zayd687

well in your circumstance, I would of just bought a run around car. this ford is going to be a 350 rwkw enthusiast car.. which means it wont be practical to be driven everyday based on fuel economy. well I wouldnt say it doesnt work.... just converted my ba into a turbo, spent today just relocating the battery cost me 100 bucks cables, terminals and some connectors.... now its done im just waiting on a pulsar air box which im going to mount where the battery was and make piping for the turbo with a fpv snorkal... overall it cost me less then 200 bucks.... I could of purchased $700.00 process west kits or plazmaman, but I cant justify it being spent especially since I have a mortagage and bills. based on the experience the journey is what counts and u learn so much and see how it responds thus new mods you'll think of and can fabricate also. but really I understand your at work 6 days that's your bread n butter so I completely understand your situation. I hope this car pulls hard and when it does post a clip mate.. lookin forward to it ! =)

haha where theres a problem theres a soloution that's what I learnt, besides best to give it a shot... cant hold urself back all the time best parts knowin u built this car with your own hands really

far you could save so much money if you learn to do things for yourself. but I guess if u got the money u got it...onli thing id need a tuner for is to tune the car. the rest of it somehow id build the intake, get a cooler to fit, replace the injectors, ATTEMPT to weld up a 4 inch with a miggy its just fun and I love the learning factors involved and you get to know your car so much more better then paying somebody. increase in knowledge is more beneficial as it means u start understanding how it all works and soon u'll start fabricating your own intakes/cooler pipes, welding wastegates, changing turbo parts running new lines n go wtf I cant believe I spent so much money paying some1. I love these cars definate project cars and havent regretted changing from jap cars to these love em I think also u shud call up around for exhaust see if any1 can fabricate it for less. dont worry about the turbo lol brand new car/turbo why would u wanna change it ! when u hear it screeching and about to die.. UPGRADE\

most likely the tuner set it as rich because it was his FIRST attempt at tuning crow cam stage 2 cams. the car wouldnt start at all when I installed the cams. I wnot be taking it to him again though. I didnt think boost sensors were required in the xt, usually you just need a map sensor and fuel regulator for it to be tuned. but this would be when you take it for tuning. I havent installed the map sensor, I will in the next weeks I also have BILLS haha. what do u mean in regards to a splutter?. I have put the boost back down to 0.4 bar and its holding all the way unlike 0.5 bar which woldnt hold boost. im new to the boost world. right now its working perfectly fine. come rain it will be again sluggish... I can upload a recording of it if u guys want if me gong first/2nd/3rd? I just fitted my in car cam! =) im hoping its water oging thru and that I DONT need to install boost sensors n crap cause that's going to be a real bitch as I have little patience with hard to reach wiring ! hence why im delaying the map sensor. what are your thoughts? the cam timing is also an idea as it was tuned for an N/A who knows its impact now due to the rise in boost/power. might have to take it for a tune real soon. p.s do you think I should put a pod on the turbo so incase it can stop perhaps water going in somehow? any ideas I might be just buying some wires to relocate battery, weld up a tray or use existing if I can take it off and make a brand new air intake for the turbo but that a whole new project sigh*!

ok guys the car is a previous ford ba XT with a bolted turbo setup. I was reading post that between 5-6 psi the afrs are fine but between 7-8 is when they start leaning. MY CAR is running RICH. I can smell the fuel!. nothing major but goes away after awhile comes back when driving slow. <-- that a tune would fix im guessing. the car currently runs a stock xr6 setup the turbo has NO INTAKE, but the standard cross over allows one for the air intake box on the opposite side of the battery, one for the cooler pipe, and one ive blocked. there is no intake on the turbo I am purchasing a knn filter but once again turbo is sucking in hot air this current moment. im thinking somehow the turbo is pulling in water from somewhere as some1 previously stated. its not traction control. the car runs perfect in normal weather.. its just the rain that it starts slugging like crap. im hoping to get it tuned soon based on the the car running really rich atm cause I can smell fuel and hopefully can save up for an air intake and re locate the battery.. its alot of work so far its taken me 3-4 months to put the setup on getting the oil pressure right and working the perks, I pretty much contructed my own piping n all. so hopefully some of your guys ideas can help me with this problem as you guys have in the past and I can finally call it a day with it. =) im hoping!

