zayd687

ahhh that's some great ideas right there... if only I had some way to clear the block like they did wth their customs cross over from stage 2 one that looks slim and connects to the throttle that would of been perfect, but I tried with rubber to no use :( it just doesnt shut the bonnet if I had sumthing else that could work perhaps it would same me running the standard cross over and some slim n small strait into the throttle I could chuck out the heavy sh*tty std cross over. ive run the pipies exactly like in stage 2, but a shorter distance as ive used cold piping to come in through the headlight. ill attach pics and you guys can give some ideas what I can fabricate or need I dont think process west would sell me just the middle section :(

hey guys thanks for your replies .. one more question!!! I understand the rapid system cooler setup in regards to running the pipes. what I dont understand is if I dont use the std cross over, where do I mount the stocky blow off valve? is it needed?

ok maf is located near the throttle body.... so I can change the pipes anyway. so your saying remove the std cross over, do exactly as your link/diagram but attach air intake pipe that sits where the battery was and put a pod on it. That air in take pipe will be on the front of the turbo sucking in cold air as the compressor spins sorry for the technical writing I just want to be really sure.

Hi wenier is the above what you mean? sorry for the dodgy diagram. 1) where the original air intake box/pipe was, use that way to put in new intercooler hoses to the intercooler through the passenger headlight. 2) use the other intercooler exit and attach the cooler through driver headlite to turbo 3) attach plastic pipe from std xr6 cross over to turbo as per original 4) run new pipe to battery tray and attach a pod. is this generally what you meant?

didnt read your question well. im using the standard intake plenum. im budgeting my costs to have her up and running before I move onto introduce the plasma and upgrade the airbox, cooler , injectors all during the time of tuning. so far the car has cams and with the turbo shud make some interesting power itself.

see my diagram of what im doing so far.. I can change this im using stock oem piping as its flexible and easy to use. until I upgrade the cooler later on.

HMM REALLY???? what you mean rapid setup ? is that a particular brand? where would I be moving the airbox too? this sounds mroe interesting... I will draw you guys an example of what im doing for now.

it hasnt crossed my mind , I would be upgrading the standard airbox sometime? why? is there another route I can take for the piping.. if nothing I was going to just cut a whole around 3 inch in diametre and join the pipes through there.

lol thanks tabs... haha im doing the conversion myself, so far im up to the stage of the extractors off and intake and having the piping line up to where the turbo will be sitting. im just not sure about how the standard xr turbos are setup???? hahah cant believe u guys thought im sticking a cooler on a stock car with no boost...... ! =) so any ideas guys? if not ill run it differently and fabricate my own pipes? but any advice would be quite useful at this point.

hey guys im having a hard time trying to find how to fit the standard intercooler on a n/a ford. Where does the piping go into? I tried fitting the Metal pipe that comes with original piping under the headlight but its a no go? does anybody have a picture of their stock setup or any advice how the pipes run n where they go to? hopefulyl I dont need to cut the chassis :( any advice is much appreciated on this

is there a cross member under the sump?? how did you tap the sump? im lookin at doing this but im not sure if the sump has cross member below that's holding the block otherwise I could tap it on ramps?

rubbish I got em n their excellent I got the crow cam ones stage 2.... excellent top end definately feel the car more lively... the tuner was crap didnt get more power out of them but once I took her for a nice run.. OUCH after 4 thousand rpMS OUCH the car moves. I spent overall around 1600-1800 inc a standard tune to get her to idle and work. but hell worth it esp if your thinking about force induction AND with these n the turbo WOW.. im itching to put the kit on now but lacking funds. cant wait so yeah go fo it

hmmm underdrives = ehh it doesnt really tickle me so I never really cared Intake = yeah but not much of an increase exhaust = YUP.. def felt it in the seat once I got ph 4490's extractors. cams = well worth it, def good top end... I didnt get much power because the tuner was sh*t but despite that the performance factor after 4 thousand RPM it just came alive and ALOT more pull, I spent = 400 for crow camshafts, 500 installation, 700 for tuning it as it didnt idle after installing. capa stock tunes = nah that's crap stallie = Not yet but DEFINATELY would put it in if im not going to convert to a t56 manual. Diff gears = mines a single pegger... so im not sure was going to try 3.7's but I mite leave it and get a lsd kazz lsd/lsd = dont know, havent thought about it yet will after TURBO KIT / charger = HELL Yeah... pickup a nice kit for around 1.2, install is about 1500-2000 but if u can find a mech as a mate will be hell cheaper really straight forward... im only telling you how the car feels and drives I have no clue on the dyno yet as im tuning the car after the kits on mine with the cams tune = 1400 with the new xcal 3 n hoping to pull alotta power and it will words dont express it but def would be a rush to drive the thing. with injectors, bigger intercooler and stuff you'd be running close to 300rwkw without upping the boost more then 8psi id say.

hi guys just a theoretical question, you can install crow cams stage 2 in your without tuning it straight away * noted You can also have a turbo kit installed in your car, once again without it being tuned (5 psi ) what if you do both without tuning it straight away what could happen ? any factors like duration, lift of the cams that could be detrimental with an addition of forced induction for the ecu ?

thanks for the advice on the fitting measurements it will become useful. I have one more question, with the ba's when installing the cooler , do I have to angle grind the sub frame that's behind the front bar?? aam I braketing the cooler onto the subframe? im just not sure if I have to bracket it there or elsewhere and whether I need to angle cut nething when installing it. the rest of it I think is quite straight forward. thanks for your guys help and thethread starter

hi Guys when a your stock xr6 turbo blows or you wish to get a replacement, if its an aftermarket turbo do you have to get new braided lines for oil n water? are there any turbos that would ultimately fit the standard lines?

good advice, can anybody view the pics I cant?!???!?? 104ord couple questions, when tapping the sump, how did you make sure not to get shavings into the sump??? I always thought drilling it could have some lead into the sump? did you use braided hoses also for the waterlines or the standard waterlines from an xr6t? just more specific, what bit did u use to drill into the sump ? and did u use any additives to secure the barbed fitting ? once u tapped it in? great advice!

because were car enthusiasts we muck around with our toys

hmmm thanks for the above reply, I thought the butterflies were to be removed? with the sump, do you have to take it out in order to drill it ? or is it easy to tap on the hoist?

thanks phooned. I dont understand using new heater pipes n hoses, are there any pics? cause im doing the same conversion but I seem to be getting more parts then required. couldnt you just run a bleed valve to control the boost without opting for looms and solenoids?

I think you also need a xr6t plenum ? and instead of the wiring looms and stuff you can opt for a electronic boost controller I think. not sure if the solenoid is needed. and a boost guage!

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BUMP im having this same problem.... did you guys find out the soloution?????? was it the board or the white connector?