matt036

Yeah well its still drivable as is so im going to get the actuator then save up for the tune and get it all redone and hopefully that's the end of my problem.

No worries, thanks for input fellas.

By 2 holes I mean when the flap was shut, the rod on the actuator had to be pulled 2 hole widths from home to reach the arm and there for was putting to much preload on actuator and was causing major overboost. So they cut the arm and welded it back in line with the rod hole when it was home again. Its not an adjustable actuator either its standard just a straight rod into the diaphram. If that makes more sense. Its just odd that it was fine for the first couple weeks now gone to sh1t. But im thinking of just buying a new actuator maybe like a 11.8psi off of sonic and see how it goes. Will I need a retune do you rekon or not? Also im guessing ever who did the original porting didn't set the arm in the right spot.

Yeah well they told me to do that this morning which I did so the solonoids been cleaned out and the hoses are all tight. All hoses on the cooler system are tight as ive had most of the intercooler system apart recently, so I know they're all tight.

Just thought I'd chuck up a thread to see if anyone has had anything like this occur or maybe able to shed some light. At the end of last month I had my car tuned and it was running 14psi when it made boost then creeped to 16psi by about 6k, which it did in almost every gear. (didnt really load it up in 5th or 6th so could say what it did there.) Now for the first week or 2 it ran great making boost and had no issues. So for the last few days though ive noticed when loading up in 3rd of 4th its not making boost. For instance yesterday we took it for a drive and in 3rd at around 3100rpm it made about 12psi then at around 4k jumped to around 16 and then by 6k it had crept to 18psi. In 4th at 3k it made 7psi held that till about 4k then it crept to about 14psi then at 5k crept up to 16psi then by 6k it had gone up to 19psi. Now I have had the larger flapper and port mod done but im not 100% on how good it was done as I bought it already done off someone that said they had bought it done. Now when I got it the flap was catching to I had the disc and port machined to prevent that which it did and when I got the tune they had to pull the turbo off and adjust the arm as it was about 2 holes out on the actuator. I talked to my tuner this morning who said that the flap it probably not sealing in some way and is causing it and that I should get another housing and get it done by a reputable shop. Although I find it strange that in 1st and 2nd gear it pulls boost like normal and that it was fine for the first week or so and now has gone to sh1t. I am also still running the standard acuator and not sure if that would have anything to do with it. If anyone would have info on this id be glad to hear what you may think. Cheers,

Well as it was a nation wide recall on the sunroofs by hollandia themselves, there sunroofs were fitted to a heap of different cars and these were all recalled by the different makes say Ford and Holden. You can go 2 ways about doing it, go through your ford dealer or a company that is a distributor for hollandia sunroofs. You can also check by ringing ford to see whether its done or say that prestige if there a hollandia supplier as they can check as well.

No its still going, did another one at work. As its a safety recall they don't end until all cars affected are fixed, where there are some recall's to say fix non safety issues that will have a time frame. Also the rear brake lines on the BA's weren't a recall they were a service campaign so if your car was being serviced by a dealer and when the warranty clerk does there check and it comes up they'll fix it.

http://youtu.be/X9GZBw63TdA

http://youtu.be/TOOA2ZhBIQY

Might be useful to anyone with an FG looking to upgrade. http://www.ebay.com....605576410399666

Here it is http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/59850-needing-confidence/page__p__932895__hl__turbo+timer__fromsearch__1#entry932895

You cam bypass the smart lock, as pazzo said there is a thread here somewhere on how to do it and ive done it and works perfectly and I can lock it with the remote. Just gotta install a change over relay on the wire to the bem module under the icc which stops the signal that turns your car off when you remotely lock it.

I know this is an old topic but does anyone know if the .7 cover makes the turbo any more laggier than the .5 and if so by how much. Just wondering as I can get hold of one if I want it and im wondering if its worth doing that's all. Any feedback would be great.

But its not the pcm that has anything to do with memory retention, its bem module (underneath the icc) that retains the cars code information and when its right (as in keys and everything is coded properly) it tells the pcm to start. Not the other way around. If its lost code then that would explain why it won't start.

Ive heard (working in a ford dealership) that if they sit for a long enough period of time without a battery the bem resets itself and will show code on the icc, which means taking it to a ford dealership and having the keys and module reset or else it will never work.

Pretty sure if you hit a decent pot hole with those rims with the 2 halves between the spokes it would be game over, super buckled rim as there is no structural support there at all.

Well a couple mates and I play on PC online and with 3 of us we made it to 30 and took about 3 or so hours to. God knows how many kills or points, was just happy to finally crack 30.

Just wondering if you managed to have any resolution to this issue or found a fix for it? After a recent happy laps session of good flogging mines developed a whine as well and im thinkin mine maybe coming from between the manifold to turbo. All bolts on dump and manifold are tight so that's why im wondering if you managed to have any luck?

Yeah that's right, unless its a wagon (which you can buy a new ignition switch separate) you have to replace the whole steering column just to get a new ignition barrel. Its absolute crap but the next best bet would be finding a good one off of a wreck cause they do come apart; Ford just chose not to sell them separate to make more money when they did go I guess and I know this cause I work in parts for Ford..........'sigh'

I got the Bosch 42lb's in my BA mk2 and I just cracked 326rwkw with them and they still had some left. But just depends on how much further past that you will wanna go.

Mine gradually got worse. When it first started there was slight rattle but still went like hell, but over a few months the noise was on and off then finally it just starting getting worse and worse and finally what I explained in my previous post but as XF falcon did I just put a whole new exhaust on and got a tune much better now haha

I had a similar rattle, was annoying as hell loud as and embarrassing. I read up on here and thought it was the heat shield so I pulled it all off but that only made it worse. Turns out the cat had collapsed and the noise was the insides rattling around similar to that sound. My car also lost about 4 psi as well due to it which would explain it not running as crisp so id say it could be your cat, just my opinion though as it sounds like everything that happened to mine.

I had them on my old EL falcon, didnt think they were to bad for braking but dusty as all hell. I mean after washing the car and wheel and being driven round for two days the rims were back to being as black as the ace of spades. This was just my experience others may differ though.

If you would like, post up or pm me the vin and ill check it out at work tomorrow and ill be able to tell you what its got in it.

Ive got a exedy HD clutch (would have preferred a malwood but at the time couldn't stretch my money that far) and I'm running 285rwkw and it cops a bit of a flogging. Clutch dumps and also go through the gears pretty quick with the the occasional kick and not a single bit of slip so far, the tyres give out before anything. But that's just my opinion on it and for its price (I only paid $800 for a full kit) its not a bad bit of kit. Once I start going up in power it will be interesting to see how long it will hold for.