your either making it or your not.... whats your boost gauge read? change your sparkies to .8mm gapped plugs.. that shud stop the miss firing. check engine lite.. did u check to see all sensors are connected? oil, cat sensor , maf

the car was only tuned for cams. the boost was on 4-5 psi and it worked perfectly. Once I upped it... it hammers pretty hard but ends up with these minor problems. the sluggish driving occurs ONLY in the wet regardless im on 5 psi or 7.. so still unsure as to what has caused this.

too be honest, there is no pod. I've left the factor airbox with the standard cross over. there is no pod or air intake on the turbo.should I get a pod so its not sucking in water? I had previously fit in cams that a mate didnt want no more. I installed it and then took it to a tunner to have it running , I had all the turbo conversion parts so I installed that too but its un tuned atm. it was runnin fine on 0.4 bar have upgraded fuel reg and sparkies.... im new to the turbo scene , can the intercooler suck in water? there seems to be some water in my front bumper just below the cooler? could that do it? otherwise maybe somehow turbo is sucking in water or hot air too much????? I have no clue, I can put the boost down to 0.4 and see if it runs normal?

hi guys my na converted ba is now running 7.25 psi... I upped the boost from 5 psi -0.4 to 0.5. since doing this my car now sometimes fluctuates in idle sometimes on reverse or sometimes when u slowdown at the lites quickly, and sometimes u need to press accelerator to start it.( I dont mind but would this be harmful ) THE car also has stage 2 cams tuned. in the rain its really sluggish unless its hit boost then it feels like its moving fast as it shud... but otherwise it moves slowly but brakes really quickly as if the a caliper is stuck or sumfin. this happens only in the rain? it just runs sh*t? I dont have a cold air intake on the turbo or a pod.... this sluggish feeling was there also when I had the heatshield on which I removed n it livened up the car could the car be taking in too much heat making it sluggish????? any ideas? what are your guys suggestions? any advice much appreciated

I accidently quoted you it was meant for the thread starter. the only way is you can pull it out, have a look, clean the blades up, its a mechanical device so any carbon buildup heat oil can cause it to get dirty and everything, it might just be something simple.. so dun run off and spend 1000 odd dollars like some ppl say you should if you have some technical experience pull it off and open it up give it a clean, check for damage slap it back on try again, change the oil and all do EVERYTHING yourself before u spend that money...researc research research about troubles and fixing turbos off the net, cause I know for sure , you'll take it there n your going to get charged hard. remember turbos arent something from another galaxy, its a mechanical part that takes year 10 students/sweat shop workers to build... spend some quality time and get into it.. u'll learn alot instead of chucking money straight away.

no. tunehouse was to scared to tune my turbo converted b/a... they didnt want to do the conversion nor tune it.. so theres no point taking your car to ppl like that. CV performance have the WORST customer service.. expect your car their for days, without anything happening. that's if they return your fone call.

how much boost are u running? how many kms has the turbo been on the motor. while u save up to get the core replaced or replace the turbo, maybe u cud lower the boost and try to initiate ways to prolong the turbo life.

post the results mate she's definately going to be more alive with the mods/tune!

thanks for the reply, yeah well 've got a garrett gt35r or sumfin my mates given me for bugger all , its in quite a good nick. it had an internal wastegate yet, where its positioned couldnt meet the clearance below the manifold as there was a plate that hits the actuator rod and stop it from being installed.. I changed the actuator rod but to no luck the flap is open now all the time not being able to hold boost. so the only option I have which I think is favorable is welding the flapper closed and removing the actuator out from the housing. install it. then purchase a tial 35-38mm? .. so I make a hole in the manifold, how big does the hole have to be? I can drill it and bore it... but does it have to be exactly 38mm? also have you guys had any trouble welding steel onto cast iron? was there a particular coil you guys used when welding? sounds like an interesting job, after you weld the pipe.. weld the flange on the other end of the pipe and run another pipe plumbed back into your exhaust? so that means cut another hole in the dump pipe? where the hell am I going to find such small piping? it would need bends? sorry for the questions just never done this before so first attempt

hi guys whats involved in installing a wastegate? I've read on the net, you can either put it on the dump pipe or manifold. have any of you guys put on an external yourself? im wanting to attempt to put an external on my car, but im not sure how to run the lines or if its a quite a big job.

