turbo's on but the graphs that have been released by Borg Warner and a couple of supra forums have shown that low down torque is waay higher. Thanks mate , trying to aim for a sleeper look.

seems I should get myself some of these bkr6e's for my ED?? I just ordered standard plugs are these gonna cut the mustard guys?

Bit more of an update, things are starting to move along now and the motor is now dummy fitted in the bay with everything having good clearance, bonnet closes as well (pretty good thing that hey), gearbox fitted and shifter clears everything as well. Washer bottle is most likely going to be removed, as it detracts from the whole bay Shifter should sit nicely after the console goes back on Plenty of room between the waste gate and the firewall

Have you inspected the dyno read outs comparing stock tune to new? Could have shifted the torque around or made it less linear, so it has a higher peak power and torque but the torque isn't as linear.

Thanks for that info Ratter that was a great read , To handon go down to the workshop and ask him about it, you paid for the service you should at least be told what he did lol. 18psi is pretty damn high mate, upload a dyno graph for us I'd be interested to see the boost and power curve.

me likey!

my FPV BF Force 8 has a Ford badge not a FPV badge on the steering wheel. Same as the exterior as well. If it has a build number its geniune, if no build number its a mock up.

Nah I didn't post them , there are some things I'd like to keep close to my chest until final figures are made haha.

um the screamer will come on at the same boost level every time. its a spring that opens the waste gate which allows the gas to go out of the screamer instead of into rear turbo housing, to aid in stopping overboosting. Edit: So basically you'll need to set up the wastegate spring according to the boost levels you will be running.

love the sleeper mate, some really impressive times out of this car, definitely gotta be happy with it :D

Just tell your tuner that you want a safe reliable street tune, if he is of any worth he'll advise you when the car is at its limits of this. He should have a knock kit that he uses to listen for knock, and he will know when the clutch starts slipping etc etc. It's all good to have 400 fly wheel kilowatts, but then the poor stock driveline has to transfer that to the ground. Build to purpose, or tune to build. I would say anywhere from 300rwkw to 350rwkw should be attainable with the mods you have given, depending on what the clutch does and how well the intercooler holds up from heat soak.

Dave by slide over you mean its just a shroud that goes over the plastic reservior?? Thanks mate Cheers Ralph I'll have a look at it and get back to you about that, could be a good idea cos looking at the room I have for the intake it's pretty tight, removing the reservior away would give me more room for the pod and all that biz.

Nice work mate love the FG's, such an awesome base to start with. As bellato said check all your bolts, to see if that helps. You could try replicating the noise while you're looking under the car, have a mate jiggle the car while its stationary, might give you an idea where to look if it makes the noise again. Just be careful you dont squash your face :/

Well turns out the calipers dont work lol D: . Will just have to fork out for a Cebco 330mm kit or a RBS/UPC one. Anywho we started on the motor the other day, and got it pretty much to the point of dummy fitting it into the car, gearbox and clutch kit all fitted up, need to get rid of the factory PS reservior though, when we ordered it I didn't realise they were plastic lol. Apparantly PWR do a polished one? Or can any of you guys recommend any?

I think everyone is a little worked up on this. I for one am not blaming the mechanic outright, tuners/mechanics get unfair blame for anything that goes wrong and cop a lot of sh*t from customers trying to get something for nothing. I think (although I can only speak for myself) what is trying to be said is that /should/ this tuner be at fault for this then he should help this guy out. If he's not and it is just a case of bad luck which does happen, then sorry bud but that's how it goes. Honestly if the hose just blew off then that's just bad luck but if it isn't because of the hose and it's through incompetence/negligence then it's another story and people should be told so others don't suffer damages from the same place. Leigh

Hi mate, Sorry to hear this, its really sh*t when your pride and joy goes bang in the hands of someone else. I work in Port Hedland myself and have worked in karratha and sorry to say (also I dont mean to sound rude by pointing out the obvious) but it was a mistake to take your car up there, the hot weather mixed with sh*t fuel quality that comes from bad storage environments is not a place for a high performance car, especially when these guys are not accustomed to the regular tuning and building of Turbo cars. (they deal mainly with cammed HSV's as v8's dont get affected by the heat so much and that's pretty much the main car base up there). My advice would be to send the car off to an independant party to ascertain what the cause of the problem was and then if he is at fault and accredited drag his name through the mud until he pays up. Unfortunately its not just the miners and FIFO workers that are only up there for the money. Hope it works out, I wouldn't be aiming for 400rwkw on 95 up there mate, in the peak of summer your car will be pinging off its head on boost. However a good engine base would be to go to Atomic and purchase a rebuild kit, or buy a long engine from Brad. Leigh