Hi Guys how do you change the fuel regulator on a ford ba/bf?

yeah its rubbish, theres no space to go from underneath I tried it on ramps no luck. worst part is taking off that sensor clip, then I guess I can look for some short wrenchers to get in there turning lil bit at a time..

hi guys I did the fittings but theres a oil leak now running down to the sump what are some good ideas on how to re remove the fittings/collar from the block?. I have tightened everything but will need to remove it all put some thread sealant and do it all over again. its just so difficult getting a spanner underneath in the small section any ideas / tips/ tricks you guys can tell me on how I can get it all opened up again without me braking my hand inside! lol

so if I wanted to make the car dead silent, without the high SPOOL NOISE and the futter. I would a ) upgrade the bov to a aftermarket one with an adjustable spring ( im thinking gfb stealth bov? )and isntead of running the pod strait from the turbo enclose it in a box. that would help sounding it dead quiet? is this correct? no offense to the guys that wanna have the whooooshhh sounds n stuff ! =)

hey guys thanks for the replys. I checked it out today, doing quite a few tests it had seemed that the oil wasn't flowing correctly into the sump. we undid the drain hose ( its quite long ) and re angled it so it has a direct downward slant towards the sump, pulled it off the sump to see if it flowed correctly and it worked while the car was started. a little bit of oil seeped everywhere but we refilled it. IM hoping this was the problem as michael has stated above as it was previously blocked. UNFORTUNATELY my mate whos a toyota mechanic didnt quite tap the sump correctly and will need to be done again as the drain hose is quite loose =( I'll be drilling it again, put the tap on the drill with some wd40/tap fluid and re-tap it very slowly. then insert the helicoil and it should hold with the new thread. will use alot of grease for the shavings!. I hope it isnt a rebuild , if it is, I'll just have to put it on hold till I can buy turbo.

that's exactly what its doing OHH sh*t, hope it hasnt blown the seals and its just an overlapse of oil inside the turbo cause the drain pipe has a loop in it, so its not flowing into the sump correctly. can it blow the seals on idle? worst option would be to replace the turbo or can I tear open the turbo and have a go at doin the seals? =) =( ...... if so that'd be a real headache to slap on a new turbo.

there is an oil feed leak but that's dropping on the passenger side. one of the adaptors musnt be tightened correctly off the pressure sensor so theres a small leak... would you know what size drill bit I would need? shud I just get a nut that fits the sensor, drill the hole and using a mig , just weld it on ? and that's it? is there a certain depth I need to chase for the sensor to read the exhaust gas's?

yeah had a look this morning , seems that the levels are fine, I dont think its water vapour as if it would steam it would clear the air really quickly. but this smoke lingers and then slowly gets thinner and thinner. so I think its oil, also saw that the drain hose has a loop so it might not be having a right flow into the sump.. hopefully that's it =)

HI Guys, not sure if this is the right place to post but I have a major problem with my ford ba n/a. Anyway, we've been doing a conversion for a ford ba n/a we had completed the conversion, and only thing left was the dump pipe to be made up by the exhaust place. before the car had the exhaust it would start, and idle normal. the dump pipe was completed today ( the exhaust guy forgot to make a thread for the O2 sensor) so now I have a dump pipe made with no thread to fit the O2 sensor. but the problem is the car when you start it within couple of minutes is chucking out white thick smoke. it pretty much can cover the street!!! im not sure what happened because the car was never driven at all!!. so here are what the possible problems I think it might be and need advice/soloutions if possible * O2 sensor was not connected and dump pipe was made without thread so I cant fit it on have to make one or something could that cause white smoke? * Turbo is sh*tted? and need to purchase a new turbo? * headgasket is screwed? how do I check this? car wasnt even driven???!?? just mostly idled. * boost leak? its really worrying me as this has really made me stress. it only started smoking once the dump pipe was on but the car was driven from exhaust shop maybe 2 metres down the road then it started smoking huge smounts of smoke. its white. any ideas guys?

ive p.med him.. hopefully he comes through so I can chuck the std cross over at my neighbour thanks guys